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It's set that way because when you only have 1 extruder, we don't want any motor current going to the 2nd (an nonexistent) extruder

The values are out of 255. I think the rambo has 2amp stepper drivers so the running 130 for the extruder would be:
2000mah * 130/255 = 1020 mah = 1.02 amps

The new motors run lower current

The line you posted is the catchall in case motor current doesn't get defined by your printer. The line you are looking for is down in the Rostock V3 printer definition (line 438 in current firmware). The last line listed below: #elif PRINTER == 5 // Rostock MAX v3 #define FAN_BOARD_PIN 6 //Cooling ...

Arduino complains about the ram usage because the amount used is above what it's default warning level is set at. It still works fine, we're not stepping on invalid memory. If you're having problems connecting to it after flashing it, please post what your log looks like when flashing and connecting...

I don't see anything wrong in that log. Looks like both probe taps at both points were an acceptable tolerance and it set the horizontal radius. Try running G29 and see if it completes successfully.

What is your motor current set at? Line 438 or so in Configuration.h. Should look something like this:

The Offset error you are getting means your endstops are requiring too much offset. Make sure the screws coming out the top of your carriages are approximately the same length and try running G29 again

Welcome to the club

1) Sounds like your whip wiring isn't quite right. The heat sink fan is supposed to be on all the time, but the three part fans only turn on when the rambo lights them up. If you see no RED leds on your hot end, you shouldn't have heat or running part fans. If the part fans are running and the heats...

Is this on a printer that was working and it suddenly started doing this, or is this a problem you encountered on the way to getting your printer working for the first time? When it's plugged in to the hot end and you power the machine on, does the fan on the hot end spin up? Is there a blue LED on ...

Glad to hear it's working!

Should have been a little more clear about my intent. I need to be able to also print support material with higher temp materials. To my understanding this rules out the Y adapter as the hot end would have to cool and heat between filaments. I use Simplify 3D, to my knowledge it handles dual extrud...

It could also be your extruder motor getting to hot and making the filament pliable. Once that starts it'll grind away and not pass any more filament sometimes. Have you checked the temperature of the stepper motor on your extruder when this happens? Maybe the motor current it too high.

Dual Extrusion on the Rostock w/ the kit from SeeMeCNC is pretty good. Fair warning: There's a known bug in the firmware that shows up every once it a while causing it to throw a random tool change and switch extruders. The bug only happens when the printer is connected via USB, so on long (or criti...

The problem is that the firmware is programmed specifically to work with the HE280 accelerometer board. It has it's own set of commands it fires off to initialize, set sensitivity, etc. It's also worth noting that when probing, the HE280 signals a bed hit over another wire (blue wire going to PS ON ...

That's right

Run DC42's delta calibration wizard and it'll even right out. Follow instructions here:
https://www.seemecnc.com/pages/delta-calibration-wizard

You have two options. If you want to keep both power supplies, you can just run the Xbox power supply directly to the bed input. It won't draw anything unless the mosfet for the bed is turned on by the mini rambo. If you wan to run everything off the Xbox power supply, you need to T it and run one s...

Do you have a barrel fan blocker installed in your hotend? It's the little black clip that keeps air from the heatsink cooling fan from hitting your heater block. If you don't have one, you can buy one from seemecnc (https://www.seemecnc.com/products/barrel-fan-blocker) or print one (https://www.see...

You'll want the power supply from the xbox 360. Cut the end off and park the wires right in the screw terminals for the heated bed input on the mini rambo. After that you just need to wire up the heated bed from an Orion and change HAVE_HEATED_BED from a 0 to a 1 under the H2 section of the firmeware.

Take it from the firmware you used to flash it

I hear Yosemite Sam's voice whenever I see Gene speaking ...

Your whip is wired incorrectly. If all the colors look like they are in the right order, you probably have them in the connector backwards. Double check the orientation of the connector and reverse all the wires. Willing to bet this will fix your problem

I'm saying this is a way to find out if the I2C wires in the whip are wired incorrectly.