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I gutted the max to make this one.. I used the original Max towers to make this one, they are 3" further apart. While this reduced my max print height a bit, I can move the nozzle all over the build plate much more accurately with ~15 minutes of calibration. You can check out my build log if yo...

And today the noise stopped. weird...

Got the arms attached today and printed out a calibration cube from my Rostock converted to Kossel build!
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPykAvvZuYs[/youtube]

On an unrelated note, what effector platform is that?

Is this something that can hurt the bed?

If you watch towards the end you can see the red led indicating the pwm signal sent to the SSR. When the light goes on sound is heard, different notes for different brightnesses. Also, when the bed is full on or off no sound is heard.

I am in need of some assistance, what is causing this noise? It is coming from where the wires attach to the bed. I have a Meanwell 24v psu with a crydom 50a ssr. When I lift the aluminum heat spreader off of the bed the noise resonates with it. [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akPs1OdA2vo[/y...

The platform is referring to what holds the hot end, the part that moves across the build plate. If the nozzle is not touching at the Z tower, then move the endstop screw on the Z town in. If it is touching too much move the Z screw out. If you're going from not touching to then crashing into the be...

I missed this last year but won't miss it this year! I signed up, but there was no confirmation email or error/success message on the page. Is that normal?

Alright, get your bed back to the point where it's the same pressure on the paper on all of the towers and z0.

Do you have access to a camera? Can you get a clip of the first layer going down?

The price seems a bit steep considering it doesn't come with any of the hardware, or is there something I'm not seeing here?

Check your x tower belts, make sure they aren't slipping which causes the print to shift. When you set your z height are seeing if a sheet of paper can fit under the nozzle? I realize lifting the height up that much seems like a lot, but if the z height is set below the bed it needs to come up more....

dylantep wrote:Attempted another print after some tweaking. same result

That looks like you are pushing the head way too far into the bed. Get it further from the bed, make sure when lines touch each other as the first layer goes down and there is a even amount of filament across the line.

SOLD.

Upgrading my Rostock Max v2, need longer arms and don't need these anymore.

$70 shipped.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/bfHOV3C.jpg[/img]

$70 shipped? http://www.tricklaser.com/Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Arms-with-Metal-Ball-Rod-Ends-for-Rostock-MAX-RM-ARM-CFTX.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; All around better print quality, no sanding required (only a big deal with the v1 arms), super rigid. I never printed with t...

dunginhawk wrote:So yeah, i have the stock arms... you have the laser carbon fiber arms... what are you upgrading to?

I'm moving to a larger delta, the trick laser arms aren't long enough for it.

i'm upgrading my rostock, I have a set of stock v2 arms and the trick laser carbon fiber arms if you're interested in either.

What customizations does the firmware have?

1. Check your retraction settings, you could be pulling the filament too far back.
2. Ooze will come out while heating up. I just pull it off before the print starts.
3. Not sure I use Cura.

Hans wrote:Wasn't the socket either. However I did re-flash the firmware and it seems to be responding now.

Of course, I have to re-do all my PID settings now, but such is the way of things.

-Hans

Did you erase your eeprom? Your PID settings etc are stored there, just flashing new firmware won't erase it.

We don't have fancy ceiling lights here! These are just floor lamps that plug into the wall. Yes they are on the same circuit. We have another room next to the one the printer is in that flickers, but not as severely. I am not sure if that room is on the same circuit though, I can check. Is it noise...

Alright I finally had some time to get everything set up. The damn thing heats up to 100C in 5 minutes... Wowza. I know the aluminum spreader and glass take a while to catch up, but that beats 25 minutes with 12V. My only concern right now is with the PSU. When it kicks on the lights in my room dim....

Are your acceleration/speed/jerk settings all the same? If Cura is pushing your printer harder the symptoms might not show up if it's running slower.

Hey guys, Could something like each tower's depth into the base of the printer affect calibration? The towers I received looked like they had been filed down on the sides to ease their insertion into the body of the printer. The screw head that stops the towers is hitting the tower on this rounded ...