Ahem... moving along.
Or you could cut some 10-32 threads in the aluminum standoffs, and use 3, 1/2"x10-32 button head screws on the effector plate, and 3, 3/4"x10-32 screws on the top plate. You would have to drill out the holes a smidge in both plates.Russ wrote:And be sure to install the three hotend bolts upside down as it it makes it way easier to adjust/remove later. Great RTV job!
I made sure I had everything before starting too. The only things I was missing were a set of hex keys and the wrenches (as far as tools go). I thought I could find the JSTs locally though and I ended up not being able to... It's the first time I couldn't find something local haha. There's this great electronics supplier near by and they've never let me down before... so I was surprisedbot wrote:Dampaaaaaaaaaaaz!!
Thanks, everyone.
Gene, I look forward to seeing the v2 manual! And as for the laser cut pieces, it totally did not take me 3-4 OCD filled hours to remove the pieces. Totally didn't.
I have the hot end standing up in a vice with paper towel to protect the aluminum. I would never put a blade to that beautiful SeeMeCNC box! I will treasure it and use it to hold something cool. (I love small boxes/cases/bottles/containers that can be re-used.)
Aurora, it did take me a while to get to it, but I like being prepared. I made sure that I had every single tool and piece I needed before starting, and that I read Gene's manual completely so I know exactly what to expect. I'm also very lazy.
Russ and Mac the Knife, thanks for the tips on the effector fasteners. I'm aware that the nuts are hard to use on the bottom. I have a hard time changing that arrangement though. My OCD and previous experience from the avaition field tell me to never install a fastener upside down. If the nut comes loose, the screw falls out, there is no longer anything holding the piece in place. If the screw is in the top, the nut can fall free and the effector will still be somewhat in place. I will use some needle nosed pliers or something to hold the nut in place. I've installed some finicky hardware into some ridiculous places (inside of a motorcycle exhaust pipe, for example... heh) so I think I might be able to manage the odd nut placement.
Also, Odd Nut Placement is a good band name. Or a bad one... hard to tell.
Cyberdyne Systems didn't have any part in the design of the Rostock that I'm aware of.bot wrote: Rostock will become self-aware on August 29th, 1997.
I wish I had read this before!Russ wrote:And be sure to install the three hotend bolts upside down as it it makes it way easier to adjust/remove later. Great RTV job!
I'm inclined to agree here. The default configuration results in air being drawn in through various locations in the base, pulled through the rambo and other warm components, then through psu, and then exhausted out the back. By the time it gets to the PSU its pretty much not doing much to cool the PSU down as the air is already warm. This also prompted the move for most high end PC cases to mount the PSU in the same configuration as you have: with the intake pointing down pulling in fresh air to cool itself. The rest of the equipment should have its own cooling. I would venture to say that with the heated bed hitting 90C all the time, it gets pretty warm inside the base. The ambient temperature in my PC is usally around 30C with something on the order of 60C air coming off the graphics card under load.... so we're tripling that temperature with the bed at 90. With that said, I think its even more important that the PSU have its own cool air.bot wrote:I guess it wasn't clear in my photos, but I'm adding two fans that exhaust out the back panels to replace the loss of airflow. As I sai din my previous post, I suspect the orientation of the psu is calling the premature failure people are having. The ambient operating temperature the unit is rated for is not very high.
).I build my PCs, as well as family and friend's... and well, that's my job... I'm a tech lol. I guess it can still be a hobby, and don't get me wrong I love building my PCs... but half the time when I upgrade its not because I need it, its because I want hands on experience with new hardware so I'm better prepared. I do a complete rebuild every 2 years lol (the old hardware gets demoted to either media center or server duty)bot wrote:Clearly I'm into over-engineering and fiddling! haha.
Aurora, I'm glad you agree. I also build all my own PCs! You and I have some sweet hobbies! hah
Teoman, I'm not sure the vibration of the fans would ever come into play. These are pretty lightweight fans and I'm mounting them all with cable ties, so there will already be some degree of flexibility. There really isn't enough inertia in them to cause serious vibration enough to disturb the print. The steppers, even with the dampers, will likely cause more vibration. Noise could be an issue, but I've used all these fans before and know they can all operate virtually silently (the orange when if I turn it down really low
Perhaps... but you'd lose a lot of air flow unless you built a custom shroud for it.... wait a second.... I think i know someone with a thing that can make objects out of plastic... its magic or somethingbot wrote:I have two nice, barely used 120mm with nice spiral flex cord covers just like the hot end... I was contemplating slapping them on the outside with custom enclosure eventually. you're right they are the perfect size to not fit INSIDE! haha.. I was really hoping they would fit, but figured when Russ was running an odd fan size that 120s wouldn't work. Now that I think about it, simply inclining the 120's a bit would give enough clearance... hmmm...
