Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

First, I used 1" standoffs to mount the rambo. I wanted the room for air circulation, and as it happened it was perfect for a 40mm fan mounted to the support in back. It's hard to see in the pics. Basically a clip on the fan spaced to grab the melamine, and a strip of velcro(fuzzy stuff in pic)...

I knew this would surface again.
http://makezine.com/2014/02/25/add-patt ... phic-film/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I'm going to have to give this a try.

Can he do a video of it running a part? If he can catch it when it's acting up, so much the better. Maybe we can see or hear something?

You have CF arms correct? I vaguely remember something like this with my stock arms. They galled up in the joints. Pulley slip?

Just for giggles, try slicing it with Cura https://www.ultimaker.com/pages/our-software" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; or KISSlicer. http://www.kisslicer.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I have always had better outcomes with KISSlicer. Unfortun...

What slicer do you use? And have you tried using a different one?

I have always used an 80C bed also. IMO a heated build chamber is more important to curtail curling. As for the "pausing" problem, if you can, post the file(s) here. If someone(that uses SD) runs it and it's reproducible. It could point you in the right direction to problem solve?

Here is a thread with more links to this phenomenon: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... ing#p26561" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Are you running from SD card or computer?

This is the trick for vinyl or any waterproof substrate. Not sure how the soap will affect the glue line with heated bed? Worth a try. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNQ0WhonnBM" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Getting it down dry requires you to keep a slight arc in the tack...

Looks good! :D I use a straight razor blade and painters palette knife to get parts off. Slip the razor blade under an edge, and then slip the palette knife under that. A little persuasion and the part releases :) I like to do this while the bed is still at temp. IMO the glue/hairspray tack line is ...

IMO smoke is never good Read this thread:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... ter#p23747" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Especially the part on testing actual accurate temps with a multimeter/thermocouple.

Repetier-Host VO.95F
The weird thing is my Max works/connects perfectly? When I change to the Printrbot profile, I have to push that "ok" every time. If I disconnect, then reconnect, it still has to be clicked to work? I'm thinking it may be on the Printrboard side?

Long story short-Cut my teeth on a Printrbot jr.-bought two of them for a "keep one give one to a school" kickstarter last year. Finally cut through the red tape and local High school art dept. is getting it.(Wish it were an Orion :) Ah well...) I built it this week and was calibrating on ...

Looks like you're gettin' there ;) Here's a link about ABS juice: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4269&p=29440&hilit=ABS+juice#p29440" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; I don't use it, too messy. I use hairspray(can be messy with over spray) this is w...

Glad you got an answer :D I would still verify the temps. It's the only way to know "actual" readings. And they can be important, not only for extruding, but extruding one filament to the next. They all have a "sweet" spot. And it can be between a couple degrees. You're build loo...

So in this window what temp? 230C?
and this one?..."manual control" Repetier host

Read this thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=4168&p=27924&hilit=thermocouple+meter#p27924" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Can't stress how important this step is!! A multimeter is your friend :) What did you have the temp set to in whatever sl...

Both of those seem a little high. The hotend should print ABS around 230C and the bed around 80C should suffice. Did you verify your temps with a multimeter/thermocouple? Very important step! If you get that hotend temp too high with a stock SeeMe, you will damage your PEEK section. I would do the v...

That's the idea Just needs some implementation

I used to make them out of 1/2" acrylic at a specialty ad company I worked for. We used them to silk screen on. I have a lab pump. I use it to de-air castings/molds, it's fairly quiet actually. The one's at the ad company were in insulated boxes to muffle them. If I can find some aluminum, for ...

With all the substrate experimentation you've been doing lately. I think you need to design and build a nice round vacuum table.(In your spare time of course ) Make it out of aluminum, could replace the heat dissipator

Lookin' great! Be glad that thermistor didn't pull out in the middle of a print My advice, zip tie/strain relief the wires, or it will pull out when the effector starts flying around the print bed Which looks like it will be happening soon!

I actually emailed Hod Lipson at Cornell. And he stated in an email back to me that he thinks widespread adoption "could" happen this year. I've sort of been following/researching this for some time. There are articles that show some movement in adoption/support. We just need that one big(...

I've found that generating text in "Inkscape" and exporting it to SCAD with that path converter works really well. I made this name plate in about five minutes
I added the back plate in Inventor Fusion. No guarantees on how it will print