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I was not following the plot until I read "flanged bearings" then I said to myself "Oh Cool!"

Oh neat! a real tri-corder!

My pleasure, hope it helps

Yes, loosen or remove the LCD display, make sure your fan wires exit right or left so they won't get in the way of pushing through the opening from the outside in. The part has a small flange on the outside.
This did not cure the quit problem 100% but 99% is very nice!

S W E E T ! ...well done SeeMeCNC guys!

I will say it gain, spray wet glass, squeegee some HD alum foil to the glass, clip lead to hot end, clip lead to foil, plug one into Arduino digital inputs other to ground (are we hosed on the Rambo or does it have inputs?) ... do rough manual calibration to determine about where glass is so it can ...

First I checked my calendar to make sure I was not April 1, then reading about the extruder I thought "Oh hell just put a deep fryer on the bed and extrude dough, it's a Churru machine! Then I started thinking of the possibilities... I do need to design a CNC bed for our Hypertherm plasma torch...

Thanks, good to know. I may still have an issue with locking up.

Okay, don't have time to add the raised lettering, here is the STL file for the fan duct for the LCD door.

Have those that adopted to go with the tiny stick on heat sinks had good luck with them?

I feel your pain, Having gone through something similar I would point out two things in cooling; a fan without a shroud or duct of some kind in free air is very inefficient, lots of recirculation. Second that a fan within a mostly closed compartment will do a nice job of homogenizing the air within ...

Success! 8 hr print without a hitch. We'll call the new fan in the door plus wire arrangement the cure for our quitting problem. Previously I had taken all of the slack in the wires into the front bay with the board. I un-bundled each wire and pulled it back to whichever bay it originated in and coi...

Yes, as soon as I figure out how to put some raised letters on it =)

Solved? Hopeful. :geek: Made a cable to plug directly into the PS connectors, if it is on the fan is on. Designed and printed a fan housing for the door and the 40mm fan... fan_door1.jpg fan_door2.jpg The (4) #6 FH screws thread directly into the holes fan_door3.jpg fan_door4.jpg fan_door5.jpg

Oh so close
About 80%, it was going so well. Then the part got knocked loose and game over.
Will try again tomorrow.

Thanks Bubba, Went with the direct to PS option. Started with BIG fan and watched the Onyx temp slowly drop, pulled the plug on that one. Plugged in the 40mm one and just stuffed it in the rats nest of wires -hey I am testing! 50% into a 8 hr print and still going. Door wide open. I noticed it initi...

Hi Bubba, it's a new connector on board version 1.2

http://reprap.org/wiki/Rambo_v1.2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Nope, M42 does not address FAN 2

OK, wait, M42 P6 S255 turns on fan 2 at the same time as the PEEK fan?

You're a saint Gene, thanks!

Anybody know what M-code turns on FAN-2 on the RAMBO board? It's the one standalone connector below the top rail of connectors

Update: moved to kitchen, back on granite counter top instead of floor. Ran it with LCD door wide open, Printed last part to fail. Came out fine. I know, I know... bad girl I changed two things at once so three possibilities. 1- static on waxed hardwood floor. I think this is unlikely. 2- door open,...

Menards, don't know if they are local to you, Home Depot & Lowes carry some smaller sizes and might order for you, it would be an industrial builders supply. Sonotube brand comes in regular and HD. Randi is lets just say "frugal" and she'd make me weld up some scrap before paying $80 f...

Tinyhead, It's a brand new machine.John said it the latest boards incorporate a measure to prevent the prior static issue so that should be good.
Going to add a board fan and look at the wiring today.

Sandbags are good or fill milk jugs with stuff.