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maddielee wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote:

maddielee wrote:Great - thank you so much!

While we're at it - does your 8-pin wiring become loose/unplugged through every day printing? Happened to me last night, caused an 8+ hour print to fail. Thinking of wrapping it in kapton tape..

You could replace the OEM connector with this one that latches for a more secure connection...
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=39

Yeah I might have to do that - would it be as simple as plugging the old connector into that one, and that into the effector plate, or would I have to mess with the wiring itself to swap it from the old connector to that one?

You would need to remove the wire from your current connector - which isn't as bad as it sounds.
Using a small jewelers flat screw driver, you insert the blade into the rectangle hole in front of the wire, press firmly and the wire releases. Then simply push the wire into the new connector in the matching position. If the wire is stubborn, insert the screw driver first ot open the spring, then insert the wires, remove the screwdriver and it should hold.

Here is a video, smaller connectors, but the same operation.
https://youtu.be/86wGtIbEN60

I am going to replace the original small Berd-Air pump on my Max v2 with the new larger pump.

In my current installation, I simply power the small pump via the wires that go to the layer fans.
If I recall correctly, the larger pump draws about 1 amp at startup. My question is can I still wire it the same (can the stock tower wiring and terminals on the Rambo board handle the load) or do I have to use an eSwitch and power the pump separately?

If I wire it into the existing fan line, will it accept the same variable power level as the fans (that is, if the software calls for 50% layer cooling, will the pump run at 50%, or should I run the fans at 100% and use the PMW controller to vary the pump speed?

If I cannot go directly to the Rambo via the existing fan wiring, any wiring diagram or assistance in configuring the eSwitch, PWM, and Rambo connections is appreciated.

Any thoughts?

i hooked it up to my rambo and it worked just fine, the rambo is rated for well over an amp (uses the same mosfet for the heated bed as it does for the fan) and it has a protection diode that prevents the mosfet from blowing. However, if you ever upgrade the electronics to the duet, the motor will fry its mosfet because it does not have the protection diode. Best practice is probably an external mosfet/diode combo like what the makerhive sells or an ssr, which is what i ended up using.

pwm will work.

AlanZ wrote:Any thoughts?

Depending on the board you have, you will want to be safe and use this,
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=41
It will still work with PWM control from the gcode.

I also just placed this on repables, works good.

I just installed the v2 kit + eSwitch kit with my E3D V6 hotend and it works wonderfully with the Duet board. Getting rid of the three fans makes it much lighter and I can use the fan sliders in the web interface. Still not used to the initial startup but like any motor it needs it, 100% on is crazy loud but super strong, 30% is just right. I haven't found any mounts for the motor so I just placed it in the top assembly and routed the tube through the usb firewire hole that isn't used. The clips for the aluminum tubes are perfect and had to bore the hole a bit wider for the E3D mounts. I could have placed them on the bottom but the screws were short so on top of the accelerator cover they went.

Here is a bracket to mount the big air pump.
2 versions, one with space for .13" thick rubber which reduces pump noise.
http://repables.com/r/777/

bvandiepenbos wrote:Here is a bracket to mount the big air pump.
2 versions, one with space for .13" thick rubber which reduces pump noise.
http://repables.com/r/777/

Thanks for the link. Could I further reduce pump noise by encasing it in a housing, provide an opening for intake, and mount it next to the extruder perhaps? Would this overheat the pump?

djarmag wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote:Here is a bracket to mount the big air pump.
2 versions, one with space for .13" thick rubber which reduces pump noise.
http://repables.com/r/777/

Thanks for the link. Could I further reduce pump noise by encasing it in a housing, provide an opening for intake, and mount it next to the extruder perhaps? Would this overheat the pump?

It would probably reduce noise further, but you would need to have openings for air to cool motor, else it may overheat.
with pump mounted in rubber it is not really so bad.
Note: make sure to not cover the motor housing openings with mount clamp or motor gets very hot.

I have done this cooling upgrade. I ended up stuffing my pump in the bottom of the Rmax where there is a spare bay. Just popped the side off and in it went. There was already a hole for me to route the tube through. It reduces the noise quite a bit and seems to be getting enough airflow.

Some Have asked about the cooling pipe fitting the E3D silicon sock,
[img]http://www.themakerhive.com/FTP/jassper ... r/sock.jpg[/img]
YES!

Maybe. getting the bend as perfect as it needs to work. Doubtful.

i see someone managed to get r done.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file ... &mode=view

I wonder if putting a spring around that tube would help the bending process. Now that I see how it would fit on a sock-equipped hot end, I suspect Red Sonja (my E3D/Duet machine) needs one of these.

g.

Yes, the spring is the way to go. I got a set of springs for tube bending from MicroMark and they work great.

You can also slip a piece of wire inside tube to help it bend nicer without flattening or kinking as shown in this video...
https://youtu.be/oJPRmSepvBI?t=38s

Or use ABS filament that way you can dissolve it out with acetone if it gets stuck.

bvandiepenbos wrote:You can also slip a piece of wire inside tube to help it bend nicer without flattening or kinking as shown in this video...
https://youtu.be/oJPRmSepvBI?t=38s

I used the wire trick and it works well. Agree with using the ABS. Great idea.

Has anyone tried this mount option yet? I am having a hard time figuring out how it will mount.
http://repables.com/r/722/

I Have the BerdAir Max and the eSwitch kit. Hooking it up to the Layer fan (Orange wire) on the Rambo, this should be treated as a LOW level trigger correct? Also should I just use the AUX 5v power for this 5v connection? I wanted to have a Raspberry at some point and I am not sure how this would interfere.

Mekra wrote:Has anyone tried this mount option yet? I am having a hard time figuring out how it will mount.
http://repables.com/r/722/

It's designed not so much for the 713 effector, as for the 713 hotend mount. It goes above the lock ring, and one side is notched to go over the strain relief. It probably wouldn't work with the acceloremeter PCB.

I designed it to install with a pair of M3 grub screws in the horizontal holes, with the long hole that they can block being for the tube. The others are for the hardware on the 713 mount. Again, if you have a yellow-jacket or another hotend PCB, it probably won't work.

Xenocrates wrote:

Mekra wrote:Has anyone tried this mount option yet? I am having a hard time figuring out how it will mount.
http://repables.com/r/722/

It's designed not so much for the 713 effector, as for the 713 hotend mount. It goes above the lock ring, and one side is notched to go over the strain relief. It probably wouldn't work with the acceloremeter PCB.

I designed it to install with a pair of M3 grub screws in the horizontal holes, with the long hole that they can block being for the tube. The others are for the hardware on the 713 mount. Again, if you have a yellow-jacket or another hotend PCB, it probably won't work.

Thanks, that would explain some of my confusion. I have the full 713 maker setup (effector, hotend, accel board). I'll take a stab at designing something to work with my setup similar to that approach.

Working on getting my setup going.

I was thinking that since the end is metal it could always be heated to blow hot air instead of cold air on the part. If you needed more air flow but don't want it so cold you get warping. I'm using a heated enclosure which will be temp controlled so I prob won't need to use that idea if I just pull my heated enclosure air.

I ordered a berdair and was just thinking of the possibilities. With the new duet and expansions boards you can do a lot with macros and g code.

Bracket for Berd-Air pipe that mounts with one of the stand-off screws
http://repables.com/r/850/