E3D V6 wobble

[TFMike]

I have been using 626pilot's e3d v6 mount on my orion and I had substantial wobble. I i thought baout reprinting another one and sticking some tape to it to add a bit more size and hopefully enough friction to stop or at least minimize the wobble. After looking at my hotend and thinking back to how much of a pain it was to take it apart I decided against that idea and decided to go for broke, here is the result:

[img]https://i.imgur.com/me6psym.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/VbKGq1b.jpg[/img]

I have never had a print this smooth in PLA, much less ABS. I was shocked at the result and I still am. How did I do it? Simple, I tied the bare metal wire used in the rostock max kit (for pulling the other wires through the extrusions) around the tiny gap between e3d v6 and the printed mount. I looped it once, tied it, then I looped it again as best I could, I then grabbed a a pair of needlenose pliars and just twisted until I couldn't twist anymore and voila. Most ghetto solution ever but I don't care.

Parts were printed using (I believe) Makerfarm ABS @ 220-225/80 55mm/sec for both of the pieces featured, before and after the wire trick.

PS, if anyone wants a pic of the little wire setup I will try my best to take one.

[stonewater]

I am more interested in WHY it was wobbling.... pilot will probably want to know also. if there was a problem with the width of the groove or the tolerances are off he needs to know.
Tom C

[TFMike]

I printed this with 100 percent infill on a printrbot simple metal: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:137140" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I mounted one to my rostock and one to my orion - the one on the rostock curled up a bit during the print and ironically that warp is reducing wobble, the one on the orion printed perfectly and thus required my wire ghetto fix. Do you have one by chance that you can test fit?

[626Pilot]

There are two versions of my E3D mount, one for version 5 and the other for version 6. If you use the older one on a version 6 hot end, it will wobble because (for reasons I cannot understand) they changed the mounting profile.

[TFMike]

There are two versions of my E3D mount, one for version 5 and the other for version 6. If you use the older one on a version 6 hot end, it will wobble because (for reasons I cannot understand) they changed the mounting profile.

I used the v6 mount, just had to do the wire trick for my rostock max as well.

[626Pilot]

I don't know how to explain that. My mount fits on my V6 hot end and I don't have to use any shims or get any wobble.

[TFMike]

I don't know how to explain that. My mount fits on my V6 hot end and I don't have to use any shims or get any wobble.

Got a pic? I'll try and take some of mine so you can see the wire and tiny gap.

EDIT: [img]https://i.imgur.com/bGMXdfv.jpg[/img]

[626Pilot]

There is a noticeable gap between the hot end and the hole in the top plate. This suggests to me that the filament flow was too low. It should require moderate effort to seat both plates. If either goes on easy, it's too loose. If you have to print the part again, increase the flow. I don't have any wobble. I can press the hot end from the side and there's no play in any direction, at all. Unless E3D sent you a hot end with different diameters than mine, it will work fine.

It's also worth mentioning that the hot end fan should be hot wired. If the hot end runs for even a few minutes without that fan, the mount will soften and then there will definitely be wobble.

[RocketMagnet]

Either I'm missing something or is it simply a small gap at the bottom your filling in with your wire "washer"?...
If I'm not then why not just scale it up by the required per cent in the relevant direction in Repetier Host and print it out again? (Presumably Z Axis looking at the item)

Different ABS/PLA sources and infill percentages will impact shrinkage so for really accurate tolerances you need print, measure, adjust, print IME.
I do it all the time... just assumed inherent and it was part of the process for anything requiring very accurate dimensions.

[TFMike]

Either I'm missing something or is it simply a small gap at the bottom your filling in with your wire "washer"?...
If I'm not then why not just scale it up by the required per cent in the relevant direction in Repetier Host and print it out again? (Presumably Z Axis looking at the item)

Different ABS/PLA sources and infill percentages will impact shrinkage so for really accurate tolerances you need print, measure, adjust, print IME.
I do it all the time... just assumed inherent and it was part of the process for anything requiring very accurate dimensions.

Read up on how I didn't want to take my hot end apart because it was such a pain in the ass. I could have imported the model into inventor and added a hair to its top and reprinted it but this worked fine.

[Tincho85]

Yup! it's slightly different, 0.4mm

V5 vs V6:

Made this mount some time ago and it's working fine.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:685582

[626Pilot]

It may be that the filament I used has more die swell, making the top layer "taller". It could also be a difference in layer height. If I print at 0.1 and it comes out perfect, but someone else prints it at .15 or .25 (or some other height that 0.1 doesn't divide evenly into) the slicer may have to skip a layer. I don't think slicers make partial-height top layers.

[TFMike]

It may be that the filament I used has more die swell, making the top layer "taller". It could also be a difference in layer height. If I print at 0.1 and it comes out perfect, but someone else prints it at .15 or .25 (or some other height that 0.1 doesn't divide evenly into) the slicer may have to skip a layer. I don't think slicers make partial-height top layers.

What filament, what slicer what temps and settings? Im using some dirt cheap pla and .2 or .3 layer heights on a printrbot simple metal with cura.

[626Pilot]

The filament is whatever I have around, but always PLA. Probably SainSmart non-translucent red because that always flows like butter for me. I always measure the filament diameter in 10 places and put the average into the slicer. Layer heights would usually be 0.1. I use KISSlicer because it's fast as hell and generates really good toolpaths.

[lordbinky]

To remove any wiggle I have in my hotend I'll add a little hot glue which is easy enough to remove later.