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There's been much about failed PTC fittings, other methods of securing the bowden tube, etc... Just thought I'd share my quick fix. Simple little printable c-ring/e-clip that prevents the fitting from moving during retracts. It also reduces some hysteresis (obviously not a lot, but every little bit ...

I haven't used the stuff, but I know it works well for ABS and PLA. Robox machines use it as well. I would bet you'd have more luck with the 1/8" sheet. I would just use binder clips to hold it to your bed for the sake of simplicity, but if you have clamps, then RTV to glass would probably be f...

1.75mm isn't always 1.75mm. In the case of trimmer line, it is actually .065" Which is 1.65mm. In order to get good print results, you need to measure every spool of filament and enter your measured value your slicer program. Otherwise, you're going to over or under extrude

But with Openbeam, you're talking about $1/corner/joint. Much cheaper than 80/20 or others.

It's likely about the same in cost of filament for brackets/joints - if not cheaper - and quicker and more precise.

Wayyy too fast for T-glase. Need to print at half the speed of ABS, or less. Try printing with a higher layer height (.3-.4), and much slower - 25-35mm/s - and you should have much better results. T-glase will give you great vertical resolution even at larger layer heights, but it can't print fast.

I just realized that OpenBeam would be an excellent alternative to printing all the pieces... All you would need to print would be mounts for the extrusions to the base. OpenBeam is designed to handle standard 3mm (1/8") acrylic. http://www.amazon.com/6-Pack-Extrusions-Clear-Anodized/dp/B00C444...

Don't waste money on a meter. Easy way to do it... Calculate the volume of your box... For example, the dryer box we make is 10 x 10 x 5" box = 500 cubic inches. A 5g bucket is somewhere in the neighborhood of 1300cubic inches That means that at 30C (86F), the max water content of your air (100...

Have you tried PET tape? It's much thicker/stronger than Kapton. When I'm printing a lot of ABS, I use it and I typically get 10-15 prints before needing to remove and recover the glass.

Full disclosure - I haven't attempted the cal pyramid with the trimmer line yet, but I will and I'll post my results.

I have, however, printed over 30lbs of the stuff in the past 5-6 months, so take that for what it's worth.

I am working on a post for it, but there just aren't enough hours in the day right now. I have an E3D, and when I print with it, my retraction is at 12mm @80mm/s For that print, I would try printing a little cooler... 250-255C If your filament isn't totally dry, stringing is unavoidable. Filament di...

If you can get some 2-3mm poly sheeting, you can try draping it around your printer. Eliminates drafts and should allow the "chamber" to heat up a bit which should help with warp.

Or spend more time and money and build an enclosure like Bubbasnows

I've been meaning to make that switch for a long time now. Just too lazy to break it all down and do it.

Any noticeable change with the threaded therm? How much different were your PID settings?

The other option that's not glass is a sheet of polyetherimide (PEI). There are a few hardware manufacturers using it for their beds, and it works really well, but it can be tough to source and a little bit pricey. The results I've seen with it are pretty great, though, and it's got some desirable p...

Guys, you're making this more complicated than it should be. A brand new plate of boro glass will not crack or break under printing stress/use. But when you start scraping off your prints with a paint scraper or other metal utensil, or scrub it clean when it has particles on it that can scratch it, ...

If you're printing through rephost, hit the pause print button and immediately move the hot end print. Doesn't matter which direction. I usually just hit pause and then hit the move x+50mm once or twice (assuming I'm in/near the middle of the bed). Once the head is off the print, you have all the ti...

they won't tell you where they get them, but I found what they use... It is a UK company - John Guest You can buy a 10 pack on grainger http://www.grainger.com/product/JOHN-GUEST-Male-Connector-1WTX2 They drill it out so that the bore is the same size from top to bottom. If you use little c clips on...

The Open Beam guys are great, but that printer isn't meant to compete with the Max. It's meant to offer a fully open source and affordable printer to the market. Those guys are great. I just met Terrence and Johan this past weekend, and both are valuable contributors to the industry. I just purchase...

what slicing program do you plan to use for 2+ extruders?

haven't seen it posted anywhere, and I just made the switch to .91, but horizontal radius = printer radius - carriage offset - extruder offset, correct?

It's working but definitely need to make some tweaks to it - not a fan of some of the "wait for temp" features and the like...

Both would be quite unpleasant and would cause serious tissue damage, but sodium hydroxide is commonly known as lye and is fairly easily procured.

12M HCl is tough to get without a license/legitimate reason for use

As a side note with some relevance, I did have a chem professor in college who gave us a titration challenge. If any of the lab groups could titrate some solution we were working with more accurately than he could, then he would drink the solution he prepared of 12 molar hydrochloric acid and sodium...

NaOH = lye

No need to get rh% that low. If the volume of your sealed container is no more than a 5g bucket, then 15-30% (depending on your filament and its starting moisture content) is adequate to maintain dry filament.

I wouldn't mess with it. Really not worth the hassle/risk.

There are a bunch of unused pins for "extension fun", but they haven't provided much in the way of details yet. Focused on getting the hardware out first, I'm sure.

It appears that the fan doesn't cover the bottom fin on the heatsink of your E3D...

They recommend the fan be lined up with that bottom fin, but I have a feeling it's not necessary. Can you verify?

I think this graphic is very informative.

In simple terms, we're not getting everything out of our current hardware because we lack the processing power to plan properly. ARM boards will change that.

http://smoothieware.org/howitworks