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I believe PETG has a lousy UV resistance, maybe that's why it is bending. In regards to the effector: I have been printing about 20 hours on it, and I do not see any burning or deforming whatsoever. And I was printing ABS, so no fans running ;-). Nut I guess having the E3D sock over the heatblock he...

Here we go again...
Micaheals amusing thoughts about using oil (at least in regards of 3d-printing...)
http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/06/fr ... e-oil.html

If you have enough cable length left, yes, always cut off and start a new.
Hard to see, but you could perhaps use a smaller size. If the cable has too much room left, it is prone to failure.

My Duet 0.6 was off about 15 degrees C. Thanks for the tip!
My setup is getting better every day

Yes, I recently re-assembled my older E3D and adapted to the newer thermister cartridge and the sock. I saw that in the manual they advised about thermal paste too. I never did that in the past. I used ordinary thermal paste that is used for computer CPU fans. I hope that it has a large enough tempe...

Thanks DC42. Yesterday night I upped the steppercurrent to 1500mA, the max speed from 20000 to 30000 mm/min and the jerk from 1000 to 1500. I have been printing brackets for my enclosure for hours. I can feel the motors getting a bit warmer then before. I measured them around 47 degrees C so that is...

Great info as usual, thanks. I never thought of this to need calibration
I am continuing my questions in a new thread because I feel it wanders off-topic too much here:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=111&t=12004

Hi all, This is basically a continuation of this thread: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=112&t=11991&p=105403&sid=04f4642ef8258df5add44c4098a74e28#p105355 But I felt I hijacked wdmarine's thread and was wandering off-topic too much. But it is keeping me busy, hence a new topic ...

Nice write down, thanks for the link. I guess I MUST have a spool of clear PETG sometime soon!

Oh, I forgot to mention: it almost does not fray when you burn the ends a bit with a torch, and it completely does not fray when you use a hot-knife for cutting! ;-) I used "F6W0.38 Flexo F6 Woven Wrap, 9.5mm" for both the loom and the outer PTFE wrap. If you have extra wires in your look ...

Yeah I thought about shrinmking the end of the tree, but I did not for 2 reasons: A) My tube did not fit over the connectors and I was to lazy to resolder them B) I am thinking about a LED ring so I will need to put in extra wiring soon

Aw... I'am using the same platform since last week, in ABS. So I better prepare myself
PETG is better for high temps?

Higher current will reduce the likelihood of missed steps. However, if you increase the current much above the 1.2A that you are already using, then you will need to use a fan to cool your Duet 0.6 board. The best arrangement is a fan that blows cool air along the line of drivers on both sides of t...

Hmm, that still leaves the bore length as a possible cause. Another option would be that your hotend temp is way below what the thermistor guesses. Have you checked that against a thermo couple?

Wait... Out of curiosity I checked my steppers: Wantai 42BYGHW811P2 I googled for specs: http://www.phidgets.com/documentation/Phidgets/3303_0_Datasheet.pdf Here it shows that they are rated for 2.5 Amps, which looks to be much higher then most others? I checked the formula above but I get some nons...

Mac The Knife wrote:Instead, I discovered that the power switch had failed. Wow.

Good find, not the first thing anyone would think about...

The stock fan works just fine if nothing is obstructing the airflow besides the heatsink of the E3D. Mostly 2mm retracts work fine, but maybe there is some specific circumstance where you would want to try 1.5mm. If you push in the PTFE tube, usually you will find a first barrier 1 or 2 mm before th...

I am pretty thrilled about this Techflex sleeving, I used to have a foldable sleeve with velcro for closing them up. It is nice to be able to take the sleeve off and be able to work on it, or add something to it. But I always felt it was putting too much strain on the hotend mount, ans it was tiltin...

Interesting Jim!
So after 3d-printing 3d-printers, some people basically start 3d-printing 3d-printing-filament...

I recently got my hands on 2pcs of 5mm thick aluminium discs waterjetted out of plain brute constructive aluminium plate (not sure about exact alloy but nothing OOtO for sure). I hope it is as stiff as the boro glas. I still had one of those Gizmodorks 0.8mm PEI sheets that are sold on Amazon with t...

I get errors playing those video's... Are you sure they are shared publicly?

EDIT:
Oh, just saw the hyperlinks, they do work... I now remember that this forum has a lot of trouble with youtube links...

I know from experience that a cross-wind can be carried many meters into the spool before it becomes a problem. I don't want to put the blame on your own side, but I cannot image that these spools are getting hand-winded, and I don't see how automatically winded spools could become crossed. It sure ...

That is a nice catch! So every next gridline is going high or low by turn. Curious... On the Rambo board You can move the X motor connector to Y, the Y to Z, and the Z to X (don't forget to move the endstops accordingly). After you repeat the mesh grid compensation routine, it would be interesting t...

Most mechanical problems get exponentially bigger the closer the Hotend gets to the edges of the bed or the towers. It is not very uncommon to make the calibration radius smaller than bed. But still it is probably a mechanical problem. In your first picture I see some kind of rippling effect perpend...

Your reviews are as good as your prints!