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Alright guys, I just wanted to throw out there that I'm switching jobs and making a big move! I'm moving to Chattanooga, TN first off (March 1)...so anyone in the area...please hit me up, it would be cool to find local Rostock folks to chat with. Secondly, the job I'm moving for is a 3d printing spe...

Alright guys, I now can add to my list of official toys at my disposal and services I can offer folks. If anyone has any need for high quality prints out of high temp resistance, high impact resistance, clear materials, rubber materials, etc feel free to hit me up. I now have a commercial PolyJet pr...

Did Cope end up posting his changes/improvements to this somewhere? I'd like to see what he did before I print a version of this.

Perfect! Thanks, Fractured.

According to OpenBeam... "From a legal standpoint, Stratasys's patent specifically claims a Cartesian XY Gantry system in a heated build chamber (see Claim 1 on the linked patent). The heated build chamber is important because it allows prints to cool uniformly after the print is done to relief...

I've seen a couple of guys now that have mounted 2 mk2 heated beds vertically inside their chamber with their printer and had some pretty good results. They're just mounting them vertically to the sidewalls of the chamber and putting out ambient heat. As of now they've operated the mk2's separately ...

What time on Thursday night will this be? Cal time please.

Michael, I used the blind hole as per their directions and it has worked perfectly for me. I see no reason to do it any other way.

Yep, all the way from the Fort! I'll be there on behalf of this: http://www.thegigcity.com/startup-tracks/3d-printing/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; scouting talented companies that are a good fit for the accelerator, etc. I'm a specialist with them at this point.

I'll be there as well! Cope, what seminars are you speaking at? John, we should grab a drink one night while you're out there. I'll get in late on Thursday.

You beat me to it by about 30 seconds, congrats MHackney!

Just as a note Flateric, e3d's assembly instructions for their v5 actually note not to tighten the tip all the way to the heater block, but to leave a very tiny gap. See assembly instructions: http://files.e3d-online.com/Drawings/E3Dv5_Assembly_Manual.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);r...

That's pretty great. I should add a few to a gallery...I feel like I keep my fails as some sort of badge...

I had the top and bottom infill troubles when I first got my printer up and running. Edward dropped me a line that fixed that problem for good. Drop your top infill width below the width on for nozzle. For instance, I have a .5mm nozzle, the default is .55 layer width, I run it at around .45mm for t...

If you don't already have one, I highly recommend installing a PEEK fan. Adding a PEEK fan solved nearly every problem I was having with t-glase once I got a good spool of it. I ran into a very similar problem and the PEEK fan really fixed things up for me. If you already have one, another thing tha...

Eaglezsoar, you hit the nail on the head. I really had to pay close attention as I traversed the Z axis, but that's exactly what was happening. Thanks much!

Alright guys, I finally got around to installing my PEEK fan. I redid my PID tuning, etc. Everything works great...the hot end comes up to temp no problem, but then as soon as my print job starts, the hotend just dies. I do know that the temperature isn't just dropping and that the hot end is in fac...

Alright guys, the new spool from Taulman fixed my troubles. I'm loving this T-glase now that I have a good spool of it. Thank you guys for all the help!

Alright, I think I figured out what's wrong and it doesn't appear to be anything I'm doing. I paid much closer attention to a couple of print jobs in a row and found the same thing happening. It looks like I'll be waiting for the new spool of t-glase to arrive before I can do any t-glase printing. E...

Yeah, no, I'm sure it works. I just wish I could figure out what I'm doing wrong. I won't get back to the machine until tomorrow morning at this point, but when I do, I'll lower my temps, move my retraction settings a bit closer to yours and see what happens. If there's no success with that, I'm goi...

Yeah, the results I got on the part I have successfully printed were pretty sweet. [img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/56457674/Photo%20Oct%2009%2C%204%2003%2017%20PM.jpg[/img] I just can't seem to figure out how to get it more consistent. The problem seems to occur about 1/4 of the way through...

I see some of you have been having a bit of luck with the Taulman T-glase and had a few questions. I started playing with a roll of the 1.75mm t-glase about 2 days ago and have had minor success. My first trouble had to do with very inconsistent filament diameter, which taulman is making right by se...

If this is your first time turning heat on without having done PID tuning, I would recommend killing the heat once you know the hot end is indeed heating up as noted in the manual. If you do not turn it off, it will continue heating since there has not been PID tuning done yet to the point that you ...

chbeckdb9, open the manual put out by Gene, it's available in the downloads section on the seeme site. Gene covers basic settings to get you started on the rostock. I followed his settings to a T including the retract settings and have only modified slightly from there since. I've printed up to 17 p...

I've followed http://www.mydiycnc.com/ ever since they had a KickStarter quite some time ago. I've always thought it looked like a pretty decent solution at a good value. I would end up upgrading the spindle (I believe they actually sell an upgrade to a more "professional" spindle now)...w...