http://imgur.com/a/DzGBh" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
[03APR2014] Done! here's a boring video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=p ... BzA6I4dSeg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
My Mom couldn't process a 3D printer in her head so I sent her this video of it in action.
[img]http://www.reactiongifs.com/r/activate.gif[/img]
Questions!
1. Does it matter what black and yellow wires you use from the power supply to the board? [Answered]
2. Is there an efficient way to clean the burnt smudges on the white sides of some parts? [Answered]Jimustanguitar wrote:Every yellow wire is +12v and every black wire is ground. The more the better is the general rule of thumb. You shouldn't have to do anything with red. The green one is the power switch for the ATX supply.
3. The flat side of the LED is the negative side, right? [Answered]Jimustanguitar wrote:I had some burn spots, and windex did the trick.
4. Page 231 tells me to cut off 3.5" from the 18ga wire because I have "a lot of extra 18ga wire" but... My 18ga wire doesn't even make it beyond the power supply coming from the Z axis, which I think is already a problem. Also, I seem to have miles of extra 22ga wire at the base. [Answered]Eaglezsoar wrote:Yes, the flat side at the bottom of the led is the negative side or in this case, ground.
Pingel wrote:Just measured the 18ga stripped outer jacket and I had just under 7 feet total... Should have definitely measured that first... and 8 feet measured on the 22ga jacket.
5. For the extruder steps per mm, if you extrude 10mm... is it 10mm into the hose or 10mm coming out of the hot end?Pingel wrote:I also remembered that I cut off 18" of the 18ga wire for the Onyx bed so I was probably much closer to 10 feet but still ended up short. I'm finishing up the LCD panel now then I'll see how this wiring stuff works out.
6. On the temperature of the hot end, mine constantly varies in a 10 degree window. If it's set at 228 for the print, during the whole print it will constantly go back and forth between 222 and 232. I really doubt this is normal and I have done the PID tuning a few times. Is there another test/calibration to do?
7. I tried changing the speed on the LCD of the printer and I was wondering if you slow down the speed, should you slow down flow too? Would it be better to use the feedrate speed slider in repetier-host?
8. Are either of the fan shrouds required for ABS? I tried printing the PEEK one but I can't get it clean enough to fit the fan into and ending up breaking the casing on the fan. If it's required I'll make one now, sand it down and make the fan work, I'll order a new fan here in a bit. [Answered]
Eaglezsoar wrote:You asked if any of the fan shrouds are important for ABS and although the layer fan is not normally used with ABS
the Peek fan is the most important fan on the printer and should be running when the hotend is heating and should stay
on as long as the hotend has power. Without the Peek fan, you run the risk of melting the Peek section of your hotend and
it is not a matter of if it will melt the Peek section, it is when will it melt the Peek section. You should get that peek fan running
as soon as possible even if you have to hold it in place with bubble gum, it is that important. Please get it running before you do
any other printer, I do not want you to destroy your hotend.
As a side note, the layer fan is normally used with PLA and turns on after the first layer is printed. Some use it with ABS also, but
normally is not required with ABS.