Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimeter.
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Since I removed the axle clips (in favor of rubber bands) the axle ends on my machine are clearly accessible.
I will try to borrow a long vernier from a machinist friend and measure rod length right after about a 1 hour print above a ~90C bed with a ~225C extruder running.
I may be wrong 'bout this, but axle to axle centers seems better than rod end to rod end.
I know, they SHOULD be the same - and as long as the U-joints are spot on they will be.
I will try to borrow a long vernier from a machinist friend and measure rod length right after about a 1 hour print above a ~90C bed with a ~225C extruder running.
I may be wrong 'bout this, but axle to axle centers seems better than rod end to rod end.
I know, they SHOULD be the same - and as long as the U-joints are spot on they will be.
Last edited by RegB on Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I'm thinking, not only measure the length, but measure the distance between each arm at the cheap skate and the effector.RegB wrote:Since I removed the axle clips (in favor of rubber bands) the axle ends on my machine are clearly accessible.
I will try to borrow a long vernier from a machinist friend and measure rod length right after about a 1 hour print above a ~90C bed with a ~225C extruder running.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Motors, Belts, and Pulleys didn't do the trick for me. I'll try swapping my Rambo board this weekend.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Swapped Rambo boards, and that didn't do the trick. Also tried Marlin instead of Repetier (loaded from someone else's computer too)... I'm running out of conspiracy theories.
Things that have been replaced:
All wooden parts (V1 to V2 conversion)
Build plate (window glass, boro glass, and machined aluminum)
Arms (V1, V2, and Trick Laser)
Carriages (V1, V2)
Effector Platform (V1, V2)
Motors (swapped from Wantai to Kysan)
Pulleys (stock plastic to all aluminum)
Belts (different brands)
Rambo board (both 1.1a)
Wiring (not troubleshooting, just accessorizing)
Endstops (different brands)
Firmware (multiple versions of Repetier and 1 of Marlin)
Things that have not been replaced:
skate bearings, covers, and cams
belt idlers and spacers
aluminum extrusions
Unless my extrusions are bent, I can't imagine any of the parts that I haven't replaced yet having anything to do with this... I have extra aluminum to try this with, so that's next on the list. I've also got a smoothieboard to try in the next couple weeks, and a sanguinolulu if needed.
Am I crazy or is there something obvious that I'm overlooking? My only remaining theory is that there might be some gremlin hiding inside my Rambo board version since I tried 2 of the same version. Is anyone else who's having this issue using something other than a 1.1a? Maybe there's a math error and switching to a different microstepping setting or swapping the pulleys for a different tooth count is next?
Any suggestions besides seeking professional mental help?
Things that have been replaced:
All wooden parts (V1 to V2 conversion)
Build plate (window glass, boro glass, and machined aluminum)
Arms (V1, V2, and Trick Laser)
Carriages (V1, V2)
Effector Platform (V1, V2)
Motors (swapped from Wantai to Kysan)
Pulleys (stock plastic to all aluminum)
Belts (different brands)
Rambo board (both 1.1a)
Wiring (not troubleshooting, just accessorizing)
Endstops (different brands)
Firmware (multiple versions of Repetier and 1 of Marlin)
Things that have not been replaced:
skate bearings, covers, and cams
belt idlers and spacers
aluminum extrusions
Unless my extrusions are bent, I can't imagine any of the parts that I haven't replaced yet having anything to do with this... I have extra aluminum to try this with, so that's next on the list. I've also got a smoothieboard to try in the next couple weeks, and a sanguinolulu if needed.
Am I crazy or is there something obvious that I'm overlooking? My only remaining theory is that there might be some gremlin hiding inside my Rambo board version since I tried 2 of the same version. Is anyone else who's having this issue using something other than a 1.1a? Maybe there's a math error and switching to a different microstepping setting or swapping the pulleys for a different tooth count is next?
Any suggestions besides seeking professional mental help?
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
If I were you, I'd bring it to Dr. Guanu and see if he can work his magic. The dude's a frigging genius when it comes to calibrating cranky machines.
g.
g.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I fix machine for happy printing time! it work very much good
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Thanks, Andy. JJ offered help as well. It's just tough for me to get it out to you guys on a normal work day. Any chance that somebody would be there for me to drop it off over the weekend?guanu wrote:I fix machine for happy printing time! it work very much good
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
What you need is an abnormal work day.
g.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Let me know if you decide to set up the Smoothieboard. I'm adding tower rotation code to the Smoothie firmware. It will require a Z probe. There is some experimental code for Smoothie that tries to adjust delta radius, arm length and tower rotation simultaneously but it usually trips over itself. My code tries to do one thing at a time.Jimustanguitar wrote:I've also got a smoothieboard to try in the next couple weeks, and a sanguinolulu if needed.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Thinking about tower rotation...
How hard would it be to say;
Lay a straight edge across towers X & Y, scribe a line, find the mid point.
Strike a line from the side of the Z tower to intersect the X-Y line.
Wouldn't THAT tell if the Z tower is facing the right way ?
Repeat for Y-Z against X tower and for X-Z against Y tower.
Now I'm thinking what REALLY matters is the cheapskate axles - THOSE need to be a PERFECT 120 degrees to each other.
I think if the cheapskate axles were temporarily replaced with very long pieces of very straight drill rod one could measure the length of the sides of the outer triangle where they intersect - somewhere around 26 - 27 inches at a guess.
This feels like a reasonable technique for amplifying the error in order to detect & correct it.
Getting them the same length would get the angles between them the same.
If they are wildly off... I would double check for a sloppy build and/or sloppy cheapskate adjustment.
Some adjustment may be possible by loosening up the 1/4 inch tower bolts to merely snug, then twisting/tweaking towers and tightening down again.
Shimming the U-joint carriage bases against their cheapskate inside plates would work, but I would want to tighten up on everything else first.
How "upright" ?
I would HOPE that the distance from the top of any tower to the base of an adjacent tower is some constant.
Quick and dirty check; Cut a metal straight edge (steel yard stick) down to about 29 inches, exact length doesn't matter.
Lean it up against the Z tower with its bottom against the base of the X tower, mark the Z tower carefully.
Move it around to the other side of the Z tower, with its bottom against the base of the Y tower, mark the Z tower on that side.
Use a carpenter's square to transcribe the marks to a face where they can be compared.
Repeat for X, repeat for Y, they should all be the same on both sides of all three towers.
How hard would it be to say;
Lay a straight edge across towers X & Y, scribe a line, find the mid point.
Strike a line from the side of the Z tower to intersect the X-Y line.
Wouldn't THAT tell if the Z tower is facing the right way ?
Repeat for Y-Z against X tower and for X-Z against Y tower.
Now I'm thinking what REALLY matters is the cheapskate axles - THOSE need to be a PERFECT 120 degrees to each other.
I think if the cheapskate axles were temporarily replaced with very long pieces of very straight drill rod one could measure the length of the sides of the outer triangle where they intersect - somewhere around 26 - 27 inches at a guess.
This feels like a reasonable technique for amplifying the error in order to detect & correct it.
Getting them the same length would get the angles between them the same.
If they are wildly off... I would double check for a sloppy build and/or sloppy cheapskate adjustment.
Some adjustment may be possible by loosening up the 1/4 inch tower bolts to merely snug, then twisting/tweaking towers and tightening down again.
Shimming the U-joint carriage bases against their cheapskate inside plates would work, but I would want to tighten up on everything else first.
How "upright" ?
I would HOPE that the distance from the top of any tower to the base of an adjacent tower is some constant.
Quick and dirty check; Cut a metal straight edge (steel yard stick) down to about 29 inches, exact length doesn't matter.
Lean it up against the Z tower with its bottom against the base of the X tower, mark the Z tower carefully.
Move it around to the other side of the Z tower, with its bottom against the base of the Y tower, mark the Z tower on that side.
Use a carpenter's square to transcribe the marks to a face where they can be compared.
Repeat for X, repeat for Y, they should all be the same on both sides of all three towers.
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I have some experimental confirmation for the "outside the triangle" bug. I mounted my Z-probe and ran some test code that implements the arduous tower rotation tests presented earlier in this thread. It runs through a bunch of permutations in which it tries adding or subtracting 0.25 degrees to one or two towers' rotations simultaneously, relevels the endstops, recalculates delta radius, and then probes all four quadrants (northeast, northwest, southwest, and southeast) to check their elevations and compare that with the elevation at bed center.
Altogether it runs 22 permutations:
X+0.25
X-0.25
Y+0.25
Y-0.25
Z+0.25
Z-0.25
X+0.25 AND Y+0.25
X+0.25 AND Y-0.25
etc...
Repetier's "copy" function is out to lunch, so here's a screenshot:
[img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file ... &mode=view[/img]
Look at the line near the bottom where it says Delta(|depth - PHTT|). That tells you the difference in elevation between bed center and the tested point. The two "north" quadrant test points (first two numbers on that line) are outside the triangle, and the two "south" test points (last two numbers) are inside. The deviation on the north test points are several times larger than the south test points. Moreover, it's ALWAYS that way! I can show you any permutation and the same thing will happen in every case.
I may wind up re-doing this method to test six points (three for each tower, and three at the halfway points between the towers). That would keep them all inside the triangle, near or right on the edge. Since we already know the math is screwed up for points outside the triangle, there's no use in probing them in the first place.
Altogether it runs 22 permutations:
X+0.25
X-0.25
Y+0.25
Y-0.25
Z+0.25
Z-0.25
X+0.25 AND Y+0.25
X+0.25 AND Y-0.25
etc...
Repetier's "copy" function is out to lunch, so here's a screenshot:
[img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file ... &mode=view[/img]
Look at the line near the bottom where it says Delta(|depth - PHTT|). That tells you the difference in elevation between bed center and the tested point. The two "north" quadrant test points (first two numbers on that line) are outside the triangle, and the two "south" test points (last two numbers) are inside. The deviation on the north test points are several times larger than the south test points. Moreover, it's ALWAYS that way! I can show you any permutation and the same thing will happen in every case.
I may wind up re-doing this method to test six points (three for each tower, and three at the halfway points between the towers). That would keep them all inside the triangle, near or right on the edge. Since we already know the math is screwed up for points outside the triangle, there's no use in probing them in the first place.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
You should bring this up on the deltabots mailing list. There are some really sharp folks there that could help out.
g.
g.
Delta Power!
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Happy super gold lucky fixit has startings now.guanu wrote:I fix machine for happy printing time! it work very much good
JJ and Guanu are on the case!
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I might do that. The theory I'm operating from is that it's best to get a base calibration (endstops, delta radius, tower rotations) to get the inside of the triangle as good as possible, and then do a heightmap over the whole print surface that is used to correct the elevations behind the scenes.geneb wrote:You should bring this up on the deltabots mailing list. There are some really sharp folks there that could help out.
Questions? Ask in a thread - PMs are off.
AI Calibration | Dimensional Accuracy Calibration | Hand-Tune your PID | OctoPi + Touchscreen setup | My E3D hot end mount, Z probe, fan ducts, LED ring mount, filament spool holder, etc.
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
JJ says my machine is good to go! He cited a warped Onyx (fixed with a shim) and swapped out my flat spotted rollers too.
Looking forward to picking up my machine and getting started printing again!
Looking forward to picking up my machine and getting started printing again!
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I was under the impression that the rollers flat spots would go away after using the printer for awhile.Jimustanguitar wrote:JJ says my machine is good to go! He cited a warped Onyx (fixed with a shim) and swapped out my flat spotted rollers too.
Looking forward to picking up my machine and getting started printing again!
Does this mean that the rollers can develop permanent flat spots?
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
They're not permanent, but can be a side-effect of having them gripping the towers too tightly.
g.
g.
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Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I think the rollers were more of a favor than the fix itself. Between swapping parts and doing trial and error on all of the firmware/EEPROM settings to chase out the gremlins, I've probably only printed 10 or 12 hours in the last 6 months. I should have put her up on blocks so that the tires didn't go flat
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Jim, warped Onyx? I doubt it!.... remember when we put the 3/8" thick precision mic-6 aluminum tooling plate on top of your bed and got the SAME Z error? certainly the onyx was not warping the tooling plate!Jimustanguitar wrote:JJ says my machine is good to go! He cited a warped Onyx (fixed with a shim) and swapped out my flat spotted rollers too.
Looking forward to picking up my machine and getting started printing again!
I will believe it when I see it.
First thing you should do when you get machine back is to run your gcode script and VIDEO the dial indicator probing the bed.
Make sure you bring your machine to the meeting Thursday.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
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GRABER i3 "Slim"
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Well, they did it! JJ and Andy got my machine to print around the whole bed perimeter by simply shimming the bed in the front with a nylock nut that was sitting around. I've never been able to do that! I'm still having a hard time believing it was that simple, but it is working.
I don't believe it could have been a warp because I did the same test with an aluminum plate - but it could have been un-level in a wonky way that would be difficult and counter intuitive to pick up on. After wrapping my head around this for a while, I have a theory about what made this so hard to find and have an idea for a calibration process that may be able to find and correct this in the future... I've been paying attention to 6 points. Leveling the endstop screws at points X, Y, Z and measuring my error at points A, B, and C...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/a2aKMAJ.png[/img]
This works for leveling and calibration if everything is lined up perfectly, but the bed itself may not be sitting flat. You'd have to shim or shave the nylon spacers under the bed to correct for this. I realized that I've been paying attention to the wrong 6 points!!! The older style bed that I have attaches to points 123456, not ABCXYZ. In hindsight, that's where I should have been dropping my dial indicator and making adjustments this whole time!
Here's my plan.
I'm going to mark the existing shim location with tape, take off the bed, keep the 6 existing spacers in the correct order, etc. so that I can put it all back if my crazy plan doesn't work out
Then I'll level the endstops to the frame itself with the dial indicator on the wooden top of the machine. Only paying attention to points XYZ, ignoring the other ones for now.
Then I'll install the bed with new/different spacers and measure points 123456. I've already got the script written to measure the bed inline with the 6 points where it screws down.
Pick the lowest measurement, and sand the other 5 one at a time to read the same measurement.
Start printing again and forge that I ever "invented" points ABC
I don't believe it could have been a warp because I did the same test with an aluminum plate - but it could have been un-level in a wonky way that would be difficult and counter intuitive to pick up on. After wrapping my head around this for a while, I have a theory about what made this so hard to find and have an idea for a calibration process that may be able to find and correct this in the future... I've been paying attention to 6 points. Leveling the endstop screws at points X, Y, Z and measuring my error at points A, B, and C...
[img]http://i.imgur.com/a2aKMAJ.png[/img]
This works for leveling and calibration if everything is lined up perfectly, but the bed itself may not be sitting flat. You'd have to shim or shave the nylon spacers under the bed to correct for this. I realized that I've been paying attention to the wrong 6 points!!! The older style bed that I have attaches to points 123456, not ABCXYZ. In hindsight, that's where I should have been dropping my dial indicator and making adjustments this whole time!
Here's my plan.
I'm going to mark the existing shim location with tape, take off the bed, keep the 6 existing spacers in the correct order, etc. so that I can put it all back if my crazy plan doesn't work out
Then I'll level the endstops to the frame itself with the dial indicator on the wooden top of the machine. Only paying attention to points XYZ, ignoring the other ones for now.
Then I'll install the bed with new/different spacers and measure points 123456. I've already got the script written to measure the bed inline with the 6 points where it screws down.
Pick the lowest measurement, and sand the other 5 one at a time to read the same measurement.
Start printing again and forge that I ever "invented" points ABC
-
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I'm glad that the folks at SMC were able to fix Jimustangguitar's printer but I live in Arizona so it would be a bit of drive me . I really don't see how spacers could be the fix for this issue since unless the combination of the spacers and the clips are deforming the glass at points 123 to bring them into virtual flatness with ABC. Am I missing something?
ABC = 12am (z-axis), 4am and 8am
123 = 2am, 6am and 10am
Pre change to Carriage Horizontal Offset:
When I read the post that SMC had a fix involving the Carriage Horizontal Offset value (raising it from 35 to 37.5) I came home and tried it out first thing. Before changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset I did the 4 point calibration out of the manual and had it dialed in perfectly on my Rostock V1 unmodified system. I printed a 100 mm radius disc and as expected it was perfect at ABC positions and not adhering due to extruder height at positions 123 being to high.
Post Carriage Horizontal Offset change:
I changed the the Carriage Horizontal Offset value from 35 to 37.5 and tested the height at x,y,x = 0,0,0 where changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset value had the effect of pegging the paper to the plate. I tested at x,y,z=0,90,0 (A) and found the paper pegged extremely hard. I had to raise the z value by 0.6mm to release the paper so changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset had the effect of virtually increasing the max length values and making the system extremely convex.
I went through the standard 4 point z height calibration again until it was perfectly dialed in - which really took some time because of how convex the system was. Upon completing the calibration I printed my 100mm radius disc again with no change to the results that I had before changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset value prints - points 123 were still printing high and ABC were right on.
By the way, I ended up changing the PRINTER_RADIUS value to 201.1 from 198.7 to flatten out the convex that the Carriage Horizontal Offset change introduced.
Conclusion
Bottom line is this weird Z0 behavior does not have a solution yet. My system's effect print diameter is degraded to well within the imaginary triangle for any quality prints
ABC = 12am (z-axis), 4am and 8am
123 = 2am, 6am and 10am
Pre change to Carriage Horizontal Offset:
When I read the post that SMC had a fix involving the Carriage Horizontal Offset value (raising it from 35 to 37.5) I came home and tried it out first thing. Before changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset I did the 4 point calibration out of the manual and had it dialed in perfectly on my Rostock V1 unmodified system. I printed a 100 mm radius disc and as expected it was perfect at ABC positions and not adhering due to extruder height at positions 123 being to high.
Post Carriage Horizontal Offset change:
I changed the the Carriage Horizontal Offset value from 35 to 37.5 and tested the height at x,y,x = 0,0,0 where changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset value had the effect of pegging the paper to the plate. I tested at x,y,z=0,90,0 (A) and found the paper pegged extremely hard. I had to raise the z value by 0.6mm to release the paper so changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset had the effect of virtually increasing the max length values and making the system extremely convex.
I went through the standard 4 point z height calibration again until it was perfectly dialed in - which really took some time because of how convex the system was. Upon completing the calibration I printed my 100mm radius disc again with no change to the results that I had before changing the Carriage Horizontal Offset value prints - points 123 were still printing high and ABC were right on.
By the way, I ended up changing the PRINTER_RADIUS value to 201.1 from 198.7 to flatten out the convex that the Carriage Horizontal Offset change introduced.
Conclusion
Bottom line is this weird Z0 behavior does not have a solution yet. My system's effect print diameter is degraded to well within the imaginary triangle for any quality prints
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Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Well, it's working! For my instance of this oddity, I'd call it solved! I'm not sure if I treated the cause or the symptom, but I don't really care because I'm +/- 2 thou and can stick the first layer all over the bed!
I would never have thought that shimming the bed would return different results than adjusting the endstop screws, but props to JJ and Andy at SeeMe for figuring out that it would!
Here's the process I followed to get things right.
1. Removed the Onyx bed and hot-end. Installed the dial indicator and set my new Z height so that the indicator didn't touch the base at Z10 but does hit before Z0.
2. Set my endstop screws so that the platform travel was level with the top of the wooden frame itself. I got this down to the width of the needle on my indicator, which I didn't expect to be able to do. I used this 3 point script: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_uWAJ ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3. Reinstalled the Onyx bed. (I used calipers to pick the 6 standoffs that measured the closest to each other) Set new Z height to measure the bed with the indicator.
4. Ran this 6 point script to check the bed height at each point where the bed screws down: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_uWAJ ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; **This is different on newer versions of the Onyx and the current running change of the V2-Max**
5. One at a time, I either shimmed between the Onyx and the snowflake with strips of paper, or shaved the nylon spacer down with a file to get everything just right. Do not touch the endstop screws while doing this, they're set from the first step!
6. Lather, rinse, repeat until I got the results I wanted.
I did this in about an hour, and was shocked how well it worked. If you're having trouble printing "outside the triangle", please try this!
I would never have thought that shimming the bed would return different results than adjusting the endstop screws, but props to JJ and Andy at SeeMe for figuring out that it would!
Here's the process I followed to get things right.
1. Removed the Onyx bed and hot-end. Installed the dial indicator and set my new Z height so that the indicator didn't touch the base at Z10 but does hit before Z0.
2. Set my endstop screws so that the platform travel was level with the top of the wooden frame itself. I got this down to the width of the needle on my indicator, which I didn't expect to be able to do. I used this 3 point script: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_uWAJ ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
3. Reinstalled the Onyx bed. (I used calipers to pick the 6 standoffs that measured the closest to each other) Set new Z height to measure the bed with the indicator.
4. Ran this 6 point script to check the bed height at each point where the bed screws down: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_uWAJ ... sp=sharing" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; **This is different on newer versions of the Onyx and the current running change of the V2-Max**
5. One at a time, I either shimmed between the Onyx and the snowflake with strips of paper, or shaved the nylon spacer down with a file to get everything just right. Do not touch the endstop screws while doing this, they're set from the first step!
6. Lather, rinse, repeat until I got the results I wanted.
I did this in about an hour, and was shocked how well it worked. If you're having trouble printing "outside the triangle", please try this!
Last edited by Jimustanguitar on Wed Aug 20, 2014 8:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Unsolved Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
told ya we'd get it
but glad you are back to printing!
Guanu
but glad you are back to printing!
Guanu
Re: *Solved* Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
I'd be curious to see if your Onyx is the same thickness all across the PCB.
g.
g.
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Defeat the Cartesian Agenda!
http://www.f15sim.com - 80-0007, The only one of its kind.
http://geneb.simpits.org - Technical and Simulator Projects
- bvandiepenbos
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Re: *Solved* Mystery. Weird Z0 behavior around build perimet
Jim, IMHO your print surface has been warped to match the wonky travel of the head. So I would not call it a true fix, but hey if it works for you then great.
I would be real curious to watch the dial indicator as head travels in a large circular pattern, instead of just probing at fixed points. First on the boro print surface, then on that piece of Mic-6 tooling plate I have.
I would be real curious to watch the dial indicator as head travels in a large circular pattern, instead of just probing at fixed points. First on the boro print surface, then on that piece of Mic-6 tooling plate I have.
~*Brian V.
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"
RostockMAX v2 (Stock)
MAX METAL "ShortyMAX"
MAX METAL Rostock MAX Printer Frame
NEMESIS Air Delta v1 & v2 -Aluminum delta printers
Rostock MAX "KITT" - Tri-Force Frame
GRABER i3 "Slim"