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I noticed that the new black extruder plate is causing the my extruder to not sit level (tilts to one side), I think this maybe part of the problem.
At this point I can't correct this issue without modifying the base plate/other parts. Every time I print I run into this issue.

Hey John and Brian,

Any update on the new screw/cap design?

Thanks,

Mike

I have yet to assemble mine. I was surprised to find that there were no grub screws in the motor pulleys. My steppers have flats on the shafts. Would it be worth my time to drill and tap the pulleys for grub screws, or is a press fit sufficient? Pressed should be enough. The pulleys press on and st...

This is what I am thinking, a cone shaped cap. Thoughts? H-11 hot end cone nut.jpg The more I think about it, the cap would have to replace the threaded thumb nut (as you said in your previous posts) that comes with the extruder. There is just not enough space to put something over the entire thing...

bvandiepenbos wrote:This is what I am thinking, a cone shaped cap.
Thoughts?

H-11 hot end cone nut.jpg

Dude, thats cool! I would gladly print that out, I think that will solve the problem with the filament buckling!

Ok.. the drive pulleys ... pressed on or glued? If pressed, is there a possibility of damaging the motor internals? Pressed on, I haven't had a problem yet. One trick is to put a washer that fits (loosely) in the other end of the shaft/bearing opening. This will allow you to press down on the motor...

I haven't modified the plastic parts (yet), I took the approach of carefully aligning the rollers with the opening of the extruder. So far (crossing fingers) I haven't had a problem with the filament squeezing between the extruder and rollers. I will keep you posted if I run into any other problems....

jasco13 wrote:Also, what the heck size hex key do you need to tighten the tensioner bolts on the extruder drirve unit. 1/8 is too big and 3/32 is too small. Is it really 7/64. Just checking in before I go tracking down and odd sized hex key.

Yep, I use a 7/64 bit on my driver for the tension bolts.

I'm not running the new design, so I'm not sure if this will help you or not, but I had this problem when I first got my machine built. What I found was the tube was not centered directly below the grooves in the rollers. The filament was hitting on the bevel of the tube, and sometimes went sideway...

I am running into a weird problem with 1.75mm filament and the new extruder design. The best I can describe it is that when the filament is going from the rollers (feeders) to the extruder (top/opening), sometimes the filament will bend and start to push through the gap between the top of the extrud...

ABS or PLA?

I read it. If I did not tighten the screw as the video, the inner shaft does not rotate (abs plastic). I would start by removing the motor completely and by hand running/spinning the gears, if you get no noise, start cranking down the longest bolt (the one with the double gears). Remember you only ...

I agree with the dougmsbbs, it sounds like metal on metal rubbing against each other.

That's kinda creepy and yet kind of cool at the same time.

Check out:

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=459
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=455

Hey Mike, and kilroyo, thanks both of you guys. We too have had some "issues" at times, and we've only sold 500 of these in the last 6-8 months. I've emailed back and forth with Brook @ printrbot, and man, I feel for him. I think he got a bit more than he could handle for sure. We're actu...

That's awesome, it will be nice to get even more members. There's no doubt the reason this place aint busting at the seams is due to advertising. You guys kill everyone else with the price and quality. The only reason I found SeeMeCnc was from someone putting one up for sale on ebay. Then I started...

johnoly99 wrote:Thanks mike. Got your order with the nozzle request. Will do!

Thanks John! You guys rock as usual!

Congrats on the publicity and success at the MakerFaire! Well deserved!

Is the plastic bed warped? If so, glass won't help much. I had my plastic bed warp and the only solution was to get a 1/4" acrylic plate and replace the bed.

Wiring diagram (use wire color coding to hook up motors).
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Wiring

jasco13 wrote:I think I'll just use an all metal crimp connector to be safe. Is it safe to put shrink tube around it or will that melt from the heat?

Heat shrink will just melt. I have used the following as an insulator sleeve for wires against heat.
http://ultimachine.com/content/ptfe-sleeving-0015-id

Approximately 210C - 250C is where most lead free solder melts. If you have something that will melt around 260C then you should be OK. As long as you keep the connections from touching the extruder. I have soldered my connections and they seem to do fine, as long as the resister wires are not touch...

Patience fellas. They will get to it.

kilroyo wrote:Nice !! those parts look beefy compared to the older parts

Yeah, I hadn't anticipated rebuilding my extruder but had to do so last night cause I got oozing from the sides (my fault). I am using the new black plastic parts for mounting the bearings, gears and extruder. Much more solid!