Printing Suggestions?

[jjenco]

Hello! I'm hoping I can get some good suggestions for parts I need to print. I'm somewhat new at 3d printing, but built my RoStock V2 and have printed a number of simple parts in ABS very successfully. Now I want to move into complex parts.

I see all these great looking printed parts online, but i wonder how they are actually accomplished. If you print anything beyond an artistic 'blob' (i'm being simplistic here), you're going to have to have bridges and overhangs to make any complex part. Rafts and supports seem to over-complicate the matter.

I've attached a 3D part model as an example of something I'd like to print in ABS or hi-tensile carbon fiber. I've read tips about 'printing cold(er)' and increasing 'air flow', etc, to print such complex parts. Thanks for any suggested printing recommendations the forum denizens can provide!

Looking forward to hearing (and learning) from you!

Best regards,

John

[IMBoring25]

I'm on my phone and can't see the models, but there's a lot of stuff on the STL-sharing sites that is physically impossible to make without supports. A lot of times it comes down to finding or making a model with the functionality you want that is designed in such a way as to facilitate additive construction. It doesn't even always mean sacrificing the elegance of the design, either. Sometimes it's as simple as orienting the part correctly (which, again, isn't always done in the files you find on the web).

Bridges should be short and have straight edges. Convex bottoms are impossible because they would create unsupported "islands" in some number of layers until the layer where the islands meet the rest of the part. Concave bottoms will start as overhangs, and they will need to meet the design guidelines for overhangs.

Conservative overhangs that should be pretty easy on any machine will form an angle of 45 degrees or less with the vertical.

Designed-in supports to create a minimum-interface support for a required feature in a part that otherwise doesn't require support are always an option, as are features like "Mickey Mouse ears" or similar concepts to improve bed adhesion in critical areas.

[jjenco]

Thanks for your thoughts. I'm hopeful that someone will take a look at my part drawing(s) and give me some ideas on manufacture.

[PartDaddy]

Is this your invention? What is the annual volume, 1k, 100k, or 1M's of parts? What surface finish is required? Are higher finishes required on only one side or face? Color? Can fillet radiuses (or corn radiuses change slightly), draft, or minor thickness changes? I pull a straight wall sometimes, but expect drag marks. They wont matter in the t-slot area of this part because people won't see that. But any outside surface will show drag marks as the molded part is ejected from the mold. You also have to consider ejector pin marks and where those go. For the right volume, I still injection mold parts for 'outside' customers (outside meaning non-SeeMeCNC stuff). You can learn a little more on my old website partdaddy.com.

I'll print one today out of Carbon Fiber PETG while I'm working on our new printer stuff. Using the stock RostockMAX V3 on my desk, Cura slicing software, HE280 with 0.5 nozzle, carbon fiber PETG, and our Cura slicing profile for PETG. See links below. I'd normally opt for a smaller nozzle for a small part like this. You'll find that the 3D printed side wall finish and strength through the part are achieved by using the Carbon Fiber PETG. It's simply impressive filament for looks and strength.

I am modifying the PETG profile by changing support to 'everywhere', HE280 temp to 250C, hairspray on 60C glass, and a raft. All other values in the profile are untouched. Of course, if you've modded your machine, your results will not be the same and will require different settings.


Slicing profiles: https://github.com/seemecnc/slicing-profiles
How to setup Cura: https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/c/Setup_and ... ser_Guides
Atomic Filament: https://www.seemecnc.com/products/1-75m ... -1kg-spool

I'll post again with my result and photos.

[jjenco]

Wow, PartDaddy! Thanks so much for the info. I built a RostockMAX v2 last year. I later bought the hi-temp head kit when I found I couldn't print my hi-tensile carbon fiber filament with the stock head. (Seems like the higher temp head kit should have come standard, but that's water under the bridge). I'll check out Cura, as my only experience to date has been using MatterController.

As to your question about quantities, it's a prototype piece. I did a pretty extensive review last month of a new concealed carry holster. One of the things I noted was the need to redesign the belt clip for the AIWB holster configuration to make it more functional and practical; hence this clip. The only DIMS that are critical are those for the 'T' slot, straight slot, and surrounding base material. The belt clip portion of the piece has some dimensional flexibility. There *might* be a small market for this clip as an after-market part, but I would be surprised if it sold more that a few hundred at best over time. So, 3D printing might be the most economical way to go for the potential limited quantities.

Anyway, will check out your links. Let me know how the part shapes up. Thanks again for the great guidance!

[PartDaddy]

Ok, don't criticize me too much on part clean up, I was rushed some. I'd skip "roof" setting under support in Cura for PETG, this part. It works really good on PLA parts. Atomic Filament.

Here's an 8 pound (4kg) Eris hanging off the small nub feature of the AIWB part. Atomic carbon fiber black PETG. I think this is fairly impressive.

The small nub feature close up. All the weight is hanging on this feature. Could be much better with smaller nozzle.

Cura screen shot

The printed part on raft:

Cleanup and a few dimensions:

[jjenco]

Hello PartDaddy - Sorry for the long delay. OBE (overcome by events) here last couple of weeks. I'm sure you know how it goes.

I finally got around to attempting a print of the part we've been discussing. I included a photo of the print I stopped midstream when I realized it wasn't going to pan out. Also included the .ini settings file for the print. Not only did it fail to print the support structure, but it also failed to make the print solid, although both we specified I thought.

Thanks for any insights and corrections.

John

[PartDaddy]

I used straight up "SeeMeCNC" Cura profiles downloaded form our github.com/seemecnc for HE280. My guys perfected, with the exception of checking raft and support everywhere. See the Cura photo above, I highlighted these changes. Then your screen slice should look like mine.

Of course, different hotends, etc., will have different results. I'm just printing with our stock machine! No mods needed to hit the dimensions and quality your looking for (with the exception of our ball joint arms and molded cheapskates for a v2).

[jjenco]

Thanks. I've been using MatterController. Have downloaded Cura but it has no option for setting up a RostockMAX printer. The indicated link above in your last comment (.../seemecnc for HE280) results in a 'page not found' error. Can you provide a link to the correct Cura setup for a RostockMax v2 printer or send by email?

Also, in your last comment, are you saying i need to upgrade the ball joint arms and cheapskates on my v2 to a new style in order for the Cura profile settings to work? If so, I don't see any mention of upgraded components on the seemecnc parts webpage...

Thanks

JJ

[PartDaddy]

In my Sept 13 post:

........

Slicing profiles: https://github.com/seemecnc/slicing-profiles
How to setup Cura: https://seemecnc.dozuki.com/c/Setup_and ... ser_Guides
Atomic Filament: https://www.seemecnc.com/products/1-75m ... -1kg-spool

I'll post again with my result and photos.

[PartDaddy]

We have not submitted profiles yet so our printers show in the list. So you make a "custom" printer. The guide JJ wrote will show you how.

[jjenco]

Ah. Thanks...