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It sounds like the i2c bus potentially has a break in it. Check your connections to this circuit and see if that helps. You do have all of the necessary hardware, correct? Apparently this could happen on a printer that doesn't actually have an accelerometer... http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php...

Please export a small print to a G code file and put that on your SD card and try that. Also post the .STL and your exported .gcode file here as well.

In the interest of full disclosure I haven't tried this on my printer (it's busy at the moment). I'm suspecting that your Mac is the problem. To see if this is the case, you can send a "raw" extrusion command that won't get interfered by either MC or your Mac. And I really doubt that MC is...

Teeth marks are normal and to be expected. What would be a problem is if the gear ground partially through the filament far enough to slip. Do you hear "popping" noises when the extruder is trying to feed the filament but can't? That's a sign of a slipping extruder. I got rid of my EZStrud...

NP. Next we need to look at your thermistors. But since both were going astray, I suspected a voltage drop problem. And I'm still confused from your original post stating: "I tried the voltage across the fuse on the heater and the voltage going across while on is >12." Could you post a pic...

Just out of curiosity, what is your hotend temp when you try to extrude? If it's too low then the extruder won't run.

The next thing to try is to unplug one of your axis steppers (X, Y, or Z) and plug your extruder stepper into it. Now does it run when you do a move?

I've got no idea as to the "official" length, but when I replaced mine, I simply installed the hotend side and then hand moved my hotend in the widest possible circle while holding the loose end next to my extruder. I added a few inches and made my cut there. What you don't want to have is...

Excellent!

Well, if the knob is still moving it's not the stepper motor... Take a close look and see if your drive gear is slipping on the EZStruder's shaft. Let it run for several minutes and pull out the filament. Has it been ground down where it meets the drive gear? Do you have a bunch of filament grinding...

So many questions... :) "I see on the side of the heater there is a 115 and a 230, should I push it so that the 230 is available?" Unless you live in an area where the voltage is 230 volts (Europe comes to mind), then no. That's to select your input voltage for your power supply, if you li...

Well yeah, if you have it off while you measure for voltage, it would be a display of a fundamental lack of electrical understanding. And since one of the things that he is looking for is voltage drop, he's going to need volts and a load. And since he's getting some heat, it's obvious that the fuse ...

Pretty much, but it really isn't missing anything that you need to run a 3D printer. The stepper drivers have a lower current limit, but still well above what your steppers would normally draw. It supports two extruders and a dual Z. And it's ~$120 as opposed to ~$180.

I don't see how it could be your wiring. The power supply might be it. And then there's the controller...

In other topical news, I just got in a Maestro, it looks sharp, and it appears to support my RepRapDiscount. It might be worth looking into.

Meh, whatever.

Before I was a Controls engineer, I was a Colorado Master electrician. And that's how we did it.

I'm with Gene on this one, I'm going to say that you have a loose connection somewhere. First off, the voltage check that you did on your your heater indicates a blown fuse. The classic way of testing for a blown fuse is to put a voltmeter across the fuse. If it shows voltage, in this case 12 volts,...

Sounds like the controller to me. I can't think of anything common that would affect all three axis other than that. What does it do when you try to make manual moves?

Maybe, but getting things aligned where you can't see or measure them is always going to be tricky. I'm a controls guy, I usually leave the the mechanical stuff to the Arts and Crafts guys (Mechanical Engineers). :) But I've got the milled aluminum sockets and plungers from 713Maker installed, as we...

geneb wrote:...then there's something mechanically out of whack with your Rostock.

g.

Yup. Since day one...

Hmmm, I think that it's something in the firmware, which would explain why a fresh install of Octopi wouldn't fix it. What controller does the V3 use, and what firmware (and version) are you running?

No problem! For me, replacing the effector platform helped quite a bit.

I hate to say it, but my Tronxy A8 clone beats the pants off of my Rostock when it comes to build accuracy.

Edit: By the way, check your belts for tightness. I can see where that would cause mushy corners.

You are more than welcome, and that's a problem that I have never seen. Yeow! Ouch. And I thought that the tablet that I sent my niece in Mexico was expensive. Actually, that was about what I spent shipping the tablet. And then there was customs, $1400 Pesos, about $75 dollars US. But that was a one...

Our work printer does this fairly frequently. We counteract it by applying three coats of glue after washing the bed. We don't use hairspray at work, but I use it at home with great results.

Loose hob gear on the extruder? Although I would expect to see it get worse at higher speeds if that was the issue. But, I'd check it anyways.

And don't be afraid to squish the first layer down a bit (lower your Z height).

I did notice this material drewls a lot at that temp, but lower and it would not extrude. That's a sign of moisture in your filament. Try upping the drying temp or the drying time. Just be sure to keep the oven under TPU's Glass Transition temp (AKA, melting point). We use a Dremel 3D Digilab 3D45 ...