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Teflon is a brand-name for PTFE. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene The short answer is it doesn't actually melt until 327 C, but starts to degrade above 260 C. Keep your pet birds away from your printer meltdowns...apparently they're very sensitive to the degradation by-products.

johnoly99 wrote:Oh tim, you noticed our complaint dept. eh?

Bowden extruder, but using our "Steve's extruder" with a modification to use push-to-connect fittings

Which implies that eventually you will be able to offer a Bowden upgrade for any Steve's extruder, no matter what printer it's on?

As a concept, it has a lot of cool factor.

What are the pros/cons of this kind of 3-point positioning system compared to the more traditional XYZ approach?

Straight out of the H1-1 printer kit description: http://shop.seemecnc.com/H-11-3D-Printer-Kit-71698.htm We are also bringing you another first in the 3d printing world, a hot-end that can use either 1.75 OR 3mm filament! We send you the teflon liner to set it up either way, and simply unscrewing th...

I used lead free solder which in theory only melts at 280 and more. Most of your lead-free solders are going to melt in the neighborhood of 220 C. 60/40 lead solder melts around 190 C, so it is better than that. 10/90 solder (90% lead) should get you up to that 280 C temperature, if you can still f...

The math isn't beyond me, but it'll be easier to just do empirical testing to calibrate the numbers for the thermal mass of a particular setup. All the software needs to know is what the temperature/time curve is supposed to look like when the heater is on. If the thermistor isn't seeing the tempera...

Very useful as an intro, as I haven't gotten to that part yet. Wouldn't wire strippers work even better than a knife for removing silicone from wire? I'll be using ramps electronics, so I would think that a thermistor physically coming loose (unexpected sudden drop in temperature) would be detectabl...

It's a #4 sheetmetal screw with a #4 washer. You should have plenty of both in the kit.

That's ONLY a logic interface board, it's incapable of driving any kind of motor directly. The separate drivers for each motor are not included and need to be purchased to have a working solution.

For the H1-1, the only nuts used on the table assemblies are the captive locknuts for the adjustment bolts and the table attachment bolts. Everything else is screws. I just built it myself the other day. Don't forget the #4 washers also get used on both sides of each bearing...I was half-done before...

Well, there's the rout 'n twist that's in your store, but that's big bucks. Maybe a version of that cheap enough for hobby buyers?

A home filament extruder?

Or skip that and make a printer extruder designed to take cheap plastic pellets directly?

If you want to make your own puller, here's one way to do it:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-a ... /?ALLSTEPS

A section on mounting options/requirements for the heat bed.

It occurs to me that your cheap rods might be swappable for the original 12" rods used in the base. A subtle bend would be far less critical there, especially in the horizontal axis, and nuts are only used near the ends of those rods. As for online sources, I'd ask Seemecnc first. I don't see i...

Experimenting with the design is part of the fun for some people. So try it if you want to! Only minus I can think of is that your max build height will be reduced by however far you extend it. But I don't think the distance from the carriage had anything to do with this particular meltdown. From th...

The danger of prying between gear and motor is that the stress on the bearing/internals of the motor risks damage. However, it's better than the hammer and punch approach that you might think of....that's almost guaranteed to hurt a small motor like this. I've not seen an automotive puller that woul...

I just received my kit today and counted everything into spare plastic parts boxes for the build. No mystery C-shaped object and no zip-ties of any size. Going off the parts lists, I have a few extras on all the sheetmetal screws, including a couple 1/2" screws that were in the 1" bag. A f...