Best electrical connectors to use for easy hot end removal?

[d1rron]

Hello, all!

So I've done a few mods to my Rostock Max V2, one of them being MOLEX connectors to most of my hot end wires (not layer fan, that's coming though) and for my extruder stepper. Anyway, my wire job is functional, but it isn't great. I want to rewire from the top of the machine (after the wires come out of the towers) down to the hot end. I'm just looking for opinion on what the best connector type to use would be for functionality, reliability, and yes even looks -- the MOLEX is a bit ugly. I'm hoping rechecking my wiring and using a more robust connector for the extruder stepper might help in reducing the heat being put out by that stepper. It gets hot to the touch (as in I can keep my finger on it for more than a split second) and sometimes gets the hobbed gear hot enough to gouge the PLA. I realize my issue may not be wiring related at all, but I want to clean it up regardless. I'm also considering trying to make it so that I can have pre-assembled hot ends (I use Prometheus V2) with different nozzles and just drop them in and plug in the connectors for easy swapping.

This is what I've got going on right now: https://i.imgur.com/3fYMpUG.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Any ideas would great! Thanks!

[KAS]

I was using the Yellow jacket quick disconnect board until I broke it. Ended up using the connectors on that board and soldered directly to the pins. Not the most eloquent way, but it's been working great for while now.


Header : http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 43045-1227" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Plug: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 43025-1200" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Pin: http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 30-0001-CT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Disregard the image as both the plug and header have 12 positions.

[Jimustanguitar]

You can always use Glenn's YellowJacket board. I love mine.

To make other high temp/current connections, I've used "knarps" from the BMX shop. They're a big exposed chunk of metal that you don't want to short out, but wrapping them in kapton and arranging them nicely has proven to be a nice and reliable connection for me.
[img]http://i.imgur.com/Lp4xi1M.png[/img]

[geneb]

There's no reason to use those huge Molex connectors. I use 4 pin latching connectors for my hot end quick-change rigs as shown here:
http://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Max+Ha ... connect/32" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - look at how I did the wiring. I'd recommend going with travelphotog's quick change kit instead of using the F-F hex spacers though. His stuff looks a LOT nicer.

g.

[KAS]

There's no reason to use those huge Molex connectors. I use 4 pin latching connectors for my hot end quick-change rigs as shown here:
http://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Max+Ha ... connect/32" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; - look at how I did the wiring. I'd recommend going with travelphotog's quick change kit instead of using the F-F hex spacers though. His stuff looks a LOT nicer.

g.

It's not as big as it looks in the photo. Measuring at 18mm x 6mm.

[geneb]

That's a huge 4 pin Molex connector he's using. I wasn't referring to the one on the Yellowjacket board.

g.

[KAS]

My apologies, I didn't even see his picture.

[geneb]

Bad Kas, no donut!

g.

[d1rron]

Wow, thanks for the replies! All of those ideas seem like an improvement over my Molex connectors. I guess I just wasn't sure that latching connectors would be sufficient, but obviously they are! I'll definitely have to take a look at that Yellowjacket board, too.

[The Rigger]

I use 4 pin latching connectors for my hot end quick-change rigs as shown here:
http://seemecnc.dozuki.com/Guide/Max+Ha ... connect/32" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Me too... Really, you can use any modular connector sold for use in R/C models for connecting their servos to the radio-control brains.