[04Feb16 - Rostock MAX v2, 4th Edition Manual

[Outsider]

Congrats on the new manual. maybe it is just me having already built my printer but this version seems to be better organized. I like it.

[geneb]

Thanks! I cut quite a lot of content and 90%+ of the images were set to be 2.5" wide instead of the varying widths I'd used before. I also split the manual into two parts, which should help stop intimidating people over the page count.

g.

[Windshadow]

Thanks Geneb, for creating such a great assembly manual which i am reading carefully in preparation for the arrival of my kit
(how long will it take till I hear of a shipping date? i ordered on cyber monday)
Your instructions are at the level of the best years of the Heathkit electronic kits and that is a very high bar.

(as a machinist i do take a slight issue with your hillbilly tap and I think I will use a real one in a tap handle;-) but I understand the reason for your choice you might know that the efficiency of your hillbilly tap can be greatley increased by the careful application of small triangle file or a dremmel cutoff wheel just look at a picture of a taper tap on line and alter your socket head cap screw to look a bit like it. I frequently have to make custom taps when repairing early 19th century antiques and I just cut the thread into a piece of O1 drill rod then cut the flutes and harden&temper. standardized threading took a while to spread....)

[geneb]

Thanks Windshadow! You might want to download it again, I just posted 4.11.

The tap was John Oly's idea - I cringed too. I've thought about having the builder hack it with a triangle file, but that would be another tool the builder would have to buy if they didn't have one already.

Note to the builders that have used versions of the 4th Ed. prior to v4.10 - you'll need to swap the Line & Neutral lines on the IEC connector as I somehow managed to get them backwards. A keen-eyed builder pointed out that to me last week.

g.

[Windshadow]

I recall something about your harness tying technique making replica auto wiring sets the picture of how you did the fishing wire wrap was what triggered it as some of them back in the of cloth covered rubber insulation used that helix wrap between the knots to prevent chafing but it was a long time ago and I don't recall the details....

Do you use a special knot its hard to tell from the photos

why are not more multi conductor cables used? it seems to me that they would be easier in some areas.
Why not have M F 3 and 3 or 4 wire connectors for wiring in places where a hobbyist will likely be making upgrades down the road... I used waterproof 2 wire 16a ones like this for some low voltage Xmas led displays for the church
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4 ... UL115_.jpg
but there are hundreds of designs out there for all wire sizes.

[geneb]

It's aircraft wiring actually.
I just tie granny knots in it - nothing fancy.

In the v1 days I showed optional quick disconnects, but the customer service load was insane due to the large number of people that thinks "optional" means "required" so I was asked to drop it.

g.

[Outsider]

yup, I hated doing the wax wiring in avionics tech school. It drove me crazy.

[Eaglezsoar]

yup, I hated doing the wax wiring in avionics tech school. It drove me crazy.

Was that a short trip?

[blackrabt]

Geneb, many thanks for your many hours spent putting the versions of this guide together. I think there is an error on page 147, Section 9.7. You say to use two #4 x 3/8" sheet metal screws to attach the ball joint arm, but the listed materials section for 9.3 lists #4 x 1/2" sheet metal screws. I think both should read 1/2" screws, though I am not the expert.

Thanks!

[mhackney]

Gene, it had to happen sooner or later... you are getting screwed.

[geneb]

1. I'm bummed. He didn't even get me flowers!

2. That's not the 4th Ed. he's using. The 4th Ed. has 147 pages TOTAL.

(after some digging, I have no clue what blackrabt is using. Page 147 in the 3rd Ed. is working the belts.)

I did find the issue. I'm awaiting a final ruling before changing it.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

1. I'm bummed. He didn't even get me flowers!

2. That's not the 4th Ed. he's using. The 4th Ed. has 147 pages TOTAL.

(after some digging, I have no clue what blackrabt is using. Page 147 in the 3rd Ed. is working the belts.)

I did find the issue. I'm awaiting a final ruling before changing it.

g.

Aw, just change it. A new member found the discrepancy and took the time to notify you.
As far as you getting screwed, welcome to planet earth! (Hope they use the short screws, they seem to hurt less)

[Eaglezsoar]

Geneb, many thanks for your many hours spent putting the versions of this guide together. I think there is an error on page 147, Section 9.7. You say to use two #4 x 3/8" sheet metal screws to attach the ball joint arm, but the listed materials section for 9.3 lists #4 x 1/2" sheet metal screws. I think both should read 1/2" screws, though I am not the expert.

Thanks!

Hi blackrabt! Welcome to our humble forum.
Thanks for noticing the problem with one of our guides and notifying Gene.
We are here for you if you have questions or problems just drop us a message in a suitable sub-topic.
Happy Holidays and Happy Printing!
PS: Any little rabts running around?

[blackrabt]

1. I'm bummed. He didn't even get me flowers!

2. That's not the 4th Ed. he's using. The 4th Ed. has 147 pages TOTAL.

(after some digging, I have no clue what blackrabt is using. Page 147 in the 3rd Ed. is working the belts.)

I did find the issue. I'm awaiting a final ruling before changing it.

g.

Yes that was my mistake. I meant page 90/147. I'm working through a cold, so excuse my poor brain.

Eaglezsoar: No little rabts but we do have some rats, which are currently snuggled up in their plastic igloo.

[geneb]

Eagle, I'm waiting to hear back from JJ. Based on what I can tell, the text is correct and the BOM image in the section heading is wrong, but I need to make sure before I change it.

g.

[blackrabt]

1. I'm bummed. He didn't even get me flowers!

g.

I will of course respect the final ruling. For what it is worth, I did not have enough screws in my kit to complete it with the 3/8" screws, but did have just the right number of 1/2"

[geneb]

Ha! That's great.

g.

[Windshadow]

Well It looks like I am stuck till support returns on Monday.
see my build thread http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 406#p81874

one small note on the manual the instructions for Macintosh need a touch of tweaking on Page 8 for example of the operating manual it says

Next, you'll need to tell the Arduino IDE what port to talk to the RAMBo on. To do this, click on “Tools”, “Serial Port” and then choose the COM port that your RAMBo appears as on your computer.

but on the macintosh it turns up at /dev/cu.usbmodem621 COM is not seen anywhere and above it in the list on this old 2009 vintage macbook pro are a couple of bluetooth items due I guess to my using a bluetooth keyboard and mouse.
the only place i ever see ports described like that is when I am messing with the UNIX stuff on the terminal. a non tech user of a mac might not know that the arduino had found the rambo.

[Windshadow]

Hi Gene
Happy new year!

I wonder if you might consider adding a line (perhaps even in red type) to either page 51 where the power supply is first handled
to the effect that the builder should check that the Powersupply line voltage switch is in the proper position for the builders domestic line voltage

or if it was better at page 54 when the power supply install is finished and buttoned up

my failure to notice that it was in the 220 position when I installed it caused me a few days of problems (all my own fault as I could have thought to check it)
but it might be worth a line in the manual just in case another one slips past the gang when systems are being boxed up

and once again many thanks for your suburb build and use manuals i am stunned that after just 4 total attempts to prints something useful (the first 3 with the PEEK fan holder) I could get an ABS print as good as this
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/819 ... detail.jpg[/img]

[Xenocrates]

Wind, the version revised as of 29 december has it on page 33, in preparing the power supply. Also, considering the majority of the world is on 220~ish, and the PSU's are likely made in china, it makes sense to default to 220, and SeemeCNC doesn't quite have the man-power to employ someone to flip little switches on power supplies which might get flipped back quickly.

[Windshadow]

glad to hear it Xeno i was using the Dec 4th version to build with so i thought it best to mention it here

[blackrabt]

Glad to see you got it worked out Windshadow! I was feeling bad for you over the holiday knowing you were unable to proceed.

[Windshadow]

It was quite a face palm moment I even had low voltage to the heaters as my number one what could be wrong list.... then I dismissed it as unlikely with a new PS

I should also have been checking for updated versions of this manual every few days through the build....

when I started the build I was using a pdf of the manual on my iPad... but by about page 50 I discovered that I was skipping things so I went back and printed the December 4th version and worked form that with out thinking to check for a new version.... and I was aware in the back of my mind that this is a printer design under continuous improvement and correction... it was one of the main reasons I bought this kit.

some how I thought that in some way that the manual I was using would not need updating while I built... very very silly of me

[terabyte]

Thanks for the great guide, it was easy to understand and follow.
I have a couple of comments though, and I don't think these has been mentioned yet.

1. 12 Gage wire needs some more consideration. It seems that 12Ga is the max capacity, and sticking another 18Ga multistrand wire may not be very desirable. Perhaps, a solidcore 18Ga (smaller diameter than multistrand) could be used, or (a better solution) additional 18Ga wires could run from power supply to the RAMBo connector.

2. Pages 52-54. Fan screws 1.75" are just a little too long, and so are the screws for the power switch.
3. Page 56. I would not recommend using the back of a screwdriver to press bearings! Those backs are rounded to fit a hand and will press on the center ring of the bearing. A simple plastic adapter should be supplied for this task (ideally), but a suitable socket will work. A small wise with plastic lips is very handy. Lips are parallel and will press the bearing straight in.

4. Page 89. The sleeves I had in my kit did not have a lip as shown on the picture. So, it was a little confusing.
5. Pages 91-93. Assembling the rollers is so much easier if you chamfer the the holes first. A little twirl of a drill bit without any pressure is enough. Using a small wise also made the assembly a breeze.

Again, the key here is that wise make assembly parallel.
6. This could be a matter of preference, but a silicon tape (cold shrink) could be used instead of wax string for wiring.
7. I've seen some debates here regarding Onyx wires being only 18Ga. I have not got to it yet, but my max bed temp is 85C, so eventually I will have to try upgrading the wires (the cheap solution first).
8. It would be so nice if little wire labels were supplied with the kit, I do not have a good handwriting

Thanks, I hope that somebody could use my ideas.

[omnibus]

Hey builders!

So far the manual has been great!
Question on the EZStruder, picture 10.3-1 on page 96 of the user manual (4.31 released feb 17 2016) seems to be assembled opposite to what is shown the in the checkpoint video. Which one is right? Does it matter?

-Omnibus