V3.2 problem

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jlvter
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V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

Hi,
I did the 3.2 upgrade and also upgraded to the 350 watt heated bed last year. Have been amazed how much better, smoother, and quieter the printer is with the upgraded S300 hot end. I have printed over a hundred parts with it. It's been super reliable. Recently I started having known good {-as in previously printed parts} prints fail about 1/4" off the bed. Just No plastic being extruded, I have changed nozzles and run the cleaning filament through the hot end. This has happened with PLA and ABS both.
Any ideas what might be causing this?
geneb
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

Check to make sure that the connectors are properly seated in the SE300. Something might be coming loose. Also, by "fail", what exactly is happening?

g.
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jlvter
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

By fail I mean it just stops laying down plastic. Temperature is good on hot end and bed. There is no noise coming from the ez struder-(like when its too cold down at hotend)
Forgot to mention before that I have run my filament rolls in a dehydrator for over 24 hours to rule out moisture.

I will double check the connectors on hotend.
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

So the extruder just stops and isn't skipping? What's the hot end temp when it stops?

tnx.

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jlvter
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

Gene,
no I was trying to convey that the ez struder is working normally. Not clicking/skipping like when the hot end is too cold. When I have found the failed prints the hot end has been at the set temperature 235 ABS and 215 PLA. according to the software.
jlvter
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

ok,
I checked all connections. I resliced the part in S3D with the Artemis profile I got off this website. All default settings. The part printed about 1/2" off bed this time and stopped extruding plastic again. The hot end was at 235 deg. (according to software) and the ez struder is turning but the filament isnt moving.
geneb
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

"according to software" doesn't tell me much. :) Is that the temperature shown in the web display of the printer, or the temp you set when you sliced the part?

If the EZR is still turning and no filament is coming out, it's likely carved a notch in the filament - do you see that when you pull the filament out of the EZR?

My suspicion is that the connector to the SE300 is becoming partially unseated and cutting power to the heater cartridge. It won't take much of a temperature drop to prevent the EZR from pushing filament.

g.
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

The temp. that is shown on web display of printer shows 235 deg.( also is the set temp. in S3D)
Yes I see a notch on filament from it spinning on it.
geneb
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

So it's probably a hot end jam. You may be printing too quickly for the temperature you're printing at or the filament diameter is wildly out of spec. Do a cold pull on the hot end and make sure you can see all the way through the filament path when you're done. (you should be able to see a little dot of light if you aim a flashlight at the nozzle and look in from the top.) This will ensure you don't have any debris in the filament path.

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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

Gene,
I did 4 different cold pulls bringing heat to 250 c and letting it cool to 100c. I still cannot see light when looking down through filament path with a bright flashlight aimed up through nozzle.
Also tried slowing down to 80% on printing speed-same problem.
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

Yeah, it sounds like you've got some kind of partial clog going on.

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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

Gene,
I disassembled the hot end and cleaned the heat break with .068 drill, reassembled everything, and started over. I deleted the config-override.G file and the heightmap.csv file. I reran the Firstprobe macro. I also replaced the ezr drive gear thinking maybe that was worn.
I tried again printing with the Artemis300 profile off this website. Print failed about 4 layers up.
downloaded the SeeMeCNC Rostock Max v3.2 version 2.fff off this website. Print failed about 5 layers up.
What am I missing?
geneb
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

So before we get any further, when you say you "drilled out" the heat break - were you drilling through a solid chunk of plastic? You realize the heat break has a 2mm bore, right? If you used a drill bit like that to "clean" out the bore, you may have scarred it. You would have been better of torching the thing clear.

Is the fan on the heat sink running?

g.
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

Held drill in a pin vise and hand turned it in until I got all the plastic out-no power.
Fan on heat sink is running.

Ok,
how do I "torch the thing clear" for future reference?
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

You can use a butane torch to burn out PLA. Acetone if ABS. No idea if PETG. :)

Getting melted plastic in the heat break indicates to me that at some point, the heat sink on the fan wasn't running.
When you put it back together, did you make sure the heat sink fan is blowing through the fins of the heat sink? Can you post pics of the hot end assembly?

tnx.

g.
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by jlvter »

Not the best pics..
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20210325_175206_01[1].jpg
20210325_175206_01[1].jpg (2.73 MiB) Viewed 166 times
20210325_175332[1].jpg
20210325_175332[1].jpg (3.09 MiB) Viewed 166 times
geneb
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Re: V3.2 problem

Post by geneb »

So the only thing I can think of at this point is the nozzle face isn't meeting the face of the heat break as it should. The heat break and the nozzle face should meet in the center of the heat block.

The clogged heat break is confusing because that only happens if the "cold section" isn't being properly cooled. The fan should automatically come on when the hot end hits 50C and should be blowing through the heat sink.

g.
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