Getting Nylon to stick to the bed.

[CJGerard]

I started experimenting with nylon a few days ago and for the most part i like it alot.

The one problem i am having with it is getting it to stick to the bed. I have tried glue sticks, tape (white and blue), cardboard, double sided sticky tape, cotton fabric, canvas, and burlap. i have also tried having the bed heated and un-heated on each new attempt. Is there anything else i can try to get the nylon to stick to the bed consistently and stay flat?

[dpmacri]

I haven't printed with nylon yet, so take this for what it's worth .

I read somewhere that garolite (I thnk it's the stuff that PCBs are made from) works well. Also, I expect Cope will have suggestions for you.

[bubbasnow]

on glass i use hairspray and 60c

[cope413]

70C bed, glue stick, 4mm brim. 265C hot end temp. For best results, don't print lower than .20mm. .35+ layers give much better adhesion and nylon still gives good resolution at higher layer heights.

Garolite is awesome and requires no heat, but there are two main issues.

1) it's tough to find affordable sheets that are level/flat

2) parts stick so well that you can easily damage your part or your garolite trying to remove it.

I'll be posting a video all about nylon, dying, drying, and bed adhesion this weekend.

Let me know if you have troubles and post your settings. Once you get nylon dialed in, you won't want to print with anything else again.

[Flateric]

UHU glue stick on glass here for me too, sometimes have troubles betting it off. But no peel.

Oh, I use a bed temp of 35-40c.

[CJGerard]

Thank you guys for such a quick response,

I guess i should have included a little more info on my build setup when i did the original post, my Max has a stock seemecnc hotend and a aluminum build plate. (my glass broke the first time i heated the bed)

Right now i've had the most success on small prints with the following setup: I have burlap double sided sticky taped and clipped to the build-plate with no heat. My hotend is running at about 230c with a 40mm/s print speed and a .5mm layer height. This gives me a nice slick finish that i really like. The layers are also bonded together really well (I have to use a hammer to smash/stretch the nylon so it will de-laminate)

On large prints my edges curl so much that they stretch the burlap and pull it free of the sticky tape. Then i cancel the print. so i haven't had a successful large print yet.


I researched garolite and there are 2 methods of making it. One is a compressed form that is filled with fibers in no particular order and the other is made with a fiberglass cloth and resin which is really similar to carbon fiber. As far as getting it flat, all my research said that it was easily machinable. So i should be able to get it flat by lapping it on my surface pate.

All my research on garolite got me wandering about making my own build plate out of aluminum and fiberglass. When i made my replacement build plate i also made 3 spares and since im also working on my corvette right now i have alot of fiberglass materials in my basement. So before i break down and order the garolite, im gonna give making my own a shot out of one of my spare plates. I've also had an idea about making an inline drier for the nylon, because for some reason i thing i am getting lucky with not having to dry it right now. I will probably start working on that idea in the next few weeks.


Thank you again for everyone's help and i look forward to seeing your video Cope.

[CJGerard]

Ok, so i've been experimenting and i have discovered that, plain felt taped to the bed works really well for me. Plus its super cheap!

[jmick]

I talked to Taulman and they told me to try this:

Elmers white glue spread on 80C bed and then drop to 50C to print. Keep it at 50C while printing then jump back up to 80 to 90C to release part when done printing. (note: not the school elmers but the white glue by Elmers)
Spread a very thin layer of the glue with an old credit card, it doesn't take much.