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And what are you naming this? My suggestion is XXXtruder :) Although, it is a hot-end and not an extruder. You need to develop that next! You ought to adapt your threaded bowden concept to the aluminum piece in the EZStruder. Wouldn't he need to put reverse threads on one end of the Bowden tube oth...

Thanks for the info guys! I have ordered the heater Eaglezsoar recommended. I do have another question:

Do I need to change the wiring for the 40W heater, or is the stock wiring good enough for this heater?

Thanks!

Hi Eaglezsoar, Ebay is the best place to find them I will provide a link for the 6mm x 30mm you can check the US vendors and search for the heater cartridge 6mm x 20mm http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reprap-12V-40W-Ceramic-Cartridge-Heater-6-30-mm-For-3D-Printer-Prusa-Mendel-/221388116379?pt=LH_DefaultDoma...

Hi Eaglezsoar,

Is there a specific size or shape that I need to purchase? I want to get one that fits. Does it slot into the hole for the resistors, and what holds it in place? It sounds like a good option.

It sounds like a short in the bed heater wiring is resetting the power supply or the power supply is defective and when the bed starts pulling a lot of current it dies and resets itself.

It looks like for some gear types the program will output STL files. I assume these can just be sliced and output to a 3D printer. The FAQ mentions the STL output. I see from their discussion forum that a few months back they were testing Bevel gears, which is what I would be most interested in.

Update: I checked the hot end with a multimeter and found that across the resistors I see 7.9 Ohms, which is slightly WRONG. I then dismantled the hot end for a closer look. I see that my High-Temp "Copper" RTV was pretty crunchy on one side, and the other side it was somewhat more flexibl...

Are you sure you want to leave an opening for the competition to call it "DerpLit"?

Does the program you created the model with have an output option to print drawing files? This is fairly common.

I have more information now. I was going to do the print from SD as you suggested, but when I got it all ready to go I noticed that there was a huge blob of extruded plastic on the nozzle of the extruder. I thought maybe a clog or a jam was the problem, so I fired it up to get the ABS off and the te...

I'm really not doing any pausing between layers. I am trying to get really solid layer adhesion for strength, so I am running as hot as I can and accepting the stringing that comes from the high temp. So that's not it. The thing is that I previously ran the same job with no issues, and it completed ...

I was printing a large print and there was about an hour left to go when I went to sleep. When I woke up at 6:30AM to go to work, I could hear the printer still working and I went to see what was happening. When I checked, there were just over 5 minutes left in the job. Huh? 7 hours before, there wa...

Similarly, where do you tell the software the calibration setting? If you set it for 190 and it reads 180, where do you say: "Hey Rostock, you're off by 10 degrees!"?

In Slic3r you need to turn on the "brim" settings and give it a nice fat brim.

The brim it like the brim of a hat. It makes the contact area as big as you want at the bottom layer(s). You trim it off the perimeter when done.

Do you have shots of your first layer? Getting a look at what's happening will greatly help. Don't feel nooby, I know your pain! from what he's saying there is no first layer... I've seen it a couple times myself, the filament just balls into a mass at the nozzle Guanu Perhaps this is a case of bad...

I can certainly try that. It makes sense that it should keep some material under the new layer that way. Thanks. Another question I have is if the print speed or temperature would have an effect? It may be hotter is worse because the material sags, or perhaps hotter is better because the material is...

Hi guys, I need some tips for getting better bridging with PLA prints. I have a cylindrical object with a couple of diameter changes in the outside that I am having problems with. The shoulders are about 2mm wide, and when the printer prints the first layer of the overhang, it kind of prints it alon...

The popping and smoke (it's actually steam) aware a sign of wet, possibly bad filament. A lot of cheap PLA is crap, and unless it's changed I wouldn't recommend the SeeMeCNC PLA either. You shouldn't see a significant drop in temperature when you are printing, are you sure it's the PLA running thro...

Sputtering and popping, from what I've seen in these forums over a long period of time is primarily due to humidity. I'm not sure of your temps - and perhaps your environment is a bit cold. Some have stuck their filament in the oven for a while at low temps and others have come up with interesting ...

Can you see through the hole in the nozzle? Maybe a metal filing or some debris is clogging the nozzle?

So I have finally gotten my RmaxV2 up and running. I was able to get the Peek and Layer fans to print with decent quality in ABS right out of the box. I was very pleased with everything except I have an Onyx V3 with the dreaded "can't reach 90 degrees" issue, in spite of the 725W power sup...

Can anyone explain why there are 12 holes in the bed and 6 on the snowflake? If they just make the 6 proper holes in the bed there would be no way for the person making the countersinks to mess up and get the wrong ones.

This afternoon I began the last phase of my V2 assembly, and I installed the belts. I went to install the end effector and arms and when I did that I discovered that my Z cheapskate was very hard to move compared to X and Y. I checked and rechecked the belt for rubs and interference and eventually I...

The 22ga wires go to the EZstruder, don't they? In that case you will be splicing them to the wire that comes off the extruder stepper, which is pretty long. You should be able to reach the controller board with the added length of the extruder wiring added to the upper ends of the wires.

I noticed last night that the top and bottom of my base assembly is not 100% perfectly mated to the vertical support bits. I think what is happening is that there are small variances in the height of the laser cut parts so some of them might be a tiny amount taller than the others. What I saw was th...