Rostock MAX v3...

[duvdev]

I am waiting for the new mount for all my v2 printers that will fid the new accl probing board. Please do ASAP

[geneb]

What temperature does that thermal fuse "pop"? The web site and manual says nothing I could find.

The fuse pops at 98C or 208F. It sounds low, but things have to go very, very, bad for the cold section to get that hot.

That new hot end is a major good move. I hate RTV and it takes forever to assemble. The new hot end looks like a drone with 3 motors.

I suspect we'll see John flying one after sticking a Naze32 on it.

Anybody independent reviewed the autoleveling feature yet? Does it work good? How accurate is it?

It's the same auto-level that's in the Eris and it works very well. It's not perfect though. That being said, at it's worst, it's better than hand-calibrating.

While putting all the goodies up top may work for SEEMECNC, being top heavier is not a good thing. It's taller right? It was tall enough already.
I personally would have added a cable routing channel down along the back side of the Z tower like other vendors and left the controller down south.
The cabling would be simple, modifiable and easier to trouble shoot. Try to add an extruder as is.
I prefer all the motors down by the power supply and not having the controller/display up high.

The printer appears to be pretty balanced. The top may be a bit heavier without filament on it, but not much.
The printer height hasn't changed. It's just an illusion due to the sizing changes in the base - it's about half as high as the v2. The extrusions are the same length.
Running a cable channel down the Z axis would look like crap - it would have to stick out in order to clear the carriage.
As the design sits now, there's zero wiring issues as it's all local to the controller. Adding a second extruder is trivial - unbolt the unused panel blank in the back, attach new panel with the extruder on it. Next, add a new wiring whip in the location provided and you're done. (adding the actual 2nd hot end is up to you)

Good news going to 24 volts and dropping the PC power supply. That was a kludge from day one.

It's not 24v. They've never shipped a 24v system. The PC power supply was dropped around December '15. Also, using a PC power supply wasn't a kludge. It worked pretty well and was a cost effective solution. Was it perfect? No. However, it got the job done at an affordable price. The current power supply is more expensive than the ATX supplies they were shipping.

I would like to see stepper vibration mounts that reduce noise. Cork gaskets work?

Probably, but wouldn't you rather actually hear one before deciding it's too noisy?

They fixed it so you can tighten the belts without 3 hands? Phillips Screwdriver, wrench and flat screwdriver. I prefer to use 2 hands.

Yes. You rotate the stepper motor to adjust the belt tension. That's going to leave a lot of three handed people out of work. I don't approve.

I was hoping they would add a dual extruder option and a real place for the filament spool to go.

So making it easy to add a 2nd extruder as well as supplying an injection molded, glass-filled nylon spool support that's designed to hold two rolls of filament isn't enough? How do you define a "real place" for the filament to go?

g.

[TwoTone]

So making it easy to add a 2nd extruder as well as supplying an injection molded, glass-filled nylon spool support that's designed to hold two rolls of filament isn't enough? How do you define a "real place" for the filament to go?

g.

Any pictures of the spool support? I tried find one and couldn't.

[geneb]

TwoTone, check out this link: http://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Step+4 ... ssembly/44. Assembling the spool holder is currently Step 22 and you can see what it looks like.

g.

[Maddog]

Geneb,
Step 22 says "Insert some wisdom here"
Without receiving my V3 and no pictures of a working machine it seemed like a good question.
What is the height of the spool center from the desktop?

How long is the bowden tube on this unit?
The V2 had a very short bowden tube since it was hanging under the top plate in some unused space.

[TwoTone]

TwoTone, check out this link: http://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Step+4 ... ssembly/44. Assembling the spool holder is currently Step 22 and you can see what it looks like.

g.

Thanks, I think something is up with that as I looked there, but a lot of the pictures didnt come up. This time it did, so I tried again and it varies which ones populate.

FYI it's step#23

[Redmartini]

Will the guide be finished today, or will we have to wait till next week.

[geneb]

I'm going as fast as I can. I just finished closing up the top and installing the spool holder. Those steps will be added in the next 30 minutes or so.

The bulk of the time has been video rendering and uploading.

g.

[Noircogi]

Mine's ready for firmware load now, but I haven't installed the Bowden tube yet. All other assembly is done.

Unfortunately, a screwdriver rolled off the top and broke my build plate, so I'm using a craft mirror until a replacement arrives.

I tried attaching a photo, but apparently that doesn't work here.

[Redmartini]

Thanks for all your hard work gene. It's just hard not to be a little excited when its so close!

[KAS]

I tried attaching a photo, but apparently that doesn't work here.

When you upload your image as an attachment, click the "Place inline" button. If you don't get that option then the image might be to large. You can use Flickr or Photobucket to link the image directly using the "Img" tag as-well.

[bvandiepenbos]

I am waiting for the new mount for all my v2 printers that will fid the new accl probing board. Please do ASAP

Here you go...
http://www.tricklaser.com/Probe-Board-A ... B-ADPT.htm
I have one available for a beta tester, if interested pm me.
Will be getting a batch water jet cut in a few weeks.

These are in Stock now...
http://www.tricklaser.com/Aluminum-plat ... ALU-BJ.htm

[Noircogi]

The photos of the limit switches in the current documentation are wrong.

You need to remove the metal lever from the switch or it will show the carriage permanently at the limit. It's a real pain to get at them after the printer is fully assembled.

I put my printer together, fired it up and all three limit switches were on.

I see that a text note has been added, but the photos are still wrong for that step.

Edit: if you've already made this mistake like I did, the easy fix is as follows:

Do this one corner at a time.
Remove the two screws below the upper motor assembly which hold it to the upper base plate.
Slide the plate down about 1/2 inch.
Using some needle nose pliers or a screwdriver, you can pop the switch lever right off.
Replace the two screws and repeat as needed.

For the first corner I went at it from the top and had to disconnect the belts etc.

[Qdeathstar]

Are you sure you had them plugged into the right place on the Rambo? That seems like a pretty big oversight (having to physically modify limit switches) that wouldn't have made it out of the first mockup....

[Noircogi]

Yes, this text was added to the online manual in the last day or so:

IF YOUR END STOP SWITCHES COME WITH A SMALL ACTUATING LEVER, CAREFULLY REMOVE IT. IF YOU DON'T, YOU WON'T FIND OUT WHY UNTIL YOU DISCOVER THAT ALL THREE END-STOP SWITCHES ARE HELD CLOSED AGAINST THE TOP BASE PLATE. DON'T ASK HOW I KNOW.

[Qdeathstar]

Yeah, I just saw that. It's not that big of a deal as I had thought originally.. those metal tabs are easily removed, I agree it probably would have been nice to get a heads up. The guy who took the picture probably didn't know they needed to be removed till it was too late either.

[Noircogi]

Mine is up and printing now.

I haven't managed to get "Full auto calibration" from the control panel to complete. I'm wondering if my accelerometer is connected right because I've tried autocal three times and the rambo seems to crash part way through (at different points). I had to power cycle to recover. I eventually gave up and did a manual calibration and everything is working fine now. I know that I2C is in general flakey with long cabling and other signals around. Perhaps I have a wire routing problem.

I had a one screw and some nuts missing from my kit which I let support know about. They checked their other stock and said it was ok.

Aside from the limit switches and the autocal issues, everything else "just worked" first try.

This is my first 3D printer kit of any kind but it seems quite complete and relatively painless to assemble. I'm not sure about the melamine frame parts but I know they have to strike a balance of cost and quality.

Now to get the raspberry PI and Astroprint going. I have that set up on another 3D printer so it should not be hard.

[cloneit3d]

I am not having fun trying to get the 26awg wires into the 8 pin connector way back in the beginning of the build. The green wire pulled out leaving some wire strands in the spring clip. I may tin the leads on the 26awg wires to make them more stiff. Anyone else have this issue?

Thanks,

Tim

[Redmartini]

Is there new firmware for this rostock or do we use the downoad for the v2?

[Noircogi]

Download master.zip and edit the config.h file. Set the machine type to 5 as noted in the comments.

[geneb]

[Note, I originally wrote this yesterday, but was so out of it, I forgot to actually click on "SUBMIT". *sigh*]

I just finished the final assembly step. \o/

Yeah, I didn't find out about the lever on the end-stop switch until today. Had JJ been in arms reach, he would've gotten an Atomic Wedgie for that little oversight.

Noircogi, the bowden tube is slipped inside the mesh loom that carries the hot end wiring.

I've also made another note at Step 5 of the top assembly regarding those end stop switches.

I've got a day-full of commitments tomorrow, but I should be able to get on the firmware load instructions by Sunday.

Once again, apologies for the delays folks.

g.

[cloneit3d]

Would someone please let me know which parts package the 1/8" x 30mm heat-shrink tubing is supposed to be in? I am not able to locate it-

Thank you,

Tim

[geneb]

Tim, take a look in the Hot End Whip Pack. I've got one un-opened here and I can see the heat shrink i there.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

Once again, apologies for the delays folks.

No need to apologize Gene, we appreciate the contributions you have done and we know that you are doing your best.

[geneb]

Firmware loading instructions are posted. I got it done last night, but forgot to make the instructions public.

g.