Rostock Max v3 upgrading to e3d v6 hot end?

[Laughingmonkeylabs]

Has anyone else done this yet and if so could you give me a hint of what is involved. I have the new hot end already and attempted to install into the stock configuration which did not work out very well. Any hints tips or instructions would be greatly appreciated.

I seriously can't be the first to attempt this can I?

[gsnover]

I was just thinking about the same thing!
My HE280 seems to have an issue and a replacement is coming, but it has left me with little faith for that hotend. I've never had a problem with an e3d hot end.
I looked at Trick Laser's site, they have an aluminun effector (back ordered), groove mount pieces, and a probe board. Those three should allow you to mount the e3d with the probe, but I am not sure if the fan shroud will fit. They have a picture with all those parts with a prometheus hot end inside, but I'be never used one and would rather stick to the e3d ecosystem. Also, I wonder how the slight differences in the physical setup will affect the probe?

[Jimustanguitar]

You can do it, yep. I'll be converting mine tonight. Basically, you just need to mount the accel board somewhere else, and wire up your new hotend to the old one's connections.

https://www.facebook.com/themakerhive/p ... permPage=1

[Xenocrates]

I was just thinking about the same thing!
My HE280 seems to have an issue and a replacement is coming, but it has left me with little faith for that hotend. I've never had a problem with an e3d hot end.
I looked at Trick Laser's site, they have an aluminun effector (back ordered), groove mount pieces, and a probe board. Those three should allow you to mount the e3d with the probe, but I am not sure if the fan shroud will fit. They have a picture with all those parts with a prometheus hot end inside, but I'be never used one and would rather stick to the e3d ecosystem. Also, I wonder how the slight differences in the physical setup will affect the probe?

I know Matt at 713maker was trialing a mounting plate for the probe to work with an E3D, you may want to get in touch with him about it. I know a few test parts went out and looked great.

[gsnover]

xenocrates - thanks for the tip. I contacted Matt. Have you used the bondtech QR extruder? I am also looking for more reliability on the cold side. I have had good experiences with the Titan extruder, but mHackney's post about the QR got me interested in that setup. I would love a second opinion. I don't mind the extra cost if it's worth it. Thanks!

[gsnover]

You can do it, yep. I'll be converting mine tonight. Basically, you just need to mount the accel board somewhere else, and wire up your new hotend to the old one's connections.

https://www.facebook.com/themakerhive/p ... permPage=1

Looks like you go the parts from Trick Laser. The facebook pic shows the Prometheus hotend. Are you swapping in a E3D tonight? I'd love to see some pics of the results! Thanks Jimustanguitar

[Xenocrates]

xenocrates - thanks for the tip. I contacted Matt. Have you used the bondtech QR extruder? I am also looking for more reliability on the cold side. I have had good experiences with the Titan extruder, but mHackney's post about the QR got me interested in that setup. I would love a second opinion. I don't mind the extra cost if it's worth it. Thanks!

Yes I have. Honestly I love it. I've had only one issue with it, and that's that the mount cracked over a lot of use (The one you can order, not anything built onto it). The new ones switched to a new material to avert it, and I've reprinted it since then. I would also like to point out that my printer is a very tough environment for the mount, as it is in close proximity to the heat bulbs for the chamber which will often spend extended periods running continuously. It produces plenty of torque, and the nylon parts work very well.

However, if you already have a titan, it's a little more dubious of a proposition unless you work with a LOT of challenging filaments such as flexibles, as the Titan has a good gear ratio and grip. Also, the Bondtech takes a large number of steps per MM due to the planetary gearing, so if you want to print higher speeds without moving away from a Rambo the titan may be the better bet. This is even more the case when working with something like the Prometheus system (Single Input, Single Output, Switching hotends), while Multi-Input,Single-Output hotends like the Diamond and especially the Cyclops really want the extra force of a Bondtech type system.

Another nice feature in my opinion is that it has both infeed and outfeed couplers for tubing, so you can have a completely controlled environment down to the nozzle. That is a easily ignored benefit for moisture senstive filaments like PVA and nylon.

[Jimustanguitar]

I got mine assembled last night. I wish that it was a little easier to route and hide the wires on, but it'll work. I still need to wire up the new harness before it will work.

I decided to solder the disconnectable leads from E3D to the board so that I can replace components in the future without having to solder (except for the heater cartridge). The connectors are larger than I'd like, but at least it'll accomodate plug and play replacements.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/fbXSKVV.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/k8AWe9o.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/glZ5oWf.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/WQogKYa.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/xfotJCo.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/8G5boaS.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/emDigLn.jpg[/img]

[TwoTone]

Much smaller, makes it a little cleaner.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/female-jst- ... s-bag.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/male-jst-ba ... s-bag.html

[Jimustanguitar]

Much smaller, makes it a little cleaner.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/female-jst- ... s-bag.html
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/male-jst-ba ... s-bag.html

I've got some of those, yep. I still chose to use the stock ones that come pre-terminated on the E3D, and that come with a matching pigtail. Maybe I'll change it up the next time I overhaul the hotend.

[szlztt]

I plan on doing the same. It looks like all you need to do is find an innovative way to mount the accelerometer board onto the E3D V6. I do want to increase the temperature capability high enough to print Ultem material at 350C so I plan on converting the thermistor to a thermocouple. Anyone have any advice on that process?

[DerStig]

I plan on doing the same. It looks like all you need to do is find an innovative way to mount the accelerometer board onto the E3D V6. I do want to increase the temperature capability high enough to print Ultem material at 350C so I plan on converting the thermistor to a thermocouple. Anyone have any advice on that process?

Looks like you need to run wires for the PT100 since the HE280 board users the thermistor line as a ground

[Xenocrates]

Der Stig, a thermocouple is different from a PT100 (A PT100 is a better sensor, especially in 4 wire mode, is easier to use on a Rambo, but more expensive and niche). However, yes, both will need to be seperated from the ground on the HE280 to allow you to have a reference or signal ground. Personally, especially with thermcouples, I would ignore the HE280's connection, as it doesn't have the correct properties for these sensors (Yes, there are specific thermouple and PT100 connectors which are designed differently than the normal ones, as well as specific very low resistance cabling and other stuff. Use what E3D provides in the box rather than the wire whip)

[SonnyDR]

I got mine assembled last night. I wish that it was a little easier to route and hide the wires on, but it'll work. I still need to wire up the new harness before it will work.

I decided to solder the disconnectable leads from E3D to the board so that I can replace components in the future without having to solder (except for the heater cartridge). The connectors are larger than I'd like, but at least it'll accomodate plug and play replacements.

So how has it worked out? Are the prints better? How many changes in the configuration?

I am having a lot of issues with the He280, I have to continue to remove that filament puck (under PTFE) after every filament change. I don't feel comfortable printing a large print (which is the point of getting this printer) because I feel at any moment is could get stuck. I am trying a few last tips I was given, but if that fails I'm going with the e3d v6.

[Jimustanguitar]

I'm very pleased with the V6. I've used them exclusively for quite a while now.
I still wish that the wiring was a bit cleaner on my setup, but that's my own fault, and it's been working just fine regardless.

[regito.leathers]

I'm very pleased with the V6. I've used them exclusively for quite a while now.
I still wish that the wiring was a bit cleaner on my setup, but that's my own fault, and it's been working just fine regardless.

Hi Jimustanguitar,
I'm impressed with your conversion and I'm in the process of replacing my HE280 with an E3d v6 hot end on my RostockMax v3. Just a couple of questions if you don't mind.
1. Does the auto leveling still work without receiving an Accelerometer send i2c error?
2. Without the heat resistor do you get a heater decoupler error?

These are my issue during the conversion, any suggestion will be welcome.

Reggie

[Jimustanguitar]

I'm very pleased with the V6. I've used them exclusively for quite a while now.
I still wish that the wiring was a bit cleaner on my setup, but that's my own fault, and it's been working just fine regardless.

Hi Jimustanguitar,
I'm impressed with your conversion and I'm in the process of replacing my HE280 with an E3d v6 hot end on my RostockMax v3. Just a couple of questions if you don't mind.
1. Does the auto leveling still work without receiving an Accelerometer send i2c error?
2. Without the heat resistor do you get a heater decoupler error?

These are my issue during the conversion, any suggestion will be welcome.

Reggie

Both of those are non-issues. The E3D uses a heat cartridge just like the HE280, and the I2C works the exact same because you're still using the SeeMeCNC accelerometer board. It's really not as different as you think. It's mostly just a custom physical mount - otherwise the firmware and controller don't "know" that anything's different.

[duvdev]

I have the same setup. E3d v6 with 713 plate but I can't find a good layer fan for it.
Can some one help?

[Jimustanguitar]

I have the same setup. E3d v6 with 713 plate but I can't find a good layer fan for it.
Can some one help?

I made this one. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1975396 I think the fan mounting tabs are the same.
I intend to make a revision that is angled up a little bit to clear the glass clips better.

I'm not pleased with the fans themself, though. Does anybody have a 5015 blower fan that's a high CFM?
Sorry to hijack the thread.

[Ravitch]

Are there no 3-D printable E3D V6 options right now? I just had one delivered today, and I stupidly assumed that someone must have made a mount already, but can't seem to locate a mount that integrates the accel board.

[djkirkendall]

Here's a 3D printed version: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2098268

It printed really well, and I'll be assembling it this weekend.

I also stumbled across a really novel effector that's compatible: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511
I just assembled this one, and eveything is nice and snug.

[TwoTone]

I also stumbled across a really novel effector that's compatible: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511
I just assembled this one, and eveything is nice and snug.

My son has been running that printed in PETG for a while.

[nrbelk]

I'm in the middle of upgrading my v2 all the way to a v3. I had/have a E3d v6 that I was using for my v2.

This thread is listing exactly what I want to do, take the whip and accelerometer and use it on my new v3 build.

But I'm having a hard time telling where my wires would get soldered into the board. Since I bought the accelerometer separate and the whip separate, it doesn't have the two white plugin things either, just the main pin connector.

So I need to know how to plug/solder in my heating leads, fans, thermsistor, etc.

Or is it exactly the same as their instructions for their hot end?

If so, anyway I can get around using the white clip pluggin things for the fans since I don't have them?

Here is a picture of how my accelerometer arrived.

[djkirkendall]

The wiring is really simple. The pair marked "HE" goes to your intercooling fan for the heat sink.

The pair marked "part" is for layer fans.

The opposing single lines on the side of the center hole are for the heating cartridge.

The pair next to the Part pair is for the thermister.

There's a pair marked "+" and "-" with a screw hole inbetween, this is a 12VDC tap that be repurposed. I use mine for a 80mm LED light ring. I put kapton tape over the soldered connections to prevent the screw from shorting it out.

You can solder all of the connections directly to the board (through hole). I found soldering them from below makes for a clean installation using the E3D mounting hardware.

This thread has a schematic: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?t=10876

[SonnyDR]

I had to wave the white flag on the HE280. I tried all the tricks and for whatever reason I just couldn't stop that plastic puck from forming under the PTFE tube after a few prints. I wanted it to work because I thought it printed really well but it got it the point I had to remove the PTFE tube after every print to remove plastic. Anyway I also had to go with Ole Reliable the E3D-V6. I ended up ordering the mount from tricklaser.com but the carbon tubes were a little long (I will cut them down later and refit them) but I have another 3D printer and printed out the tubes using this MG-94 High Performance ABS that I got in one of my Maker boxes. I will admit I could have done a better job with the wire management but seriously after all the failures just wanted my machine printing out big stuff already. So far really good.