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You shouldn't have to change anything in the IDE to get the firmware to work if you build the firmware correctly. I uploaded my config for my (mostly) stock printer. It may or may not be fully configured correctly (mainly PID values, delta calibration values, and possibly steps per mm for XYZ and E ...

I'm assuming if you put the prime structures before the main object it will order them like that, but I'm unsure.

If you click on the object in the side panel it will pull up an Extruder Mapping window. There you can select each object or each mesh and select which extruder is matched with which object. You can then set each tower to be from its own extruder. Screen Shot 2016-05-16 at 11.44.38 AM.png Also on OS...

You can thicken the first layer with this. Its layer hight + that value = first layer height
Not really sure what your problem is, sounds like you have the Z probe offset in firmware off a little?

I used to use straight up Cura. Its a pretty good slicer. KISS is significantly better in most ways so I use it now, but if something ever happens to KISS and nothing rises up to meet the market I'm going back to Cura. The infil pattern on lower infil% is weird, it will do one layer only one directi...

What happens when you press *home all* in repetier? Can you video it? Im having a real hard time understanding whats going on so its difficult to help

I'm not sure. I'll try checking out my config for .92.9 tonight and I'll upload the config file if you want to try it out (if you have any mods from stock just open it in the firmware builder tool and change what you need to)

The arms should move up. Are they moving down a small amount? That means they might be wired NC, but since they were on the wrong pins it seemed like the config was wrong.

You can get a higher number of steps per mm (more precision) without moving to higher micro stepping (which has its own problems, like inconsistent holding torque per each micro step) and a bit smoother movement. I can't remember the other pros and cons currently. It shouldn't make a difference to t...

The RAMBo isn't aware of how many degrees are in a step for a stepper, all it is doing is sending pulses to the motor to move a step, regardless of how large or small that is. You only need to double the steps per mm for all axes with .9 degree steppers.

The file I uploaded was from .92.2, the current version is .92.9. I could run through again and update everything that was broken. I'm also building my MAX up and its pretty much stock electronics so I can share my config from that. Probably won't be right away though, I'm 30 miles away from my prin...

The mini rambo is as robust as the regular one, it just dropped the second extruder/hotend control and shrunk the board size. It still has a 15amp bed fuse just like the regular one. A nice thing is the LCD pins are stacked in the proper config for a direct connection to the board (no adapter requir...

Glad it worked for you. If you have any more troubles feel free to ask.

Check your endstop wires, they might be entangled or crossing the bedhead wires and the PWM signal might be triggering the X one via EMI. In your config search for "Always check endstops" and disable that (set it to 0) and see if it works then. If it does then be careful when in Z+ directi...

You can probably get away with just throwing them anywhere. That was my plan for my setup.

If the endstop wiring is the same as the picture you posted before, the endstops are plugged into the min endstop pins instead of the max endstop pins. I set up the firmware for the max endstops, so just move all of them over one. It should be labeled min vs max.

Yes it is, but the drive gear diameter is smaller than the stock, so it gets a different amount of torque delivered to the filament than if you were to use the stock drive gear with the titan. I'm not sure how the math works out but its potentially the same or more torque delivered to the filament t...

Keep in mind that the titan is using a smaller diameter drive gear (I think its a hobgoblin type, similar to a MK8 drive gear (MK series stands for Mark, and its a standard from Makerbot back in the TOM/Replicator 1 days) (should be around 9mm)) so its torque output is even higher than those ratios ...

You have KYSAN brand stepper motors (Or as I sometimes call them, skittles steppers (the BlaGRBlu are like MnMs)). This is the correct wiring for KYSAN motors (RGYB). I just checked my printer and that is how they are wired (and they move).

It looks like it might be for installing the carbon fiber arms from TrickLaser, the rod those arms mount onto could be clamped in the channel? Might have been accidentally included.

If you check out the platform its mostly empty space
So it just shines through the areas where there is no aluminum

The possibilities of EMF are slim, but if the pairs aren't twisted and the wiring is a bit messy then it is certainly possible. Its almost impossible to keep the wiring in the base clean unless you wrap it all up with something (and not a lot of people think to do this during assembly). Thats the on...

I was saying "Horizontal Rod Radius at 0.0" since that is what "Horizontal Radius" is called in the EEPROM settings. But yeah the original config has some problem (also a lot of weird extra settings I've never seen in any version of Repetier Firmware). The one I sent you is what ...

I think you should be able to do that relatively well. The titan is quite light weight, especially with the pancake. I personally would recommend going the airstruder route so you can use a larger motor and get more torque, but I see little issue with the lightweight pancake approach.

Good luck on those, I've gone mine next week.