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Hi

To control UniversalGcodeSender-all32.jar
To upload XLoader

When i upload Grbl 0.8c all time give this message now,
When i ipload your gbrl.hex 9 show normal but freeze or dont move stepmotor

https://support.microsoft.com/kb/976064?wa=wsignin1.0 my 2cents! kkk

Ok, my configuration is probably different than yours - which pins I used for the switch, etc. Go to the start of this thread and scan through until you find my configuration and compare it to yours.

Unfortunately, the dual monitor issue is not a Microsoft issue per se. Its the micro DVI port on the Mac laptop. There apparently are no Windows 7 or 8 drivers that support it - there are many reports of this issue. The issue is that Windows does not see the external display device so there is only 1 (internal) display. Bummer.

Hi,
using Win7 and the grbl by mhackney, I managed to control the machine with the Univeral Gcode Sender (I aslso add a jumper that I had to remove)
The setting I used are:
$0=10 (step pulse, usec)
$1=200 (step idle delay, msec)
$2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000)
$3=0 (dir port invert mask:00000000)
$4=0 (step enable invert, bool)
$5=0 (limit pins invert, bool)
$6=0 (probe pin invert, bool)
$10=3 (status report mask:00000011)
$11=0.050 (junction deviation, mm)
$12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)
$13=0 (report inches, bool)
$14=1 (auto start, bool)
$20=0 (soft limits, bool)
$21=1 (hard limits, bool)
$22=0 (homing cycle, bool)
$23=0 (homing dir invert mask:00000000)
$24=100.000 (homing feed, mm/min)
$25=200.000 (homing seek, mm/min)
$26=250 (homing debounce, msec)
$27=5.000 (homing pull-off, mm)
$100=2000.000 (x, step/mm)
$101=2000.000 (y, step/mm)
$102=2000.000 (z, step/mm)
$110=500.000 (x max rate, mm/min)
$111=500.000 (y max rate, mm/min)
$112=100.000 (z max rate, mm/min)
$120=10.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)
$121=10.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)
$122=10.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)
$130=100.000 (x max travel, mm)
$131=100.000 (y max travel, mm)
$132=200.000 (z max travel, mm)

Well, I am now at the same point where I was back in September - stuck. I can not use CreationWorkshop since it is Winows only and none of my Mac-based Windows solutions can access the projector. I can use the projector with Mac so I know the cable and projector work properly. Even easing OS X and installing Windows 7 on the MacBook so it *should* be a Windows machine fails. The issue is the video out port on the MacBook is a mini DVI port to HDMI. Apparently there are no drivers for it. Hours of googling turned up many others with the same problem. So now I guess the DropLit gets pushed to the back burner until another controller option for Mac becomes available.

Cheers,
Michael

mhackney's i using macmini with windows 8 in my shows with multi touch screen and 2 minidv tha ts out put (DVI, HDMI, DISPLAY PORT, and VGA) and works nice. dual screen.

Lets make you printer back to live kkk, you video card ?

cheers!

my older conf thats gone to hell!

Grbl 0.8c [‘$’ for help]
>>> $$
$0=2000.000 (x, step/mm)
$1=2000.000 (y, step/mm)
$2=2000.000 (z, step/mm)
$3=44 (step pulse, usec)
$4=300.000 (default feed, mm/min)
$5=300.000 (default seek, mm/min)
$6=128 (step port invert mask, int:10000000)
$7=200 (step idle delay, msec)
$8=0.004 (acceleration, mm/sec^2)
$9=0.050 (junction deviation, mm)
$10=0.100 (arc, mm/segment)
$11=25 (n-arc correction, int)
$12=3 (n-decimals, int)
$13=0 (report inches, bool)
$14=1 (auto start, bool)
$15=0 (invert step enable, bool)
$16=0 (hard limits, bool)
$17=0 (homing cycle, bool)
$18=0 (homing dir invert mask, int:00000000)
$19=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)
$20=250.000 (homing seek, mm/min)
$21=100 (homing debounce, msec)
$22=2.500 (homing pull-off, mm)
ok

Not sure what you are saying? There is certainly a difference between a MacMini and MacBook that I've seen folks have success with the mini but not with the macbook. I don't have and won't "upgrade" to Windows 8. I've already given Microsoft enough money to get to this point.

Are you using a mini DVI to HDMI cable? Do you have the Acer P1283 projector?

Ok, subborn headedness and I am now able to project on the projector from Windows 7 on my MacBook. So others who may be in this pickle can benefit from my pain:

1) first, I recalled that I have a mini DVI to VGA adapter I use with my Macbook to hook to projectors when I travel. I connected that instead of the DVI to HDMI. The projector still was not recognized, so...
2) I went to the Device Manger and selected the generic non-PNP display device driver (the built in one) and performed a install update. Windows was able to find and install an update. After rebooting, the projector sprang to life! I do not know if the HDMI will work now but I'm not going to muck with it at this point.

Now I can figure out how to use CreationWorkshop.

mhackney wrote:Not sure what you are saying? There is certainly a difference between a MacMini and MacBook that I've seen folks have success with the mini but not with the macbook. I don't have and won't "upgrade" to Windows 8. I've already given Microsoft enough money to get to this point.

Are you using a mini DVI to HDMI cable? Do you have the Acer P1283 projector?

I using with led panels, tvs, every thing i'm DJ/VJ (http://www.virtualus.com.br) your mackbook ar mid ?? I got a lot of problems with my HDMI native output in mac mini with mac OS, and i bought win8 license. works really fine on-the-fly.

My personal projector are Benq MX613ST ( no color wheels )

I try find one extra upgrade key win7 to 8 thats i have to give u, but i don't stay in my home microsoft give me a OEM key becouse my original key dont make fresh install i need remember where i put this original key .

i change UniversalGcodesender per Grbl Controller 3.6.1 from zapmaker, i did some configs and now motor works smooth (i hope) kkkk
now i need a stella artois ( when i travel to USA i need paid some beers to u )

than back step motor to my FrogLIT kkk
cheers!

Ok, now I'll start to document the basic steps to get that first print. Since everything has to be on Windows, this will be a little easier.

I'm assuming you've already flashed grbl as described earlier. We'll come back and comment the entire process in one place bit for now, I'll focus on preparing to print.

1) Make sure the projector is connected and configured. You'll need to configure it so it does not Duplicate the main display (the default), you want it configured to Extend the main display.

2) Next install the Arduino dev environment if you haven't. This will install the USB device driver for the Arduino board. If you've already been connecting to your Arduino, you can skip this step.

3) Install the latest Creation Workshop. It has a non-intuitive user interface so you'll have to muddle along until you figure it out. Once it is installed, it needs to be configured. I'll attach my configuration to this post once I move over to my Windows machine.

Click the Configure button on the top bar (to the far right).

Create a new machine profile called DropLit.

UPDATE: the X & Y set the resolution and aspect ratio for the printer. I divided my projector resolution (1024x768) by 10 to get reasonable max print dimensions, proper aspect ratio, and 100 micron resolution.

X = 102.4
Y = 76.8

You'll notice that the resolution for X and Y in the Output Resolution (px) box will update, showing 100 microns in my example.

Not sure what Z should be or how it is used

Next you should see your two displays in the Available Displays box. Click the one for your projector (most likely DISPLAY2) and click the + button. The display should now show up under the Configured Displays list (told you it was a kludgy UI).

Next you need to set up the Connection to the Arduino. I show my settings here. You will not see a COM port if you have not installed the driver. My board is configured with the default 115200bps speed.

On the set of checkboxes, only check: Z Axis, Manual GCode, Motors On/Off.

Click the big Apply button to save everything. If you don't you will lose it all.
We'll also need to configure a slicing profile on the other tab but I haven't got that far yet.

TODO:

slicing profile
calibrate display - it is not focused but I did center the image by moving the mirror up and down.

Well, damned the torpedo, full steam ahead! Armed with a bare minimum of knowledge I decided to push forward. I focused my projector on a piece of paper taped down over the hole in the build platform. The focus adjust ring made it easy to adjust. I attempted to use the calibration images Brent has over in the Droplit Projector thread but I could not figure out how to display the image at full size. So I'll punt on that for now.

I also found that you zero these machines by turning the Z screw manually until the build surface touches the polysilane coating on the petri dish. That was easy too. Then I just accepted the defaults for the slicer and had at it.

I pushed Play and stood back to watch this take shape...
A hideous, but solid, blob of plastic. As I was watching it print I noticed that my build "dumbbell" was moving to the left by about 8mm as it approached the bottom of the dish. Turns out my rollers on my Z carriage are not tight and there is a lot of slop. So I am going to figure out how to fix that and try again.

my mirror stay give doble image,

i'll need change and my projector need some supports, Benq shortthrow have native light range 365nm ~ 440nm but lens have 5cm up becouuse st function, i'll need think some to fix it.

Did you install your mirror correctly according to Gene's manual? If you put it in reverse, you might get double images or fuzzy images.

I fixed my Z axis wobble problem and about 25% of the way through my first print. I can't tell what it looks like yet. I do notice some compression on the Z antibacklash nut when it gets to the polysiloxane coating. I suspect I set my Z too close and it is compressing the polysioxane on each "dip" into the vat. It is fascinating to watch this machine, Now I'm hoping I can get it turned and optimized to print clean and relatively fast.

Gene - I just had a "can connect to grbl but steppers won't work" moment. I hate to suggest this as you are far wiser and younger than I, but it turns out you have to have the POWER SUPPLY ON to get power to the stepper driver before they will work! With the power off, the board is getting power from USB so "looks" like it is ready to go.

cheers,
Michael

Second print was a fail too. I need to step back and attack this methodically since there is virtually no guidance on the web. This part was supposed to be the popular Rhomball model. It came out a lump of plastic. It might be that I started too close to the PMS and the first layer didn't stick. It might also be a focus problem. I set my focus at the bottom of the petri dish, I'm not sure how to do it right at the surface of the PMS. I need to find a simpler model to start with, use a larger layer height and try to get a good print.

Getting ever closer one painful step at a time! I've attempted 5 prints at this stage, all failed in spectacular (ok, boring) ways. Firstly, here is the thing I am trying to print scaled to 23mm in diameter.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:337955

So some updated...

Firstly, the build platform on my DropLet is not centered in the projector window. It is about 5mm off to the left. The build platform (dumbbell?) is small so being on target is important. You can adjust Y centering to some degree with the slot and screw. I ended up having to translate the model 5mm in the slicer to get it centered.

Next up, the build surface was/is not parallel to the surface of my PMS. There are a few mechanisms I found on google for adjustable platforms to fix this. For now, I simply shimmed the left side (which was too high) with 3 thicknesses of typing paper. That got me pretty level to the PMS.

Next is the focus. I inadvertently discovered that setting focus on a sheet of paper placed over the projector hole is not good enough. When I put my vat on and clamped it down, I turned on one of the slice layer images and saw it projected to the surface of the PMS! It was actually kind of cool - and out of focus. I reset the focus so it was crisp on the surface of the PMS. That seems much better but I still don't have a good print to show for it.

Finally, my 5th print after making the above changes looked like (I terminated the print at 75% completion):
As you can see, it is stretched along Z. However, my steps per mm calculation is correct and when I actually measure a move of 10mm, I get 10mm of movement! There is a Z parameter in the printer configuration tab that I presumed was the max Z length. I have it set to 150mm. Perhaps that is some form of scaling factor. I set it to 100 and I'm attempting a print now. Jogging using the jog buttons with it set to 100 are still dead on, which I find surprising if this is a scaling factor. I'll see how this print turns out.

Finally, as you can see, the object has a solid shell and you can see some of the structure on it. I would have thought the pores would be even more pronounced since the object was stretched. This probably has something to do with exposure but I can find no information on how to diagnose these artifacts or information on how to pick the exposure. At least the resin is sticking to the aluminum build plate and releasing from the PMS!

Well, that didn't make any difference. With Z set to 100 the print looks exactly like the photos in the previous post.

Hi i back,

I did some mod in my projector (remove UV filter) and now just need close all and pray to print kkkk i using one benq MX613ST

I'm almost there! The mod at http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum answered a post I made (he developed Creation Workshop).

My "Z scaling" issue actually turned out to be an X/Y scaling issue! Steve suggested that and sure enough, that was the problem. Let me show how to set the correct X/Y resolution, Z you can do by measuring actual motion just like a filament extruding printer...

Firstly, I made a 20mm diameter by 5mm tall cylinder to slice so I knew the actual dimensions. Here's the STL:
Install your empty vat with it's PMS or other non-stick coating. Then, bring this STL into CW slicer and slice it. Then go to the Slice View tab and click the little "eyeball" icon in the lower left corner (make sure you are connected to the printer and the projector is turned on and ready to go). This will project the 1st layer of the sliced cylinder onto the PMS. Set the focus so it is nice and sharp at the top of the PMS film. This may not be the best object to set the focus but it should be in the ballpark. Now, measure the diameter CAREFULLY so as not to scratch your PMS coating. I used a caliper. In my case, I measured 13.2mm and I know it is supposed to be 20mm.

Open the Configure Machine tab and click the Adjust button in the Build Size panel. Enter 20mm in for X and Y for the model size and your measured values for the measured size. When you click Ok, CW will automatically calculate your new X and Y resolution. This should also be good enough for now. Later as things start working consistently we can come back and print some standard calibration objects and refine this. But, that solved my scaling issue.

The other thing Steve said was it looked like my object was over exposed. I decreased exposure as suggested and made another print and got this:
I can actually start to see some definition and porosity in the ball - and it's round! There is a post print cleanup/treatment process that I need to work out. I washed this one with ethanol since I didn't have any IPA. It actually seems to be getting better (pores opening up) as it sits here. But perhaps it is still a little overexposed.

So, at this point I have a reasonably calibrated machine and projector. I know how to slice and connect to DropLit from CW. I also know a bit of the basics on slicing. Not bad for 2 days!

Getting close now!!!

Thats looking incredible!!

Instead of worrying about the vagaries of a shaking hand trying not to mar the bottom of the vat with sharp calipers, try cheating.

Laser cut (or print & cut out, or whatever) a disc out of card stock that's 20mm in diameter. Set the disc in the center of the vat and configure CW so that it displays the first ring of the cylinder WAY over size so that it surrounds the disc. Step the scaling down until the image coming out of the projector lines up with the disc. An alternate method would be to print a circle and cut the paper out so that it fills the vat - you should be able to see the projection through the paper and tweak until the circling coming out of the projector aligns with the circle printed on the paper.

g.

Print in progress. Scaled up the ball to about 35mm diameter. This is what it looks like dipping in and out of the tank. I can see the geodesic framework and I'm hoping that it is liquid resin that will wash out with IPA once the print is done. Steve at buildyourownsla.com did think my previous part was still overexposed and rather than decreasing exposure time, to decrease projector brightness. My projector (Acer P1283) is set to Video mode and 50% brightness. I dropped that down to 35% for this print and did not change exposure settings in the sliver. Crossing my fingers &

Well this is it. I still do not have IPA to clean and used methanol instead. I'm guessing this is still overexposed. I'm running another with my projector exposure decreased to 25% (default was 50%). I thought we wanted as much UV from these projectors as possible? But it appears that a longer exposer with lower UV output is more desirable (at least for this resin).

It is a fascinating process and I'm learning more with each print.