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In short my rebuilding of my existing hotend has resulted in fuse F3 blowing, three times now.

What do I need? I need someone to build me a Seemecnc Hot End and make sure it works. I'll pay for the hotend and the building.

I would just get one prebuilt from Seemecnc and pay them the extra but they do not seem to want to sell me one.

And if you're just going to post here with more suggestions how I might do it better or what I might be doing wrong I really don't want to hear it, ok? I've wasted more than a week on this already and I don;t intend to keep wasting time. I want to start with known good hardware and go from there.

Thanks!

SeeMeCNC may be willing to do this. They certainly assemble a ton of them for the Orions... It's worth the phone call.

Jimustanguitar wrote:SeeMeCNC may be willing to do this. They certainly assemble a ton of them for the Orions... It's worth the phone call.

I talked to them already. They refused.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2594" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Try following Gene's guide to build a kickass SeeMe hotend, the cartridges are much more robust in comparison to the power resistors.

I would come and build it for you. But you are probably more than 6000 miles away from me.

Maybe some one who has upgraded to something else would be willing to sell you their old hotend.

Its worth making a new thread with the title: WTB or want to buy.

Also if you indicate where you live, some one may be willing to meet up with you to help out.

Nylocke wrote:http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=2594

Try following Gene's guide to build a kickass SeeMe hotend, the cartridges are much more robust in comparison to the power resistors.

I contacted the vendor he used on Ebay and they don't sell cartridges anymore.

And frankly, like I said above i'm sick to death of building and rebuilding right now only to have things fail over and over.

I just want to throw money at the problem and get known-good hardware put together by someone more perfectionistic than me. Not to be rude, but why is that so hard?

I feel your pain. The SeeMe hot ends can work ok, but are a PIA build to be reliable.

Where are you located?

Its not the SeeMe hotend, but you can buy/print a mount for it pretty easily: http://shop.re3d.org/products/j-head-ho ... -cartridge" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

J-heads are really really reliable at printing PLA/ABS. It has been around the 3D printing space for years and it has been through 8 or 9 revisions I think. For that price I wouldn't doubt its a genuine from hotends.com, not a cheap knockoff. Heater cartridge and everything.

http://www.tricklaser.com/J-Head-Groove ... JHGMNT.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://seemecnc.com/collections/parts-a ... t-hot-ends" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Either of those would work for the J-head.

Edit: upon closer inspection that one is sold with a 24V cartridge. You could replace it with the one sold here https://www.hotends.com/index.php?route ... duct_id=91" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; but J-heads (from what I remember) don't have a set screw holding the cartridge in, so it may be a PITA to swap out, I'll keep looking for a better alternative.

bvandiepenbos wrote:I feel your pain. The SeeMe hot ends can work ok, but are a PIA build to be reliable.

Where are you located?

Seattle

I looked around at the reputable places that I could find (so not including Amazon or Ebay) and I couldn't find any assembled current gen j-heads for sale as an assembled hotend. To be honest, I couldn't find really anything in a 1.75 format other than the one I posted above that is already assembled. I found one on Makerfarm but the pictures look like they are selling a Mk1 or 2, it didn't have the cooling fins in it, and it comes with the power resistor. There seem to be plenty of 3mm preassembled hotends (Budashnozzle, Prusa Nozzle, etc) though..

I am in Seattle, too. Would you like my help in sorting out your F3 fuse issue?

I already suggested he do the heater cart. upgrade. There ARE other vendors out there that offer that cartridge and threaded thermistor.

I asked for pics of the hot end you rebuilt so I could see if there was an issue I could spot and you didn't seem terribly interested in that.

I would strongly recommend you take Earthbound up on his offer.

g.

Osiris on #reprap suggested I check the resistors for continuity against the hotend body and he was right, they were shorted out. Not just the old ones but the new ones as well. So it would seem my skills at such things properly are severely lacking.

geneb wrote:I already suggested he do the heater cart. upgrade.

Several people have said this is a bad idea because the hotend is not made for a single heating element but two. So the heating would be uneven.

That being said I do have a 12v heater core on the way.

Earthbound wrote:I am in Seattle, too. Would you like my help in sorting out your F3 fuse issue?

If you feel confident you can build this: http://seemecnc.com/products/seemecnc-bowden-hotend" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; there is a kilo of Seemecnc 1.75mm Black ABS in it for you. (Or some other suitable payment)

Thanks

A picture would be helpful. It's somewhat common for people to bend the resister leads the wrong way using "round" section of the hot end see figure 3-9 of the manual. They should come straight out bend 90 degrees towards each other on the flat sides like page 151.

KAS wrote:A picture would be helpful. It's somewhat common for people to bend the resister leads the wrong way using "round" section of the hot end see figure 3-9 of the manual. They should come straight out bend 90 degrees towards each other on the flat sides like page 151.

Keep in mind that even if it is built correctly, if the leads are not properly insulated with the kapton tape, there is still a possibility that you can short them out when you assemble the hotend into the Effector plate.

I too would recommend that you let Earthbound help you out in person. That's probably the quickest way to get that resolved. He may find other isssues as well, like shorted fan or thermistor wires.

That said, if you still just want someone to build you a hotend correctly, I am willing to do it if you purchase the parts from SeeMeCNC and send them to me. And I'll do it for free because I've learned so much from this community already at no charge. Just send me a PM.

Absolutely; it can a magnitude of different things. Could also be something as simple as a stray wire.

Maybe hook your meter up for continuity and move the various leads/wires around, maybe you'll get lucky and find it.

If it's not working, you have nothing to lose. But if you find it, you'll feel better than a Viagra induced coma at a strip joint.

The resistors show continuity from the terminal wires to the tinfoil on the side. That means I assembled it wrong or the resistors are bad, however unlikely.

Either way at this point I want to remove variables from the mix.

I've read the tinfoil part a couple time, still not sure what that means. Aluminium foil?

Does the new version of the assembly manual have you seating the resistors into the hotend by sheathing them with aluminum foil instead of "gluing" them with permatex ultra copper or something? Maybe a picture is worth a thousand words here.

The tinfoil wrap was dropped with the v2 manual.

g.

Hmm, I think we're getting somewhere. This whole time I thought we're talking about a v2. His profile history is showing more v1 topics.

Am I correct in saying he can follow the v2 manual on the hotend assembly and forgo the aluminium foil?

I'm also in Seattle, and wouldn't mind helping. Let me know if you want a hand.

The hot end hasn't changed (for the most part) since its introduction.

g.

The nozzle has gone through about 4 major design changes, the PEEK insulator has gone through about 3 or 4, and the lower metal portion started without the two sides milled flat (one of these sides has the thermistor installed in it). The major PEEK changes have been a fin design cut into them and the inner hole resized so only one Teflon tube passes through it (when they scrapped 3mm support). The nozzle started round and developed into the shape it currently is. Those are the main changes I'm aware of other than a old direct drive design for the top without threads for the PTC connector (back in the H-1 days). Nothing really major, depending on how you look at it.

Well yes, but the installation of the resistors is essentially the same. Sans aluminum of course.

g.