Hello from PushPlastic

[PushPlastic]

Hey Guys!

We needed another machine at http://www.pushplastic.com to test out materials, so we just bought a Rostock Max v2!! Excited to assemble this thing and try some crazy new materials on it. What else should we buy to optimize assembly?

Thanks!
Push Plastic

[Windshadow]

With experts like you I am not sure the standard advice to build it stock and learn to use it and idiosyncrasies of delta printer before starting modifications would apply...
the temperature limits of the stock kit hotted will be obvious to you
you might want to consider a 1/8" thick copper or aluminum heat spreader between the heated bed and glass build plate as well as extra build plates to have one setup for each sort of bed surface that you want to test on

setting up your hot end with disconnects to make it easy to change them again would seem to be an obvious step.

but you will find the folks here very helpful with anything you might want to ask.

[Xenocrates]

Depending on what exactly you're testing, a heated enclosure, and a 24V bed might be very useful, as you can find ideal bed temperatures, even if they are high, quickly, and determine optimal chamber temperatures to eliminate warping and cracking while preventing them from drooping or elephant footing.

I also second the heat spreader and quick change hotends, and suggest a PEI surface on at least one bed.

[MrJoe]

The Astrosyn vibration dampers for X, Y and Z stepper motors will make the printer a lot quieter and are easier to install during the build than retrofitting them.

[KAS]

I'm going to go out on a limb and say they might be more interested in a stock machine for testing different filaments.

BUT! if your interested in testing multiple hotends with the Rostock v2, then the quick change hotend board might prove to be valuable.

That way you'll only need to purchase different hotends for the same printer. Should be cheaper in the long run.

http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[PushPlastic]

I'm going to go out on a limb and say they might be more interested in a stock machine for testing different filaments.

BUT! if your interested in testing multiple hotends with the Rostock v2, then the quick change hotend board might prove to be valuable.

That way you'll only need to purchase different hotends for the same printer. Should be cheaper in the long run.

http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=20" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

You bring up a good point... we do want to keep it fairly "stock" so that we can approve some of our filament lines on them. However, we do plan on doing some upgrades that will allow us to achieve higher temps on the extruder and bed.

[PushPlastic]

Depending on what exactly you're testing, a heated enclosure, and a 24V bed might be very useful, as you can find ideal bed temperatures, even if they are high, quickly, and determine optimal chamber temperatures to eliminate warping and cracking while preventing them from drooping or elephant footing.

I also second the heat spreader and quick change hotends, and suggest a PEI surface on at least one bed.

I planned on cobbling together an enclosure from spare parts around here, but do you have any suggestions?

Of course we will have several beds with different surfaces (PC and PEI mainly)

[Xenocrates]

There's both Jfettig's enclosure design, and my modification of Raymond Ma's enclosure on this forums. Both work with the V2 (Raymond's original didn't, thus the modified upper brackets) Jfettigs seems to be more material intensive, but it would have a better seal. Raymonds's is fairly simple, as it has 2 designs in it that you print three each of, rather than an assortment of different parts. It's up to you which you go with.


Jfettig's http://repables.com/r/447/

Modified Raymonds http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=10942 and http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=5530

Take your pick. I am sure Raymond's enclosure can be cut from a single 4X4 sheet of polycarbonate, although I don't know precisely how much poly is needed for Jfettig's. I suggest Polycarbonate over acrylic because it has better IR absorbtion, and is more temp stable, so you can use less power to get a given level of heating, and go hotter. It is also less brittle in thicker sheets, and drills better in my experience. If you have a large format laser cutter, it may be better to go for acrylic, as it will laser cut, where poly will not.

Raymond's chamber is also designed to use blind nuts, where Jfettig's uses corner brackets.