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Thanks for the advice. What sort of diodes do you recommend?

It looks like you robbed an octopus tank!

I guess I'll find out after I have everything wired up. I think the 350W supply will make some gains vs. the old Viotek (450W) because it has screw terminals, rather than skinny little 18-gauge wires. I can run 12-gauge straight to the Onyx and SSR. Also, as dc42 points out, they have trim pots that...

I agree, I would put an SSR in the hot side of the bed circuit. I thought so. If the bed has +12V of potential even when the heater is supposed to be off, it's one more way for a short circuit to make something bad happen. Do you have the option of turning up the power supply voltage a bit? it depe...

Can you show us a photo?

A dead-time heat manager is implemented in Repetier . It takes only two variables, which effectively describe the thermal inertia of the system. Overshoot is minimized or eliminated, and there's no oscillation around the set temp. MeasureDeadtime.png The idea is to figure out the "knee" of...

By heat bed, do you mean just the black Onyx PCB, or do you mean the glass disc that's clamped to it?

Added info on adjusting current and max PWM. Added advice to jog the effector down to ~Z=3, so you get the effect of whatever downwash is happening from the cooling fan(s).

Added some disclaimers about thermal runaway, and made the formatting nicer.

rurwin, that is pretty cool. I have seen top fuel cars in action. Quite impressive. Must have burned through some expensive hardware getting all that tuned.

So, you can use a 24V supply with a 12V onyx without anything catching fire?

Then, I suppose a breaker on the hot side. I can get a 24VDC power supply... but then I have two printers, so I would need two of them. I already bought two 350W "LED" power supplies. Would also need two 24V Onyxes, and two 24-12V step-down converters. It would also make my standby wattage...

E-1 is not the right code. Try P0/P1. Documentation here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M303:_Run_PID_tuning

If you have any trouble doing PID tuning, try this: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=11440

Here's a question that keeps bothering me. Why is it "right" to put the SSR on the ground side of the circuit, and "wrong" to put it on the hot side? Isn't it safer to gate the hot side? BTW, I fired up the Onyx with this SSR. It took about 20 minutes to get from room temp to 75C...

Introduction =========================================== PID auto-tuning algorithms on various controllers can be annoying. I got tired of having to wait for them, only to see results that oscillated rather than being steady (especially during a print), so over time I learned how to do it myself. W...

In KISSlicer, I would increase the "skin thickness."

Try Step 1 of my delta arm length calibration routine: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1439048 It will help you get the filament extrusion rate dialed in perfectly. Do the rest of the calibration as well, if you want. The extrusion rate is particularly important because you do NOT want to deposit e...

Also, is this 25-amp DC breaker good enough? https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Connect-Circuit/dp/B000K2IKDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484282450&sr=8-1&keywords=panel%2Bmount%2Bcircuit%2Bbreaker&th=1 I used an online calculator to figure out that 24V @ 1.1 ohms is a little over 2...

Does this look right? I'm using the old 450W Viotek power supply, using the SSR to bypass the MOSFET on the controller because the plug gets hot. I'm using three each of the + and - wires from the PSU. 20170112_174047.jpg PSU +12V to Onyx + through a wire nut Onyx - to SSR + SSR - to PSU Ground Is t...

That much I know, but then I have to jacket them somehow (heat shrink) or they will tend to unravel. I have had a little success getting the insulation to stick together with a heat gun. It's just that it seems easier to buy it pre-done. More flexible as well, as I wouldn't have to cover most of it ...

Slightly offtopic, but do you know if anyone is working on an arm solution for "desk lamp" type articulated robots, like this one?

I got this stuff because it was two-conductor "zip wire," and I wouldn't have to use heat shrink to keep the wires together. What I would really like is 12-gauge (or lower) twisted pair. I think that would yield less EM noise, particularly when it's running in PID mode (sustaining heat by ...

I've been trying to get one of these but I'm not willing to pay and wait for 6+ months. I have a delta with an effector mounted extruder I'd love to try thin on. If anyone has one they'd like to lend or sell, let me know! I will eventually have time to mess with it, when other tasks calm down. If I...

I got mine a couple weeks ago. There is no power switch (yeah...), the cooling fan roars even when none of the heaters are on, and it doesn't work with KISSlicer. I've tossed it into a corner and don't know when I'll have time to mess with it. The unnecessarily loud cooling fan is putting me off the...

Looks real nice!

Is there a way you guys could use opto-isolators, or some other trick, to make it so that we can hot-swap a hot end? If I do that now, I run the risk of burning out the thermistor port. Would be nice if we could do this for manual work (swap hot end with probe, swap hot end with other hot end), as w...