I've seen some neat prints lately that used multiple colors, and the trick that the guy was using was to click the pause button, jog the machine up a few ticks, change the filament, jog the machine back down, and resume the print with a new color.
Instead of waiting until the right layer, and doing this process manually, how would I do this with GCode? I want to do this without having to watchdog my prints. I also usually print from SD, so I'd love to not have to run a USB cable across my room. Any tips?
[img]https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... e=568CD6C4[/img]
[img]https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... e=5695ED16[/img]
[img]https://fbcdn-photos-b-a.akamaihd.net/h ... 473c365478[/img]
[img]https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... e=568C1F53[/img]
How to edit GCode to add a pause for changing filament color
- Jimustanguitar
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Re: How to edit GCode to add a pause for changing filament c
Repetier-Host will pause if you add @pause to the gcode. You can swap the filament while it's paused and then resume the print.
Re: How to edit GCode to add a pause for changing filament c
Here is what I do. It is at the end of this post. You can just copy and paste the gcode.
Hope that helps.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=6789" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Hope that helps.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=66&t=6789" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Orion to Cartesian http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=7808" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- lightninjay
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Re: How to edit GCode to add a pause for changing filament c
I use a bit of a convoluted and manual system to do this, but it allows me extreme precision with my filament changes and other settings changes.
In a nutshell, I make separate gcode files for each portion of the print. You start off with the full gcode file, and then cut and paste the portion that begins at the layer you want the pause to occur at, into another text file and save it as a second gcode. I modify my header for the second file to ensure that the nozzle doesn't come crashing down into the print during the usual lower and prime, and modify the footer of my first file to make sure the machine essentially finishes the print, but does not reset and does not lower the temp of the heated bed or nozzle.
What I end up with is something that looks like this when observed in a gcode editor
This particular print, I had the gcode separated so I could then insert two spheres that had previously been printed. If the print hadn't broken loose from the bed, it would've been perfect, but as it stands, I still ended up with a pretty cool print.
Admittedly, this workflow is not exactly ideal, and is kind of clunky, but you really only need to do it once to create your separate gcodes, then you can change the filament to any color you want and print the separate files as many times as you want.
I actually use this particular method to do things such as change the infill midprint (by splicing together two different gcodes, first half being for instance 20% infill, and the second half being 100%) and I have also had success with printing ninjaflex on top of PLA for the endpin of my electric cello (which is quite close to being completely finished by the way).
Hope any of this could be of some help Jim!
In a nutshell, I make separate gcode files for each portion of the print. You start off with the full gcode file, and then cut and paste the portion that begins at the layer you want the pause to occur at, into another text file and save it as a second gcode. I modify my header for the second file to ensure that the nozzle doesn't come crashing down into the print during the usual lower and prime, and modify the footer of my first file to make sure the machine essentially finishes the print, but does not reset and does not lower the temp of the heated bed or nozzle.
What I end up with is something that looks like this when observed in a gcode editor
This particular print, I had the gcode separated so I could then insert two spheres that had previously been printed. If the print hadn't broken loose from the bed, it would've been perfect, but as it stands, I still ended up with a pretty cool print.
Admittedly, this workflow is not exactly ideal, and is kind of clunky, but you really only need to do it once to create your separate gcodes, then you can change the filament to any color you want and print the separate files as many times as you want.
I actually use this particular method to do things such as change the infill midprint (by splicing together two different gcodes, first half being for instance 20% infill, and the second half being 100%) and I have also had success with printing ninjaflex on top of PLA for the endpin of my electric cello (which is quite close to being completely finished by the way).
Hope any of this could be of some help Jim!
If at first you don't succeed, you're doing something wrong. Try again, and if it fails again, try once more. Through trial and error, one can be the first to accomplish something great.