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Indeed! I found out over at reprap forums that the address needs a left bit shift in order to work properly. Here's the code I am using now: HAL::i2cInit(100000L); HAL::i2cStartWait(4 << 1); HAL::i2cWrite('a'); HAL::i2cStop(); Right now I'm trying to figure out how to get a float converted to a stri...

This is the kind of functionality I'm getting at. Right now the actions are soley controlled by the external arduino though..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4f7OIhouQg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2 Says it has spi pins. Looking at the RAMBO schematic at the same link tells me that that there are dedicated SDA/SCL pins for the Rambo's I2C port which are not shared with the SPI or EXT headers. I also see 10K pullups on both lines. Now whether the I2C code in th...

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2 Says it has spi pins. The SPI is used by the LCD though. I'm messing around with the code trying to get something to output. In the printer.cpp file at the bottom of the setup method I have: HAL::i2cStartWait(4+I2C_WRITE); HAL::i2cWrite('a'); HAL::i2cStop(); When I...

Thanks, I've already gotten two arduinos talking and have the setup complete, I'm just not sure where in the Repetier firmware to put the communication code? I see it already has a class involving i2c, but I can't find how to use it successfully. Do I just import my own library and use that instead...

Thanks, I've already gotten two arduinos talking and have the setup complete, I'm just not sure where in the Repetier firmware to put the communication code? I see it already has a class involving i2c, but I can't find how to use it successfully. Do I just import my own library and use that instead ...

I'm looking for a way to connect the RAMBO to another arduino via the i2c connection. I'm going through the source code but can't find any good examples of opening up a simple connection and writing strings out. Does anyone know where I can find some sample code on creating some methods like this?

Ah so it's the same procedure in the manual, cool I'm done up to that step.

For step 5, when I move the nozzle to the opposite end of tower, the nozzle lifts from the bed. The instructions say to adjust the end stops. I'm guessing this means the two towers closest to the nozzle and not the far one?

Okay, I'm going to suggest what I remember my steps for resolving this were: 1) set the 0,0 point at your desired height (paper thickness). 2) Set all three tower points at the same height. This should now mean the plane is level? Not necessarily. 3) Move the hot end from A tower position and 0,0, ...

Well that stinks.. I saw this video and got excited seeing I built my printer last year: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-92PSNINO0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Uploaded the new firmware, calibrating now to see if anything changed for me.

I'm having a bad time getting the bed calibrated on my max v2. Following the manual, at each of the pillars the nozzle is the same distance from the bed. When printing a test circle at each of the pillars the filament is being pressed into the bed correctly, but between the pillars either it's too c...

There are holes in the frame to access all 4 screws that hold the motor in place. Undo those, pull the motor off, install the dampers and reinstall it.

I have the dampers on my motors and the pads under the base.

You shouldn't have to take the whole printer apart to install the dampers. I would highly recommend them also, they make the printer much quieter.

Took the .dxf file and made the first motor mount:
http://repables.com/r/332" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Not sure why the preview is messed up, but if you go to the 3d view you can see it fine. I'll cut the rest up in the next couple of days.

I am starting to upgrade to a dual extruder. When looking for a way to mount the second ezstruder to the top, I saw on seemecnc's website: http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-accesories/products/add-a-ezstruder" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; It says it's for version 1 onl...

Have you calibrated it yet? Have you moved anything on it since you calibrated yet?

Picked up a few sticks of disappearing purple glue today. Put a few layers down on the glass and started my print. Came back and it was next to impossible to get the print off the bed! The opposite problem haha! If I print farther away from the bed for the first layer would I get less sticking? Or i...

Awesome thanks, got a 12" x 24" x .03" sheet ordered from amazon, cut it in half then in circles

Yes I suppose this reel doesn't want to stick well. I'm interested in getting a sheet of PEI, would the .03" 12"x12" suffice?

Ya it's currently lifting around 2mm, the part just really doesn't have any adhesion with this reel of filament I'm using, others have been fine.

Also, is the .03" thick stuff recommended or is the .09 better somehow?

How much horizontal force can a printing piece take before it pops off mid print? I have issues with some rolls of filament having a nice first layer but only take a pound of pressure to break the PLA off the bed at 60 degrees. On taller pieces if the nozzle catches on anything it rips the print off...

I am printing directly on glass cleaned with soap and water. The prints are coming out fine now, I tried something larger but the print broke off the bed. I've noticed it doesn't take much force to separate the print from the bed at 60 degrees. I'm going to try a PVA glue mix, any thoughts on using ...

There is a setting in the configuration.h file to disable the heatbed, just set it to 0.

Hm not sure what happened with that image. Anyways, been messing around with settings. Here's the hollow pyramid, looks like I need to dial in my retraction settings a bit more. I upped the temperature to 210 in order to get things to stick without breaking off. Retraction is at 7mm at 55mm/s (anyth...

lol 120mm/s infill? I'm sitting around 60, i've been bumping things up slowly, apparently too slowly.

I'll get a thermocouple and check out my temps