After a few layers, Orion loses the plot...

[profeti]

Hi All,

First, apologies if this has been solved elsewhere. I tried searching (not sure what the right term would be) and have read many posts here, but could find the same issue.

Anyhoo, I've had my Orion for four days and, though my first print (this same part, Kossel Mini plate_3x) failed because the PSU overheated and shutdown, it's been printing really well since. (I've left the LCD panel detached to allow more airflow while I wait for a response from support.) I've printed this exact same Gcode successfully three times. But my last three attempts have failed when, after a few layers, the effector starts going way high towards the X tower (assuming the tower to the left of the LCD is X.) The result is a pile of plastic spaghetti. This isn't my first Delta rodeo, I've been building them since Johann first released the Rostock and have two Kossel Minis under construction right now. However, I haven't used Repetier or the RAMBo before. Any guidance is appreciated. I've attached a picture of the last failed print:

PS: I'm printing from SD and using ABS.

[Mrfrankl]

I've had the spaghetti issue as well, advice I've gotten from others on here is that....

your issue appears to be hotend jam, rather than extruder jam... the reason for the current change was putting over-current in the kysan motors causes them to get hot and can make pla soften by the extruder.. having the current closer to what the motor wants makes it run better... looking at the plug in the pic, your issue seems to be heat creep, make sure the peek fan is always on.. if its not on full all the time, heat can creep up the peek section and soften the plastic early, causing it to swell and plug before getting to the nozzle, thats really what your pics look like what is happening.

Guanu

so maybe its an issue of things overheating

The peek fan MUST be on at 100% all the time.

You can wrap the heater block with silicone tape to insulate it, that helps a lot.

Your resistors could be burning out or connections to them poor, this is also a common cause of not being able to get hot end up to temperature.

UPDATE:

The kapton tape wrap around the heated barrel below the PEEK was the first thing I tried and it worked! I also have silicone tape which I'm sure would also work, but the Kapton happened to be closer on the bench...

Now I only have to recheck the PID calibration but the hot end hit set-point just fine.

Thanks for the ideas and I hope this helps others with the same problem.

Mark

[profeti]

Thanks. But mine isn't an extrusion issue, the machine hasn't behaved properly since I got it a week ago thursday. It shut itself down 10% into the first print and has been getting progressively worse. I've been in contact with support and think we're agreed that the issue is bad RAMBo.