I had a problem using my stock borosilicate build surface with a PETG part. After printing and letting everything cool completely, the part came off with three chunks of glass attached to it. The plate didn't crack, but there are now three divots of about .4" across and maybe 1/16 " deep in the print bed. This was an unexpected result to say the least. I have purchased a replacement build plate, but now I'm afraid to use it since the last one failed after only a few months. I'd like to use the FabLam Flex™ Spring Steel Bed Plate, but the website says "magnetic plate needed." I can't find any info on this alleged magnetic build plate. Here are my questions:
1. Has anyone else had similar problems with chunks coming out of their borosilicate build surface?
2. Where does one obtain the magnetic build plate that goes with the FabLam Flex™ Spring Steel Bed Plate? Alternatively, where can more information be found?
3. Has anyone used the FabLam Flex™ Spring Steel Bed Plate and do you think it was a worthwhile upgrade?
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Boro Glass Build Plate vs FabLam Flex
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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Re: Boro Glass Build Plate vs FabLam Flex
I've had it happen a few times. On one, I just filled the divots with JB weld, and then put a sheet of PEI over it.
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Re: Boro Glass Build Plate vs FabLam Flex
Yes, PETG can bond too well to glass, see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ro3CdQQUiKo.
When using glass beds, I print on ordinary float glass, not borosilicate. It costs much less and I can get my local glass supplier to cut pieces the right size for me. It's important to have the sharp edges smoothed.
I now print PETG on a PrintBite surface. It has just the right amount of adhesion.
When using glass beds, I print on ordinary float glass, not borosilicate. It costs much less and I can get my local glass supplier to cut pieces the right size for me. It's important to have the sharp edges smoothed.
I now print PETG on a PrintBite surface. It has just the right amount of adhesion.