Hello From Virginia Beach

[Qdeathstar]

Hello I'm Mike From VA beach.

Excited is the word i would use. I had a Replikeo I3 prior to deciding to invest in a Rostock V2. It was OK for what it was, but it suffered a failure when some ABS broke off my print and jammed into the fan, and melted the ABS all the way up the bowden tube! While i was fixing that i discovered that the voltage regulators were melting into the fuses and screw terminals...so i needed a new ramps board. I was able to get it working again, only to find that the Heated Bed had become slightly warped, despite using a MK3 aluminum bed.

I am expecting the SeeMeCNC machine to be a tad more reliable.

Im expecting the kit to be delivered monday.


I am building mine with an e3d v6 and a BondTech QR extruder. I mainly plan to print ABS and PLA, but i want to be able to also try out ninja flex and i heard that the stock extruder isn't well suited for that.

Down the road I would also like to use DC's IR autolevel (or suitable) but there doesn't appear to be many ready made mounts for auto leveling/calibartion. IS it not necessary? I know when i installed it on my replikeo getting it "right" was a lot easier. I am also considering the heat spreader but i want to see if its necessary.

Lastly, on painting it. I am not a great painter. How important is it that the edges of the melamine be painted? Will they warp? If i go at it with a can of spray paint how hard would it be to mess up the "fit" of everything? Any other tips or upgrades you all can suggest for later on down the road i'd appreciate as well.

Thanks!

[Eaglezsoar]

Hello Qdeathstar, and welcome to the forum.
IMHO it is important to paint the edges starting with a primer with shellac in it like Binz, etc. then finish up with your choice of color.
This helps the MDF board not to absorb moisture from the air and possibly swelling the top and bottom beds.

IR and other autoleveling is not quite ready for the Rostock Max v2 but I know they are working on it and in a few months we should have
something from SeeMeCNC that is compatible with the V2. There have been users who have added auto leveling to their machines but it is sporadic.
The best way to find something on the forum is to use Google. Open a google search bar on your browser and enter site:forum.seemecnc.com searchword.
This will find most occurrences of searchword throughout the forum. Take a look at the Duet Card as listed here http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=111&t=9299" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
This card is becoming adopted by some of the Rostock community and I thought you may want to look at it. There are other threads also if you search for Duet.
The Bondtech and the E3D V6 were excellent choices, you have done your homework. Happy building and Happy Printing!

[Windshadow]

Give some thought to first building and using the kit hot end... (I find it much easier to get good results with it using PLA than the e3d...it can be tricky dialing in things like retracts with it) the e3d has been great with the Talman nylon for example... ABS has been fine with both of them so build it and use the SeeMeCNC kit hot end for the PEEK fan shroud and layer shroud in ABS and then work on getting it dialed in for PLA then move on to the excellent e3d for the high temp stuff.this way you will have a hot end you can switch to for PLA anytime you need to print with it

When you picked SeeMeCNC you chose wisely....the gang here is incredible with support and tips and trouble shooting its a grand gang here

one other tip is to printout the assembly manual.... I tried to use it as a PDF on my iPad but I missed several things in the first 50 pages due to loosing my place on the PDF that I had to redo once I saw the error checking my work solar as that point... i know it uses a bunch of printer ink to do it but it really is cheap insurance.... make sure you get the up to date version of Gene's manual I was also using one that was from the month before my kit shipped and got a bit confused (And had to printout another copy of the current version (more epson ink$$$$). stick with Gene and his words and don't try to use assemble to the photos is another good tip.

You are going to have a lot of fun with this build... i know I did and I look forward to my next build next winter just not sure yet what it will be.

[Qdeathstar]

Give some thought to first building and using the kit hot end... (I find it much easier to get good results with it using PLA than the e3d...it can be tricky dialing in things like retracts with it) the e3d has been great with the Talman nylon for example... ABS has been fine with both of them so build it and use the SeeMeCNC kit hot end for the PEEK fan shroud and layer shroud in ABS and then work on getting it dialed in for PLA then move on to the excellent e3d for the high temp stuff.this way you will have a hot end you can switch to for PLA anytime you need to print with it

When you picked SeeMeCNC you chose wisely....the gang here is incredible with support and tips and trouble shooting its a grand gang here

one other tip is to printout the assembly manual.... I tried to use it as a PDF on my iPad but I missed several things in the first 50 pages due to loosing my place on the PDF that I had to redo once I saw the error checking my work solar as that point... i know it uses a bunch of printer ink to do it but it really is cheap insurance.... make sure you get the up to date version of Gene's manual I was also using one that was from the month before my kit shipped and got a bit confused (And had to printout another copy of the current version (more epson ink$$$$). stick with Gene and his words and don't try to use assemble to the photos is another good tip.

You are going to have a lot of fun with this build... i know I did and I look forward to my next build next winter just not sure yet what it will be.

Can i swap out effector assemblies? Maybe i could print a second effector for the E3D after i get the OG up and running. Do the plastic balls stand up ok to repeated change? For the wiringI plan to use some screw on thermistors with a quick disconnect and i ordered some x60 connectors for the hot end. I"ve got some JST connectors for the fans. I plan to mount some LEDS at the top ( i don't see a point in bringing them down to the effector).

[Xenocrates]

You can swap out the effector assemblies, and either print a new one, or buy one on it's own from SeemeCNC. From what I can tell, the balls stand up alright to changes, and Seeme will warranty those for at least a year, and longer at their discretion (I believe that if you were to then buy a new set of balls if they ever said no, that the warranty they offer would cover the new set, so long as you provided the proper purchase # to them)

I agree with you on the screw in thermistors (although I don't use them on my E3D, it being a PT100 build), as well as LED's up top.

Welcome to the forums, and I hope we at least meet your expectations.

[Qdeathstar]

There are several different effector platforms at seemecnc store.. Which one do I need?

[Eaglezsoar]

There are several different effector platforms at seemecnc store.. Which one do I need?

Which arms are you going to use with the new effector?

[Windshadow]

He is a new customer so he need the new plate and 3 of the nylon ball sticks for it for each hot end he wants to be able to quick swap.
http://www.seemecnc.com/collections/par ... all-joints" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (need 3 off for each effector $1 each)
http://www.seemecnc.com/collections/par ... joint-arms" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ($5.00 each
so $8 for each set.
I made a jig to set the point of the nozzle at exactly the same point in the effector for each of my hot end plates to make it easier to swap them.

[Eaglezsoar]

Thanks Windshadow, that should be good.

[Qdeathstar]

Pregaming.

[Xenocrates]

A few things:

If that marine sealant is for the hotend RTV, I doubt it will work, as it's not a high-temp type. Permatex copper is also slightly better for heat transmission than an unfilled RTV. I would go for a threaded thermistor (http://www.amazon.com/Modular-Thermisto ... B00THZJIY8, which requires you tap the hole using something like this http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-2712- ... M3+tap+set, likely with the plug and then bottoming tap). It's more reliable, neater, and faster to replace if needed.

The glow paint is an interesting choice. Not sure it's been done before. I'm interested to see it when it's done.

Wire labels are a good choice. Most commendable.

I don't see Kapton tape on that table. It is definitely needed, as even high temperature electrical tape will not withstand the temps involved (I checked, since I couldn't find Kapton in a local store, only online). I would definitely order it if you haven't.

And finally, the most important thing. I think you'll need a bigger bottle of dew (Unless that shelf is hiding more (It looks like a This end up furniture Co. one BTW, which is interesting to me))

[Qdeathstar]

I had meant to ask about that caulk actually. It says 100% RTV silicone. It says it's rated up to 400degrees F

http://www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/auto ... e-sealant/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Does that sound like it will work?

Oh, and i do have Kapton tape, but it wasn't something i bought just for this. It's laying in a shelf close by.


EDIT:

Seems like your stuff is rated up to 700f and its available at auto zone.... I'll have to make a pit stop as it wasn't available at Home Depot.

[Qdeathstar]

Got the dew's in the fridge. I use the bottom for filament storage. I have a mini-dehumidifier inside to keep things nice and dry.

[Qdeathstar]

Here we go..

[Qdeathstar]

I got all the peices out and shellaced them... I'm a few minutes, I'm gonna paint them (the shellac says I can paint in in one hour)

my hands smell like smoke bbq mmmmm

I don't think the glow affect is going to be that glowy. I did a test on a sheet of paper last night and you really have to hold it under the light for it to charge, and then it's a very dim glow.


too bad they don't still sell that radioactive paint!

[Qdeathstar]

Paint is done, turned out pretty good. I am gonna wait for it to cure a bit before I take out any more of the tape inside the lettering.

[Eaglezsoar]

That paint job looks great!

[Qdeathstar]

So far so good. Lost one of the Rambo mounts last night, spent 1/2hr searching last night and 15 minutes today. Decided to say f' if and put the support plate on without it. Turns out it a bit of the laminate covering was still on the peice and it got stuck to the underside of the base plate. Found it!

[Qdeathstar]

Also, an 11mm socket seems to be the perfect tap to set the bearings in those selves.... I can tap just the outer ring this way.

[Qdeathstar]

Like so:

[Qdeathstar]

Ran into my first issue. Seems like there isn't enough Clarence on the z axis. the wires want to rub against the black belt guide..

[Qdeathstar]

Also, the manual doesn't say how much wire to leave on either end of the extrusions, what's your recommendation on that?

Thanks!

[geneb]

I don't see the depth stop screw in the photo above. Did you install it?

g.

[Qdeathstar]

Yes, it is installed. I am touching it with my rods.

[Qdeathstar]

Maybe you can see the threaded part poking through on the other side in this picture: