Temperature Calibration?

[Tahazu Designs]

I'm using a Rostock MAX V2

I just finished a 19hour print @ 228°. Everything went great. I attempted to run the second part and something strange happened. The hotend temp only climbed up to 218°. I figured the kp, ki, kd calibration somehow skewed off. So I ran the calibration command. I input the new parameters. I attempted to preheat the hotend to 228° again and the same thing happened. 218°! I then tried preheating to 218° to see if the 10° offset was consistent. Sure enough, the hotend only heated up to 208°.

Am I missing something? What else can I do to get this hotend to heat up to the target number?

[Mac The Knife]

Does the readout show the correct temperature and you are measuring the temperature at the nozzle and finding the 10 degree discrepancy?

[Tahazu Designs]

No. The temperature being displayed within Matter Control & the digital display on the machine is showing a 10° discrepancy.

[thingismith]

No. The temperature being displayed within Matter Control & the digital display on the machine is showing a 10° discrepancy.

Are you saying you're getting 2 different readings of actual temps, or that there's still a 10 deg difference between target and actual for mattercontrol and the display?

[Tahazu Designs]

I set it to preheat to 228° within Matter Control. The hotend will reach 118° and will not continue rising.

IF I set it to preheat to 118° within Matter Control, the hotend will only reach 108° and will not continue rising.

It seems to be a constant 10° difference below w/e the target temp is set to reach.

[KAS]

Have you looked at the gcode by chance? Just to make sure, it's not something goofy in Matter Control.

Can you pre-heat to expected temps via the LCD?


also, when the printer is cold. Does the heated bed and hotend roughly display the same temps?

[thingismith]

Maybe try upping your kp a bit (if autotune has it at ~20, bring it up to 25) and see if the problem persists. If this works, maybe try handtuning your PID, I recommend this guide http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 91#p104691

If you have an E3d v6, maybe upgrade to their new copper block...since I got mine, my temp holding has been awesome.

[Tahazu Designs]

Okay so, I noticed another element here.

If I heat up the hotend only, it'll reach temperature (228°). If I heat up both the bed and the hotend, I the temp wont reach target. It'll only go up to 118°. I didn't have this problem before... Would this be due to the power supply being insufficient?

[Tahazu Designs]

I gotta tell ya.... I freaking despise this machine. Ever since the 1st day I had it assembled I have had nothing but issues. In the past year, I've only been able to successfully print maybe 4 times. FOUR!! I'm irritated to the point where I'm about to throw this god damn thing in the trash and buy something else.

[thingismith]

I have a v2 as well, and am able to constantly print both bed and hotend at high temps (90 bed, 250 HE). Did you try my suggestion?

[Mac The Knife]

I gotta tell ya.... I freaking despise this machine. Ever since the 1st day I had it assembled I have had nothing but issues. In the past year, I've only been able to successfully print maybe 4 times. FOUR!! I'm irritated to the point where I'm about to throw this god damn thing in the trash and buy something else.

I would recommend ditching Mattercontrol before ditching the printer. Download and install Repetier instead. I tried mattercontrol when SeeMeCNC dropped Repetier and started pushing Mattercontrol. After the third update, which always seemed to fix one problem and create another, I went back to Repetier.

[Xenocrates]

Also, a consistent (Or relatively consistent) temperature offset points at a bad PID tune. Most likely a bad I parameter.

If you're using the ATX (computer style if you're not familar) power supply, it may be a bad PSU, and seeme will likely replace it. If it's the rail type, I would adjust the voltage upwards to 13.5-14V, or else to a true loaded voltage of at least 12V. If it still doesn't work, contact Seeme for a replacement power supply. Note that you really should be using a multimeter for trouble shooting this. If you don't have one, the 30$ harbor freight works, although I heavily suggest one of the cheap Fluke DMMs such as the 115-B, 117, or one of the chinese models. Additional features such as PWM recognition while useful for this (To see if it's a PID or a voltage/heater issue), are expensive enough to be unlikely to be worth it unless you already own a meter with them.

If it's inconsistent, or there's a top temp you can reach, the heater resistors may be going bad. I would replace the resistors with a ceramic cartridge if you've got any machining experience (Enough to drill a hole and not break a tap. I did it with a hand drill and a wrench once, since I was too lazy to find a small enough tap handle and follower for the drill press). Note that hosts have no effect on temperatures, however, one such as repetier-host or Octoprint which show temperature graphs can help with the PID tuning process (autotune as done in Repetier firmware is rather error prone. Hand tunes or feed-forward models as found in recent Duet firmware are more stable, but take more experience to get working).