CAN'T GET RIGHT
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- Prints-a-lot
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CAN'T GET RIGHT
I am having an issue trying to get my printer to stop printing sloppy, but I do not know exactly where to start. Can you help with that?
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
Give us some parameters to work with.
What are you printing on? Its overlapped and shouldn't be. You created a ridge to print your base on for starters.
That part looks like it would need some support to print anyway.
What are you printing on? Its overlapped and shouldn't be. You created a ridge to print your base on for starters.
That part looks like it would need some support to print anyway.
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
I am printing on a rostock max v2 with masking tape. The extruder temp was 225 and the bed temp was 80.
This is my first printer, so I am not up on the jargon yet. What exactly are you referring to when you speak of the ridge?
This is my first printer, so I am not up on the jargon yet. What exactly are you referring to when you speak of the ridge?
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
I forgot to mention that I am using 1.75 mm ABS
Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
Looks like you are printing too fast. What are your speeds set at?
Current Machines || Rostock Max (V1) | V3DR ||
Previous Machines || Flashforge Creator Pro ||
Previous Machines || Flashforge Creator Pro ||
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
My speeds were at in acceleration 1850, speed 100%
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
Are you sure it is ABS? It looks a little glossy, which is not typical. Could be mis-marked PLA, in which case you need to lower the temperature about 20 degrees. Have you calibrated the extruder? This is not something covered in detail in the manual, but there is a good tutorial on youtube (search calibrating e-steps).
I've never tried printing on masking tape. From what I remember, I've read mostly about people using blue painters tape. Not sure how ABS (or PLA) works with regular masking tape. Not sure how regular masking tape handles heat.
The intent when using tape of any kind is to apply a single layer. Strips should just be edge to edge, with no overlap. The overlapping edges and crossed strips are the "ridges" someone else talked about.
The "speed" we inquired about is a setting (or group of settings) in the slicing software. It will establish the normal travel rate for the nozzle while extruding. These numbers will be in mm per second. What values did you use? Default values are likely too high for an intricate design.
I've never tried printing on masking tape. From what I remember, I've read mostly about people using blue painters tape. Not sure how ABS (or PLA) works with regular masking tape. Not sure how regular masking tape handles heat.
The intent when using tape of any kind is to apply a single layer. Strips should just be edge to edge, with no overlap. The overlapping edges and crossed strips are the "ridges" someone else talked about.
The "speed" we inquired about is a setting (or group of settings) in the slicing software. It will establish the normal travel rate for the nozzle while extruding. These numbers will be in mm per second. What values did you use? Default values are likely too high for an intricate design.
"Trust no quote from the Internet." - Abraham Lincoln
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
That is exactly what I tried to print. This is my fifth creation, first starting with squares and circles.PhoenixNZ wrote:are you trying to print this?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:400985
That's pretty ambitious
I am 100% positive that the filament I am using is ABS, and as for the masking tape. Someone posted a video on how to get your ABS to stick and tape was one of the items talked about in the video. Maybe I should get some much wider tape so that I am not overlapping, but it works way better than the glue I attempted to use. I will get the information on the mm speeds in the slicer tomorrow if that is okay, since it is at my shop. I have done a lot of reading about the RM V2 and I figure most things you will figure out is through the complicated prints.Earthbound wrote:Are you sure it is ABS? It looks a little glossy, which is not typical. Could be mis-marked PLA, in which case you need to lower the temperature about 20 degrees. Have you calibrated the extruder? This is not something covered in detail in the manual, but there is a good tutorial on youtube (search calibrating e-steps).
I've never tried printing on masking tape. From what I remember, I've read mostly about people using blue painters tape. Not sure how ABS (or PLA) works with regular masking tape. Not sure how regular masking tape handles heat.
The intent when using tape of any kind is to apply a single layer. Strips should just be edge to edge, with no overlap. The overlapping edges and crossed strips are the "ridges" someone else talked about.
The "speed" we inquired about is a setting (or group of settings) in the slicing software. It will establish the normal travel rate for the nozzle while extruding. These numbers will be in mm per second. What values did you use? Default values are likely too high for an intricate design.
I really appreciate everyones opinion.
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
Sorry, I forgot I had them.
Speeds: Infill 40mm/s, Raft 100%, Inside perimeter 40mm/s, Outside per 35mm/s, support material 40mm/s, bridges 60mm/s, travel 300mm/s, first layer speed 10mm/s
Speeds: Infill 40mm/s, Raft 100%, Inside perimeter 40mm/s, Outside per 35mm/s, support material 40mm/s, bridges 60mm/s, travel 300mm/s, first layer speed 10mm/s
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
The challenge of figuring out what causes a failed print is complicated when it could be a lot of things. It is simpler to print a series of basic exercises that reveal specific aspects of printing. With each exercise helping to dial in a particular setting, you build a foundation of confidence in what each thing controls or influences. Then, if a complicated print fails, you have some idea of where to start making changes.
So, for 100% certainty that it is ABS, did you use acetone or fire? Never both.
So, for 100% certainty that it is ABS, did you use acetone or fire? Never both.
"Trust no quote from the Internet." - Abraham Lincoln
- beilmandesign
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
When I see a model on thingverse and it does not have a photo of an actual completed part I am wary of it. I have tried my share of these with not much luck. Many have had build issues or I just could not get them to build. There is a low poly version here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:319413" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Give that a try to see if it prints better with the same settings (no need to print the whole thing, just enough to see if builds cleaner).
BTW I use a heater temp of 245 and Bed temp of 110 for ABS (with elmers glue stick for adhesion).
BTW I use a heater temp of 245 and Bed temp of 110 for ABS (with elmers glue stick for adhesion).
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
Sorry I am so bad at this. This is the exact one I got.Earthbound wrote:The challenge of figuring out what causes a failed print is complicated when it could be a lot of things. It is simpler to print a series of basic exercises that reveal specific aspects of printing. With each exercise helping to dial in a particular setting, you build a foundation of confidence in what each thing controls or influences. Then, if a complicated print fails, you have some idea of where to start making changes.
So, for 100% certainty that it is ABS, did you use acetone or fire? Never both.
http://www.octave.com/p1173433088/Octav ... .75mm-1kg-(2.2lbs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)-Spool/product_info.html
I will try to test the perfection again. So I do appreciate your help a lot.
Thank you very much. I will try to see if that works. I never thought to go that hot on the bed but I am definitely going to try that. I hope it works and thank you for your help.beilmandesign wrote:When I see a model on thingverse and it does not have a photo of an actual completed part I am wary of it. I have tried my share of these with not much luck. Many have had build issues or I just could not get them to build. There is a low poly version here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:319413" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; Give that a try to see if it prints better with the same settings (no need to print the whole thing, just enough to see if builds cleaner).
BTW I use a heater temp of 245 and Bed temp of 110 for ABS (with elmers glue stick for adhesion).
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Re: CAN'T GET RIGHT
Just because that is what you ordered, and even if that is what the label on the box/spool claims, it may be wrong. My point is that if it doesn't quite look like ABS and it doesn't behave like ABS, don't trust the printed label. A simple flame or acetone test will verify.avangelking wrote:This is the exact one I got.
http://www.octave.com/p1173433088/Octav ... .75mm-1kg-(2.2lbs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;)-Spool/product_info.html
I will try to test the perfection again. So I do appreciate your help a lot.
"Trust no quote from the Internet." - Abraham Lincoln