Prints keep warping

[Nath5]

I am having quite a hard time getting even fairly small prints to stay firmly attached at the corners. I have leveled and releveled the my rostock 2 many times and I am getting a great looking first layer but once my prints get about 10 -15 mm they start pulling up. I have been printing with an 8mm brim at 230 for the first layer and 235 for other layers. I have a heated enclosure which keeps the air around 105F. I also recently added a tricklaser aluminum heat spreader. I have always used hairspray with abs but it isn't cutting it anymore. I made up some abs juice last night but am somewhat hesitant to use it after reading all the stories about people shattering their glass build plates trying to get prints off.

Does anyone have positive experience using abs juice and if so what are your tips for using it correctly?

Thanks,
Nathan

[IMBoring25]

I prefer tapes to liquid adhesion promoters. I have Kapton on mine. No pre-applying or post-cleanup, just cleaning. And when failure to release occurs it doesn't break the plate.

[DeltaCon]

Yes, I have positive experience with ABS juice. It did the trick for me without having to use expensive kapton or PEI surfaces. Before it worked I had to scarce tye glass with a painters grinding pad however, else even the slurry would not adhere enough. Sometimes it is difficult to get the part off, especially when in a hurry. The trick is to let it cool completely. It never felt like I would break the glass (yet!).

[DavidF]

I have only ever used abs juice for printing abs parts. It was about 2 years worth of printing before I took a chunk out of the glass so im not complaining.

[Nath5]

Sounds like it is worth a shot then. I will try with a very thin layer and see how that works.

[Captain Starfish]

Problem is as the top layers cool, they shrink, which pulls them in, which in turn tends to pull up the edges. You can only defeat that by getting sufficient bed adhesion and, if the force exceeds what the glass can cope with, it'll pull chunks out.

My original glass bed had this issue, the replacement one has been fine. I now print on a perforated garolite sheet which sits on top of the glass and it has no problems with the chunky time.

I've tried all manner of things but keep coming back to ABS juice when printing ABS (nylon sticks to garolite like sh!t to a blanket with no prep required, and I haven't bothered with PLA for ages).

The trick is to make ABS juice, not ABS mud. It should still be watery when you apply a thin film, as opposed to mud that you plaster on like a brickie. Make it too thick and you stand a halfway decent chance of wrecking the glass not during the print, but as you try and wrestle the part off the bed at the end.

[KAS]

Captain, do you have a source for the perforated garolite sheet you're using?

[Nath5]

Printed two prints last night using abs juice applied using a foam brush. Worked like a charm no edges pulling up and removing the prints wasn't much harder then when using hairspray. What is the best way to clean the build plate after several builds should I just use acetone to wipe it down?

Thanks,
Nathan

[Captain Starfish]

KAS - local electronic supplier. Bought a 300x300mm sheet of single side copper clad blank PCB for about twenty bucks. Threw it in a cnc mill, drilled a 5mm grid of 0.7mm holes (that's a lot of holes) then ran it through the bandsaw and linisher to get a circle and knock the burrs off the copper. Copper face down on the glass and clip it, done.

Acetone will clean the bed, yes. Or if the film of juice is thick enough, a quick soak in warm water should get under it to the point where you can peel it off easy. But why would you bother? Just let it build up

[Eaglezsoar]

KAS - local electronic supplier. Bought a 300x300mm sheet of single side copper clad blank PCB for about twenty bucks. Threw it in a cnc mill, drilled a 5mm grid of 0.7mm holes (that's a lot of holes) then ran it through the bandsaw and linisher to get a circle and knock the burrs off the copper. Copper face down on the glass and clip it, done.

Acetone will clean the bed, yes. Or if the film of juice is thick enough, a quick soak in warm water should get under it to the point where you can peel it off easy. But why would you bother? Just let it build up

Wow Captain, that is a lot of holes!