V3 build

[Twac1]

Anyone have any tips on the V3? I am building the top half now.

[Eaglezsoar]

Most of us do not have the Version 3 yet, anyone that does is welcome to jump in and answer.

[Noircogi]

What is the question?

The number one thing is to make sure you remove the metal tabs from the limit switches before you assemble the top base plate.

If you already assembled it and didn't remove them, take out the two screws below each tower and reach int with needle nose pliers to pop them off.

The second thing is that the bed heating is really anemic in the stock configuration. Mine would never go over @95C without a washcloth on the bed. You can turn the power supply output voltage up to 14V and it will eventually hit 100C but still takes a long time. (That keeps you below the 15A bed heater fuse limit). I measured my Onyx with a high-end multimeter and it is 0.92 Ohms. Power measurements also bear out that number. That's a lot lower than I've read other places for the Onyx btw.

I ended up buying a 600W 24V PS, a Crydom 40A DC/DC solid state relay to drive the bed and a 20A 12V step-down regulator to drive everything else.

Turn the voltage on the power supply down to 20.5V to limit the bed heating to around 450W and make sure to put a fuse on that circuit. Now it will go from 25C to 100C in about 3 minutes.

DO NOT buy a Fotek or SHZE SSR, even with a heatsink, thermal paste and good airflow they will heat up and fail very shortly (I know from experience). When they fail, they fail in the "ON" state so it's a fire hazard. Luckily I was watching closely. They have far too high of internal resistance to meet their spec in any reasonable install. Get a MOSTFET-based one like a Crydom or Auber with an ON resistance of around 0.006 ohms or so.

I ended up buying a 40A Crydom from Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/product-search/ ... =CC1860-ND which doesn't even get warm during use (with heatsink and airflow), but I believe the much cheaper Auber 100A has similar impedance: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... cts_id=288

I mounted the SSR on its heatsink in the front of the base, right behind the front panel. I cut a small hole in that panel so it, the power supply and the regulator get great airflow from the stock base fan. The regulator is slightly behind and to the right of the SSR. It seems to stay fairly cool during operation as well. The power supply is mounted in the stock location. It's slightly wider than the stock one, so you need to just screw it to the base plate,

The only down-side is that idle power (at the wall) went from 11W to 18W due to the new PS and the step-down regulator.

THese are the other parts I'm using:
Heatsink: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ARBA02A/re ... R+heatsink
Regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BW ... UTF8&psc=1
Fuse holder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ ... UTF8&psc=1
Power supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019R ... UTF8&psc=1
Thermal pase: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-STG1-S ... rmal+paste
I used a small terminal block to connect the 12V wiring to the output of the regulator.

The power supply seems to be working great so far even though it's a cheap one.

I used some #8 x 3/8" sheet metal screws to attach those parts inside the base plate.

[Twac1]

Finished build

[Noircogi]

Congrats!

[Twac1]

Hey Noircogi

Thanks for the help! I got the kit on Friday and it took me 26 hours to build. first 3D printer, only thing I had an issue with was some missing screws and the feet for the unit. I could not wait for a week to get parts, so I used small door stops from the local hardware store. also from the instructions on installing the bed it said to put the mounts with the injection marks up, but with the glass on mine stuck up way to far, so I flipped them and added buildtak to the glass.. it is perfectly flush now. printed the calibration box and my bed was almost a little to hot, took it down to 55c. we will see what the second print does. also about 15 min in to my first print the LCD did whats shown in the pic, waited till the print finished and power cycled, and it came back to normal?

[geneb]

The instructions for the bed mount are correct. The glass is not supposed to be perfectly flush - it sticks up about 1/16" above the surface of the base plate.
Understand that what you've done may work for you, but that's not how it was supposed to be assembled.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

The instructions for the bed mount are correct. The glass is not supposed to be perfectly flush - it sticks up about 1/16" above the surface of the base plate.
Understand that what you've done may work for you, but that's not how it was supposed to be assembled.

g.

Gene, I have 5/16 aluminum heat spreaders on my V2 printers, from what you have said it sounds like they will not work with the V3.
Is this true?

[geneb]

Correct. I'd skip the heat spreader anyway. The new Onyx is half the thickness of the old one and may heat more evenly.

That being said, there's nothing stopping you from adding a nylon bushing or stack of washers under the clips to help them clear the spreader height.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

Correct. I'd skip the heat spreader anyway. The new Onyx is half the thickness of the old one and may heat more evenly.

That being said, there's nothing stopping you from adding a nylon bushing or stack of washers under the clips to help them clear the spreader height.

g.

Good tip with the washers or spacers to clear the increased height of the glass, thanks!