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I switched back to .81 and that didn't seem to help, then I started searching this forum and started to think it wasn't getting enough filament, so I printed and watched my extruder this time and noticed it would skip every now and then and that the spool just wasn't spinning freely. I took a trip t...

Configuration.h, I think they run off the same fuse though, not so sure about that

Shouldn't give you much trouble if you pick up some JST connectors and use the supplied wiring. What part is it that you are having a hard time with?

Look on YouTube search for E3D thermistor and you'll see a video from E3D themselves talking about the switch.

I put my bed at 80 and a good starting point for ABS is 220. I print only in ABS and have about 5 different spools that all print really well from 220 to 230. Happy printing!!

I don't print in PLA haven't even tried to, I print in ABS. I got some filament from R3D on ebay, blue ABS, haven't found its sweet spot as far as temp goes, I'm having a problem with layer adhesion with it but I also think my extruder motor may be capping out on me so that could be the problem too....

I am going to switch back to .81 as soon as this part is done printing, and then print the same part again and see if there is a difference (I need three of these anyway) . Once I have downgraded and printed the part again I will report the results here. I know people have said it is a problem with ...

Those big shifts I could maybe see the head dragging it a little bit but now whenever I am printing something the layers just dont seem to always line up, it may be off just a very small hair but it is along the whole print and those little differences are very noticeable, it makes it look really ba...

Also http://www.tridprinting.com/Mechanical- ... -Screw-Kit sells pre assembled rods too. I think the closest they have to stock length is 250mm. Stock is 260mm I believe, correct me if I'm wrong guys.

I don't think it could be the print head moving the piece cause to be honest I use way to thick of a layer of ABS Juice on my glass (but I never have curled up edges) so it would have to slide the whole glass sheet. Yes I have the Trick Laser CF arms. I'll check my pullys when I get out of work to s...

I'm attempting a print of just one of them instead of all three to see if that makes a difference

carriages are ok, they move freely and the bearing covers have no flat spots. any other ideas what might be going on?

I have been trying to print a pretty long print, about 12 hours long, but each try so far I notice at a certain point the layers start shifting like if someone moved the glass while printing. First time it shifted towards the front between the X and Y axis and the second time it shifted towards the ...

The Trick Laser CF arms are the absolute best, spend the money and get the assembled ones, then they just screw right in no fuss! I and many others I'm sure can attest to their greatness!!

I would take one of the geared steppers, I've been contemplating weather or not I wanted to use one.

Yeah, I know, It was a 12 hour print of which I only had three more to go! :evil: Longer the print, the more chances something will mess up on you! Trying to print the bottom corners of my printer I have designed, I have everything else I need just need all the printed parts now! Cant wait to start ...

Never mind, I saw after I posted that the plug for the hot end had wiggled off! duh! I zip tied it together so I shouldn't have that problem again, I think I missed too much of this layer and I'm afraid my print may be ruined

Im in the middle of a big print and all of a sudden my extruder stopped working, I paused the print as soon as I noticed it wasnt pushing anything but now when I try to get it to extrude it will not! any ideas what may have happen? Id like to finish this print if I can get the extruder working again...

Just saw what was noted about my hot end, wish I would have known that before, maybe that was some of the cause of my billion clogs I had with the stock hot end! I have since installed a V5 E3D hot end onto my Max using pilot626s mount with the exception of the spacers, I went to my local hardware s...

Look in the local hardware store for a drawer that says "Tension Pin", you can use those as spacers as well, that's what I did!

Yes I changed EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE from 97 to 8, I dont have a thermocouple to test it with but I know at room temp it reads about the same as the heated bed and also in the comments it says 8 is for the Semitech thermistor which comes with the new E3D hot end so I'm pretty confident it is correct. ...

Well I had to change the thermistor type, the max temp, and also the defective max temp. The defective max temp was giving me the problem, it was at like 275, I tried setting it to 300 but still got the lock out and the "def" message on the LCD because it doesn't stop right at temp, it ove...

Yeah, I just found by way of searching through the configuration.h file that I needed to change the EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE from 97 to 8 since the new E3D comes with a Semitec thermistor. Should I change the PID max temp so I can use PID auto tune and have the hot end at the highest possible usable temp?

Yeah I can do that, which I probably will, but I want to know why my printer is doing this. I should be able to bring it to 350 or 400 if I want for whatever reason. Could this be due to max PID values in the firmware? What else should be changed in the firmware, I would imagine I should do the PID ...

I installed my new E3D, changed the max temp in the firmware to 350 then updated firmware on my board, now when I try to do the final step of bringing it to 300c then once at temp give the nozzle one final wrenching to tighten against leaks, my machine wont let it get there! At like 299c the LCD scr...