Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

I gave up at "It's impossible to put the correct EEPROMs in". To put it bluntly, he's a f*cking idiot and if he had comments enabled on that video, I'd tear a strip off that retarded hide of his. (Sorry for the slight hijack. ;) ) g. After watching the video, I realized that ALL my EEPROM...

Has anyone else had problems with Openbuilds.com? They messed up on my order and won't fix it. Their reply was reply was a generic sorry, please order again. I has cost me a 2 week wait (shipping time and customs) and having to reorder and pay again for some small stuff. Maybe they don't like Canadi...

S3D has the option to change many layer settings including layer height.

I am 45 min north of Peterborough

Yes, most Cartesian style printers use 2 Zmotors.

bot wrote: I designed custom clamps to hold all around the edges.

Did you want to share those clamps?

Welcome fellow Ontarioian

I tried 800mm (because i was curious) and just finished a 3 hr print and all went good using an sd card too. Go figure.

Looks good! What is the pink stuff wrapped around the nozzle base?

Second that!

Just go back to the manual and start the calibration from scratch . Be patient and do each step again. You may have missed something without realizing it as you said it worked OK before you attempted to calibrate again.

Ok, thanks

Will I have an issue if the cable length from the LCD to the Rambo is about 700mm long?

Thanks
Tony

No need for trick laser arms now

Cool upgrade. Coupon code?


edit: Sorry just re read it. longarm50

Ok, I guess I wasn't considering the full worst case scenario. I'll be quiet now

I am using the repetier 92.3 version that has the watchdog feature. If there was a runaway situation it simply decouples the power to the hotend. I tested it by pulling out the thermistor when it up to temp and sure enough it worked fine, powered off the hotend within a few seconds. Is not the same ...

I had the same problem. They would not send me a new power supply so I bought a new one and it has been ok. I still leave the covers off anyway.

Here is what I do. It is at the end of this post. You can just copy and paste the gcode.
Hope that helps.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=6789" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I know a lot of folks here have built their fair share of 3d related stuff. Does anyone know where I could source a heated bed 140ish mm x 140ish mm? and a build plate?

Thanks
Tony

KAS wrote:By increasing the resolution, I absolutely have an increase in the visual quality of the printed part.

Sounds good, what controller are you using?

Hi, I am building another printer and wondered if there is an advantage to using a 0.9 stepper instead of the 1.8 steppers I already have. I didn't know if I would notice a difference by using the Rambo (that I already have) or would I need to go to a faster card to see the advantage? Thanks in adva...

Eaglezsoar wrote:
Holy1, Could you post a picture of the Prusa I3 that you built and the approximate cost?

I am confused Eaglezsore. Did you mean this guy? >> briankb wrote:
I picked up a Prusa i3 kit for $300 last month, got it printing decent very quickly.

He was the one that built the Prusa.

I picked up a Prusa i3 kit for $300 last month, got it printing decent very quickly. I think the Prusa i3 is a good design for a cartesian DIY'r but I do like your wide columns. Could you post a build of materials? I used 20x80x1000 mm v-slot rail from openbuilds and just cut length. It's nice stuf...

It is really comes down to personal preference . If it is wired to the peek then the fan will stay off until the hotend is activated (and reaches 50c). Wiring it to 12v meanes it will be on whenever the machine is turned on so you will always hear the fan when the machine is idle. Personally I don't...