end stop screws backwards. Stuck on paper width across plate

[craftymethod]

[rostock v2)

So I was a bit silly and installed my end stop screws backwards.

Im now calibrating my machine and it seems there is a paper width in the center ofthe build plate but on the outer edges of the plate seem to want to come in contact with the nozzle. pretty sure the plate is flat!

[craftymethod]

I guess im not 100% sure what the end stop adjustment screws are. are they the ones stopping the towers from falling down further?

[Captain Starfish]

Look up the printer radius calibration: Classic symptom of not quite matched model constant vs reality.

[Jimustanguitar]

The endstop adjustment screws are what click the snap switches (limit switches, or endstops) at the top of each tower. They adjust whether or not the printer will print level with the build plate.

If your hot-end is high in the middle and low on the perimeter, Cap'n's right adjust your horizontal radius as outlined in the manual.

[craftymethod]

thanks guys. I got clearence all round but decided to tighten my first z zero so it would be a closer fit to the paper but it seems i cant screw out to get clearence all the way around the glass anymore.

that first z .0.0 you do on the machine isnt allowed to be too close?

[Captain Starfish]

if you can get the three outside drops to paper-spaced off the glass but the centre is too high - which is what it sounds like in your first post - then you still need to sort out your printer radius. Adjust the three outer ones and go to the middle, if it's not the same then adjust the printer radius in the EEPROM and repeat from scratch until all four measurements are the same.

All the 0.0s should be a paper width above the glass when everything's up to temperature.

[craftymethod]

I got the z o.o good and then got the towers in but after that the control alt 4 was 2 mil in the air. the horizontal radious didnt seem to do anything! (i was increasing it)

[guanu]

if the nozzle goes up at all towers in relation to the center, you want to lower horizontal radius in the eeprom...

[craftymethod]

I I went and redid the central Z and got the other 3 points good but the central Z sliped up a little. its touching the paper but with literally 0 pressure on it. I fear its slightly high.

adjusting the horizontal radius down didnt seem to do anything up until the point i was jumping bigish numbers and it screwed the tower points.

Fingers crossed its enough!

[craftymethod]

I didnt read the following paragraph... I need to keep cycling the process. (will try minor up ajustments again)

[teoman]

If your screws are backwards that means you will not be able to use them.

There was a recent thread where you basically used the eeprom to adjust the offset instead of doing it mechanically...

I will post the link ince I am in front of the computer. On a phone it is a PITA.

[teoman]

Either this will solve your screw situation
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=5906" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or I have failed to understand anything from what you said.

[RegB]

If your screws are backwards that means you will not be able to use them.

There was a recent thread where you basically used the eeprom to adjust the offset instead of doing it mechanically...

I will post the link ince I am in front of the computer. On a phone it is a PITA.

Matter Control's "Automatic Print Leveling" seems to do it that way - but it also seems to foul things up if you later switch back to Repetier_Host )-;

So BE CAREFUL with MatterControl's Automatic Print Leveling feature, I am fairly sure that it messes with the EEPROM in a way that interferes with the assumptions that Repetier_Host relies on.

[geneb]

Actually, MC doesn't touch the EEPROM. It remembers the calibration it did between settings. When you run MC and slice with it, it applies those calibration settings.

g.

[RegB]

Thanks Gene,
Probably just aNOTHER instance of me messing with a dozen variables at once and blaming the wrong one for the outcome (-:

[geneb]

Also know that the MC auto-level feature isn't meant for use on delta printers.

g.

[GPriv]

I'm a bit stuck on page 235 of the manual.

i finally got thru it, but this page is all wonky with its instructions.

[GPriv]

...by the way, my interface looks like this: (I guess it is the updated version?)

[Mac The Knife]

I believe buttons 1 through 5 are where the scripts get loaded,,,,,

[teoman]

THe procedure is done multiple times up to dozens or more times using the scripts.

However, as the device has not been calibrated yet. You want to start is slowly. And by slowly i mean, you want the nozzle to be a bit off the heated bed so you dont hit it.

So to answer your question, you enter those commands one by one.
G28 is home the axes, you either type that and press enter, or you can click the home button.

THe other command, as you will notice is very similar to the script. I will explain:

G0 this means that this is a GO TO command
Z5 means, your Z height, nozzle height from the bed is 5mm
X0, means your x location is 0
Y90, 90mm on the y axis
F3500 is the speed.


So, to cut it short.
Click home,
copy paste : G0 Z5 X0 Y90 F3500 and issue the command. YOu will notice that it ends up 5mm above the glass.

Then as the manual says, slowly lower it down untill you reach Z = 0. If you touch the glass before you should andjust the screw. Now you are sure you will not be ramming the hotend in to the plate. (this will be close to one of the towers, repeat for the other 2 towers) and you can basically do the same procedure over and over again using the scripts.



Hope that makes sense. And i was able to explain it.

[GPriv]

Okay...thanx!
I'm getting thru this, but having difficulty with certain aspects.
Let me see if I can explain my problems:

let me read some more, then I'll make notes. Thanx! again.

[GPriv]

I entered the scripts as described (to get to the G-code editor with my interface I go to PREVIEW tab, then enter as described in instructions).

I now understand (thanx to you) that every line is its own command. I knew that g28 is home.

I did the first g0 (thanx for explanation here) Z5 X0 y90 f3500.
And then lowered the Z 1 mm at a time. The result was at 0 (as per info window) the nozzle was safely above the glass. Right.
Onward: G28. Home. go z5 x77.94 y-45 Bummer. the nozzle hits the glass on the last 1mm. SO... this, I presume is the Y axis problem. I screw the limiter screw atop the Y "universal carriage" 2 full turns clockwise (I'm tightening it, thus raising the travel for the carriage to go home, yes?).

[GPriv]

I got it!

Thank you for the explanation of the what the actual "code" means and does. THIS is important.

I can fine-tune the limiter screw now simply by clicking HOME then pasting the command and clicking it, over and over.
I get that I do not need to extremely fine tune just yet.

[GPriv]

BTW-
is the bed and hot end supposed to be at operating temp while doing these adjustments????

[teoman]

Let us know if you need anything further.

It would be a good idea to note the axees now.

X0 y0 being the center.

X direction should be to the right (when you are sitting in front of the machine)

And Y direction away from you.