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Has anyone done one yet? I really like this nice compact one and even did a re-mix of the bottom bracket to use as a top bracket to clear the skates. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1664735 Unfortunately (before printing them out) I realized that the layer fans would hit the sides with such a tight...

Well, in my case at least, the directions weren't done yet.

Just a note on this. If you do the same, make sure you get a high-quality MOSFET-based SSR. Don't buy a Fotek or SHZE. They have huge internal resistance and will heat up and fail, even with a large heatsink, thermal paste and good airflow. When they fail, they fail in the "on" state and c...

I would look at your retraction settings.

My LCD has the blue PCB and I made the same mistake. The LCD end is keyed, and I followed the silkscreen on the adapter board end. With the blue LCD board, the LCD didn't even illuminate.

Once I flipped the cable orientation (opposite of the silkscreen) on the adapter end, my LCD worked fine.

You need to extract all of the files from the .zip file and then point to them in the arduino IDE. It looks like you're trying to run against the .zip file itself. C:\Users\AppData\Local\Temp\Temp1_Firmware-master.zip\Firmware-master\Repetier Firmware\Repetier\Repetier.ino:143:22: fatal error: Repet...

The extruder has a software safety lock. It will only run if the hot end is up to temp.

I fixed this problem by replacing the stock power supply with a 600W 24V supply which I turned down to 20V, a 12V regulator to power everything but the bed and a solid-state relay to switch the 20V going to the bed. It heats up nice and fast now. It does use about 7 more watts of power at idle thoug...

I ended up getting some longer screws for mine and screwing them in further to make sure they were vertical.

According to the assembly manual, those should go right on top of the base plate. I think it works better to put a #6 washer between them and the base plate. You can then snug the screws down enough that the clips won't rotate if you ever take the bed assembly out and there's still plenty of tension...

I finally got to try this out. It works great. My first layer is much better now.

Thanks for the info. I read somewhere else that the Onyx was around 1.2 ohms.

I just measured mine and it's 0.92 ohm, much lower than I was expecting.

I almost always print ABS and the current heating time is very slow. There's quite a bit of room in the base. I think I could cram another power supply of similar size in there. I was thinking of something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1PRE60/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=...

What's the real fix here? A 24v supply for the Onyx and some sort of FET to switch it?
The bed heating seems pretty pathetic.

Edit: It looks like I need to buy a 24V 20A power supply and a solid state relay, put it all in the base controlled by the current bed heater wires.

I built the latest SeeMeCNC repetier firmware with machine type set to 5 for a Max V3.

The rotary knob direction is correct for entering numerical values, but backwards for menu navigation.

To fix that, open ui.h, and on line 1102, change the definition for UI_INVERT_MENU_DIRECTION from 1 to 0

Download master.zip and edit the config.h file. Set the machine type to 5 as noted in the comments.

I've got my V3 up and running, but I haven't been able to use my customary ABS settings.

It seems the bed will never hit 100C with the stock power setup. At around 96-97 degrees it slows to a stop.

Is this correct or do I possibly have a bad connection somewhere?

Mine is up and printing now. I haven't managed to get "Full auto calibration" from the control panel to complete. I'm wondering if my accelerometer is connected right because I've tried autocal three times and the rambo seems to crash part way through (at different points). I had to power ...

Yes, this text was added to the online manual in the last day or so: IF YOUR END STOP SWITCHES COME WITH A SMALL ACTUATING LEVER, CAREFULLY REMOVE IT. IF YOU DON'T, YOU WON'T FIND OUT WHY UNTIL YOU DISCOVER THAT ALL THREE END-STOP SWITCHES ARE HELD CLOSED AGAINST THE TOP BASE PLATE. DON'T ASK HOW I ...

The photos of the limit switches in the current documentation are wrong. You need to remove the metal lever from the switch or it will show the carriage permanently at the limit. It's a real pain to get at them after the printer is fully assembled. I put my printer together, fired it up and all thre...

Mine's ready for firmware load now, but I haven't installed the Bowden tube yet. All other assembly is done. Unfortunately, a screwdriver rolled off the top and broke my build plate, so I'm using a craft mirror until a replacement arrives. I tried attaching a photo, but apparently that doesn't work ...

I just got a shipping notification.

I'm not sure where you were looking but both versions have listed Sept 6 as the "start shipping" date since they were first put up. https://www.seemecnc.com/collections/diy-3d-printer-kits/products/rostock-max-v3-desktop-3d-printer-diy-kit linked from the home page https://www.seemecnc.com...

I'm on the list also. Looking forward to joining the delta family. I was refreshing the we site waiting for orders go to live. SeeMeCNC was good enough to retro-actively apply John's discount code after he posted it.