Failed print now printed parts just break apart
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- Printmaster!
- Posts: 68
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Failed print now printed parts just break apart
Hi everyone!
So I have been trying to print this model paint holder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000772. The first time I tried to print it the print became separated and giant blob formed.
I cleaned it up and tried again last night and it looked ok until I touched the print and could just about push my finger through it. The print is ultra fragile layers just pull apart. I printed with 30% infill with Simplify 3d.
Any ideas were to start?
Settings
Pla
Medium Quality
30%infill
190 hotend
60 bed
These settings have worked perfectly for everything I have printed thus far.
So I have been trying to print this model paint holder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1000772. The first time I tried to print it the print became separated and giant blob formed.
I cleaned it up and tried again last night and it looked ok until I touched the print and could just about push my finger through it. The print is ultra fragile layers just pull apart. I printed with 30% infill with Simplify 3d.
Any ideas were to start?
Settings
Pla
Medium Quality
30%infill
190 hotend
60 bed
These settings have worked perfectly for everything I have printed thus far.
- Tincho85
- Printmaster!
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- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2013 12:27 pm
- Location: Buenos Aires, Argentina
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
If your layers won't adhere to each other I would try increasing the temperature.
Check this video, it's a good and simple test to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POaL2GGBHGM
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POaL2GGBHGM[/youtube]
Share a picture if you can, it could also be a partially clogged nozzle... or the layer cooling fans are too powerful... or you are printing too fast.
Check this video, it's a good and simple test to do.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POaL2GGBHGM
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POaL2GGBHGM[/youtube]
Share a picture if you can, it could also be a partially clogged nozzle... or the layer cooling fans are too powerful... or you are printing too fast.
Martín S.
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- Printmaster!
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Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
I would also check to see if your extruder is blocked... After it is heated up extrude 10cm of filament a few times and make sure it extruders freely without any pesky clicks...
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- Printmaster!
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Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
Discovered the ezstruder is grinding filament. Apparently this is common with the .35 nozzel.
What would fix this a fan or heatsink?
What would fix this a fan or heatsink?
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- ULTIMATE 3D JEDI
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- Joined: Wed Sep 23, 2015 2:55 pm
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
Some things can help with the issue:
Increase print temp (Except PLA, until you get to a slightly nuts PLA temp, it doesn't help_
heatsink/lower current to extruder stepper. Basically, you want to reduce the heat on the extruder motor.
Reduce printing speed.
Larger nozzle size
The name of the game is to make the properties of the filament match what's needed to move it. Increasing print temp, lowering speed, and a larger nozzle will reduce back pressure. The cooler extruder motor will keep the filament harder until it gets past where much of the strain is.
I personally like the Bondtech QR, which through having two drive gears, can side-step many of the issues, but it's not cheap. You might also have success with a higher spring force, or the EZR-struder, which is newly released from SeemeCNC.
Increase print temp (Except PLA, until you get to a slightly nuts PLA temp, it doesn't help_
heatsink/lower current to extruder stepper. Basically, you want to reduce the heat on the extruder motor.
Reduce printing speed.
Larger nozzle size
The name of the game is to make the properties of the filament match what's needed to move it. Increasing print temp, lowering speed, and a larger nozzle will reduce back pressure. The cooler extruder motor will keep the filament harder until it gets past where much of the strain is.
I personally like the Bondtech QR, which through having two drive gears, can side-step many of the issues, but it's not cheap. You might also have success with a higher spring force, or the EZR-struder, which is newly released from SeemeCNC.
Machines:
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Rostock Max V2, Duet .8.5, PT100 enabled E3D V6 and volcano, Raymond style enclosure
Automation Technology 60W laser cutter/engraver
1m X-carve router
Sic Transit Gloria Mundi
01-10011-11111100001
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
You have set the slicer to a .35 nozzle?
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- Printmaster!
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Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
Yep everything is set correctly in simplify 3d. Printed 4 large prints and no problem prior to last print that peeled up and wrapped around the hot end.. Noticed the hob was filled with pla shavings must have built up during the prints.
Waiting for a new hotend with .5 tip mayb this will fix the problem.
Waiting for a new hotend with .5 tip mayb this will fix the problem.
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
Isn't a .5 nozzle standard equipment with the kit? It was when I did mine.
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Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
I bought mine used and .5 tip was ruined so I threw the .35 on.
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
The lower the nozzle diameter, the slower the print speed. For a .35, I wouldn't go much higher than 30mm/sec.
g.
g.
Delta Power!
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Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
If the print is a bit crunchy that indicates under extrusion.
I had that problem and needed so solve it fast. It was a bit complicated for me untill i found the cause.
Too much resistance extruding, if you cannot manually (by turning with your hand) extrude then you have a problem with the bowden tube or the nozzle.
I did not mess with the motor as i also ended up grinding the filament when spinning the knob on the extruder.
I increased the temp of the hotend to the max. This helped a little bit.
I put olive oil on the filament thinking that it was the bowden tube that was problematic. It did help a little (and my problems were appearing about 2-5 cm from the bottom of the print so i thought resistance in the bowden tube). You do not need to use any oil in the tube. Some do but the gurus do not recommend it. Olive oil does remove the paint/coloring/pigments from the filament. I dont use it anymore.
But the problems quickly reappeared. I switched to a bigger nozzle. Which only helped a little bit more.
Going much slower also helped a little bit.
With all of these i was able to get the parts done, they were still not really good. But with glue, tape, shit and shizzle i was able to use them.
Finally i took the hotend apart (standard seemecnc). And the piece of teflon tube inside the hotend had burned and was swollen. I replaced that with a new piece of tube (identical to the long bowden tube) and it started working again.
I had that problem and needed so solve it fast. It was a bit complicated for me untill i found the cause.
Too much resistance extruding, if you cannot manually (by turning with your hand) extrude then you have a problem with the bowden tube or the nozzle.
I did not mess with the motor as i also ended up grinding the filament when spinning the knob on the extruder.
I increased the temp of the hotend to the max. This helped a little bit.
I put olive oil on the filament thinking that it was the bowden tube that was problematic. It did help a little (and my problems were appearing about 2-5 cm from the bottom of the print so i thought resistance in the bowden tube). You do not need to use any oil in the tube. Some do but the gurus do not recommend it. Olive oil does remove the paint/coloring/pigments from the filament. I dont use it anymore.
But the problems quickly reappeared. I switched to a bigger nozzle. Which only helped a little bit more.
Going much slower also helped a little bit.
With all of these i was able to get the parts done, they were still not really good. But with glue, tape, shit and shizzle i was able to use them.
Finally i took the hotend apart (standard seemecnc). And the piece of teflon tube inside the hotend had burned and was swollen. I replaced that with a new piece of tube (identical to the long bowden tube) and it started working again.
When on mobile I am brief and may be perceived as an arsl.
Re: Failed print now printed parts just break apart
Oh, measure your filament aswell.
Had the same happen when i was experimenting with factory reject filament, which suddenly increased in size to 2mm.
Had the same happen when i was experimenting with factory reject filament, which suddenly increased in size to 2mm.
When on mobile I am brief and may be perceived as an arsl.