Gestalt73's Rostock Max

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gestalt73
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Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

And so it begins...

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Hp4P16v.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by lordbinky »

Right after you use the restroom. That Mt. Dew looks like it's halfway gone already.
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by Batteau62 »

I wonder if Mt. Dew would make a good bed sticking compound? :lol: Welcome to the rabbit hole. :D
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

Heh, the Mountain Dew was part of the Papa John's Delivery from earlier today. Gives me more time to play with my new project.

read through geneb's manual a couple of times, and ended up ordering some extra parts, just in case I screw one up sanding or something:
- extra arms
- extra hot end platform
- extra thermister
- extra carriage base

[img]http://i.imgur.com/zjCDmpV.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

Build progress as of midnight last night.

Platform is complete and buttoned down.
It also is level, I don't see any warping on the top.
These steppers already had the connectors on, which was a pleasant surprise.
(Yes, I left the masking tape over the letters for now, couldn't resist.)

And thank the stars for the http://download.seemecnc.com/rostockmax/packinglist/#/
If it wasn't for that I'd have no idea what some of the nuts/screws/bolts were supposed to be.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/qdMNrxG.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

Seems like small tip, bit if you're having a hard time seeing the alignment lines cut into the black melamine, use some talc (or a tums) to fill the etch line and make it easier to see.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/gEY5Bvj.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

True story, a buddy of mine let me borrow one of his cubify Cubex printers for a while to get up to speed on the ins and outs of 3d printing.

It was fun, but...

I had intended on printing out xnaron's magnetic arm pieces on it to do the conversion during my build.

Turns out, that printer isn't capable of printing things with any precision. And there are no settings to tweak or adjustments to make to improve the print quality. forget printing out any kind of assembly, nothing will fit.
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by lordbinky »

Whip out your micrometer and measure what you are getting out of it and adjust the scad files to compensate. It's not bad at all, I had to do it because I used 1/2" N50 magnets I already had on hand, and used carbon fiber arrow shafts so all my dimensions were all wrong (except the ball bearings) and took an extra part because of my low-cost arrow shaft rods.
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

Have all the hardware and framing mounted.

I'm still not 100% comfortable with how I was able to true and level the platform and extrusions, but I can always go back and make adjustments later.

Base was complete in about 4 hours, getting to this point took 8 more, and a fair amount of that was spent futzing with the framer's square to verify every thing was square and true. I doublechecked all the critical parts before assembly per the manual, so I don't think I have any issues with the laser cuts.

The nail file trick didn't do much for the effector and the cheapskate brackets, ended up using a file on those, but it worked wonders on the arms.

Hopefully tomorrow I can square away the wiring and fire the thing up. :-)

[img]http://i.imgur.com/IMBV1DX.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

So, I guess it's time to get the wiring straightened out...

[img]http://i.imgur.com/VOSJ3WY.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

OK, did a G28, and the arms went down instead of up.

Manual says to recompile the firmware with some values changed, so far so good...

Download the firmware, install arduino ide, not so bad...

OK, you need to open up the Repetiet.ino file in order to load the project, ok...

Code: Select all

// Inverting axis directions are easy, if you find one axis is moving the wrong direction, change the false to true or true to false and re-upload your firmware.  For the extruder, go above to
// extruder_inverse true/false line to reverse it's direction
#define INVERT_X_DIR true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR true
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true
Find the #defs and change, save file, ok...

Now...

(I was too stupid to read down further in the manual where it describes exactly what I needed to do next.)

Ahah, there's a youtube video that describes the firmware compile, upload process here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4yMV18oMbw

So...
  • Set Tools -> Board to Arduino MEGA 2560
    Set Tools -> Serial Port to (COM8)
    Click Upload
    (After upload completed, I then cycled power to the board)
And. Bingo! G28 now resets up instead of down. :-)
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

OK, with the new EZ Extruder and under cover install, it looks like I can reduce the length of the Bowden tube a bit.

As long as I have some slack at maximum extension, I can take some of that off, right?

Also, does this mean that the preferred way to handle the wiring for the hot end is to go straight up through the top, and down the size, like what I did with the extruder wiring?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/v7ElGy9.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

Quick update on my Rostock Max V1

This printer has literally changed my life, and opened up so many opportunities for me.

With this Printer, I've printed parts for several robots, opened up a storefront to sell printing services, and even printed a 2nd printer with it.

In the 3 years that I've had it, it's only required the following maintenance items (done yearly)
- replace gt belts
- go through frame and tighten bolts and screws (I didn't use loc-tite on the initial build)
- remove and clean the lower rear idler bearing*

*this one was surprising, but the lower rear idler bearing contacts the back side of the belt to align it with the belt drive gear. It collects gunk which, over time deforms the belt path and introduces irregularities into the print. It's kinda a b*tch to get to, but definitely required maintenance.

Current modifications:
- Upgraded to 750w PC power supply
- Dampers
- Smoothiboard
- GLCD
- Xnaron's magnetic arms
- Interchangeable effectors
- Geared extruder

While it's very fast, and accurate, even with the dampers, it's still loud. especially compared to my superkossel 2550 build.
Most of the noise factor comes from the fact that each circular melamine frame plate acts as a speaker, amplifying the stepper noises, especially the extruder.

I think the next thing I'm going to do is move to 0.9 degree steppers, and 16 tooth belt drive gears, which should quiet it down and give a smidgen more accuracy with the smoothieboard.

I'm also going to rethink how the extruder is mounted, it needs to be isolated better from the frame.



[img]http://i.imgur.com/0P9WdIoh.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by Eaglezsoar »

Great job on that build! I think that it is great that you opened a storefront and are attempting to make money from your small business.
I certainly hope that the store front has been successful. Let us know if that has been successful for you.
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

So, in what seems to be an annual tradition, my trusty RostockMaxV1 is ready for another set of upgrades.

This time around:
- upgrade to DuetWifi (<-- I LOVE this board!)
- replace belts
- install v3 carriages
- 0.9 degree steppers
- 16 tooth pulley gears
- (re)install FSRs
- install Meanwell 12v PSU @ 14v
- upgrade to Onyx V7 Heated bed (was I think V3)
- install PEI build surface
- use baby blue plastics all around

Rostock is stripped and ready for upgrades
[img]http://i.imgur.com/wSUNm1Gm.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by dc42 »

One thing to watch for is that the use of 0.9deg motors with main power a lot less than 24V may limit your travel speed. After I upgraded my Kossel to 0.9deg motors, I had to limit travel speed to 150mm/sec until I upgraded the power from 12V to 24V. See my blog for more details. The machine was using a Duet 085 at the time, so I chose 1.68A motors. With the Duet WiFi you could choose 2A or 2.4A motors, which have lower inductance and will allow higher speeds at a given supply voltage.

I describe how to estimate the supply voltage you need to achieve full torque at a given target speed at https://duet3d.com/wiki/Choosing_steppe ... e_you_need.
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

dc42 wrote:One thing to watch for is that the use of 0.9deg motors with main power a lot less than 24V may limit your travel speed.
Hery dc42, thank you so much for the tip.

At present all my moves @100mm/s, although my z-lift is currently higher. I get the ghist of what you're saying, and I'll keep an eye out for skipped steps/too low torgue as I build out RostockBlue.

I've been using 0.9 degree steppers in my superkossel build for a year or more, but I don't move anything super fast anymore either.
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by gestalt73 »

Ok, the the meanwell 2v psu is installed. These things have really loud fans, so I removed the 60mm fan and replaced it with a silenx 90mm over the top after cutting out some aluminum from the cover. It doesn't quite fit, it sticks out the back a bit, but that will be fine. The Meanwell PSU is now silent, and I have it turned up to ~14v.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/yLFbh1jm.jpg[/img]

The Duet Wifi is mounted, and all of the wiring is done. I dremelled out a hole and mounted a 40mm fan behind the melanine plate to keep the board cool.
I'll most likely have the base back together tonight.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/Wo8ZP1zm.jpg[/img]
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Re: Gestalt73's Rostock Max

Post by Acidshock »

Any update? Have you thought about doing the EZR struder upgrade? I'm curious how the .9 degree steppers work out.
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