Is there a speed adjustment for the PEEK fan?

[Delta Zee Solutions]

After installing the peek fan and recalibrating the PID's (twice), my hot end now has trouble getting to and keeping the set-point. The set-point is at 225° C but it bounces around 218°-220°.

I searched as well as read through MHackney's "fan hoopla" thread but don't seem to find an answer...

I would like to either turn down the fan through a config, EEprom param, or something with out having to resort to installing a rheostat before the fan.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance,
Mark

[Mac The Knife]

before i switched to ceramic heaters, I insulated the hotend where the peek threads into it. That helped alot, and I could keep the peek fan going full speed. Geneb uses kapton tape in his video, I used a section of silicone exhaust tubing from a nitro rc car.

[bvandiepenbos]

The peek fan MUST be on at 100% all the time.

You can wrap the heater block with silicone tape to insulate it, that helps a lot.

Your resistors could be burning out or connections to them poor, this is also a common cause of not being able to get hot end up to temperature.

[Delta Zee Solutions]

Thanks, Guys!
I'll investigate it and try your solutions and report back.

[PhoenixNZ]

Very interested to see what you find out as I have the exact same thing happening.

I recalibrated the PID settings and while printing ABS the setpoint is 225°C or 230°C but the hotend never gets above 220°C.

I've only run 2 prints since installing the PEEK fan (the layer fan shroud and a test print of that low poly bulbasaur that's doing the rounds) and they still came out fantastic.

[RegB]

Anyone try different resistors in the standard hot end ?
A pair of 6.8 ohms should produce ~40 Watts from 12 volts, a 10 ohm pair around 30 Watts...
Just wondering if that would be adequate - my hot end gets to 225 WAY before the bed gets to 90, so I'm just wondering if the hot end is overpowered - thunkin'

[PopolZ]

Anyone try different resistors in the standard hot end ?
A pair of 6.8 ohms should produce ~40 Watts from 12 volts, a 10 ohm pair around 30 Watts...
Just wondering if that would be adequate - my hot end gets to 225 WAY before the bed gets to 90, so I'm just wondering if the hot end is overpowered - thunkin'

Keep in mind that your hotend need more power to compensate for the heat it loses when it's heating up your filament. The faster you print, more filament goes through and it requires more power to keep up!

When my resistors went I could barely print at 40mm/sec with my .5 nozzle and when I got the printer out of the box I was able to push 180mm/sec. I'd set my temp to 210 and it would gradually go down to 190. Under extrusion started and finally the extruder would chew the filament.

[Delta Zee Solutions]

UPDATE:

The kapton tape wrap around the heated barrel below the PEEK was the first thing I tried and it worked! I also have silicone tape which I'm sure would also work, but the Kapton happened to be closer on the bench...

Now I only have to recheck the PID calibration but the hot end hit set-point just fine.

Thanks for the ideas and I hope this helps others with the same problem.

Mark

[RegB]

I just fired up Repetier_Host and was greeted with this;
===============================================
Update check;
Version Installed 1.0 RC1
Version Available 1.0.1

Information on update
Version 1.0.1
* Slic3r 1.1.7 included.
* Separate nozzle diameter for CuraEngine.
* Temperature view quicksettings can be hidden.
* Compatible with linux.

Version 1.0.0
* Easy Mode hiding complex functions.
* New manual control panel.
* CuraEngine included.
* Slic3r 1.1.6 included.
* Better multi-extruder support.
* Read and write amf files.
* Many help bubbles for settings.
* Plugin system for extensions improved.
* Select printer on startup with -printer <PrinterName>
* Reduced video memory usage.
* Connection over TCP socket.
* Many small fixes and improvements.

Version 0.95F
* Use stable OpenTK 1.0 again, which worked on all graphic cards.
* Better slicer handling.
* Some bug fixes.

Version 0.95E
* Store slic3r windows position and size.
* Allow different slic3r config dirs when slic3r is called from the host.
* Improved graphic mode detection.

Version 0.95D 30-12-2013
* Slic3r 1.0RC2
* Override important Slic3r settings from host side.
* Watch directory for external slicer support.
* Support several Slic3r/Skeinforge version.
* Save 3d view as png image.
* Added compass to 3d view.
* Faster object import - analysis only on request.
* Fixed several small bugs, many mono/linux related.
* Name repetier instance in case you started it several times.
* Support for 3d-Studio files, written by J.F. van Leur.
* More dynamic camera manipulation from Tom???? Chl??dek.
* More flexible slicer handling.
* Temperature curve legend.
* Long filename support for sd uploads.
* Improved SD card handling.
* Cached printing - buffers job on sd card and autostarts after uploading.
* Show ETA/ETE in printer lcd.
* Export/import repetier firmware eeprom settings.

Version 0.90C 07-07-2013
* Faster connect with reset
* Fixed crash when stl loaded is modified later.
* Printer Settings can be opened during print.
* Better handling of connection without reset.
* New algorithm for normal orientation detection.
* Faster loading of files in some cases.

Version 0.90B
* Fixed bug with resend errors.
* Better connection handling for Printrboard
=========================================

That all looks nice, so I will probably update it.

To the question of fan speed;
I find 3 wire fans on the shelf - the yellow being for speed control.
It is a digital speed indicator, i.e. pulses (or transitions) appear on that wire to indicate speed - it would take a bit of code to USE that.