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Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model)

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:28 pm
by JohnStack
Got my kit on Wednesday. If you're going to paint the edges, be sure to prime. I didn't - so I went through three cans of Rustoleum.

I thought the green edges would make the white case and blue plexi covers look schnazzy.

Hours: Unbox and Paint: 2.5

Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model) - Tape Removed

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:39 pm
by JohnStack
Tape removed: 25 mins.

Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model) - Remove UV Filter

Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:30 pm
by JohnStack
Remove UV filter from Optoma W316. Two screws to take off the lense assy - one on the top and one retainer on the assembly. Then two on the front of the assembly.

Probably done out of order but I wanted to see how hard it would be. I have not futzed with zoom controls yet as I'm not sure i need to mess with them.

Time: 5 mins.
20140830_120709 (1).jpg

Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model) - Base Setup

Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:08 pm
by JohnStack
Following MHackney's build - loosely - in fact, too loosely... :oops:

Note the location of the projector bed. Admittedly, I just plow forward sometimes.... ;)
1-Base Setup.jpg
2 - Note Location of Projector Bed.jpg

Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model) Arduino Install

Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:16 pm
by JohnStack
One thing I had to do - since I don't like screws sitting right on top of the Arduino board is that I ground down some standoffs.
6 - Grind Down Standoffs.jpg
Note that I have not installed the Grabl shield - but I did do something else. I installed an eight-pin connector. I don't really like soldering wires directly to boards.

Also, note that i used a 4-pin two-way connector where the servo motor plugs in. I think this helps you avoid bad wiring. All you do is bend the two outside pins out a bit, insert and screw in tightly. I added a bit of loc-tite to the screws.

Adding Connectors to Grable Shield.jpg
How the end stop wire will hook onto the Garbled Shield.
More Connectors.jpg
Standoffs ground down.

I saw the holes in more or less the middle of the projector platform but I thought, well, if it's like other printers, the arduino board will be right up against the hole! Why not? Here's a why not: Your power supply won't fit then! LOL Whoops! Here's a photo of me being very careful to mark the incorrect location.
Arduino in future fated location and power switch installed. Ok, I guess I'll mount the Arduino where SeeMeCNC intended. I will also do some kind of wire tie holder thing for the cable. I'd hate to have to have that pulled out accidently. That would mean pulling off the power cover and power supply to get at it!
7 - Arduino Mounted Ready to move.jpg
8 - Power Switch and Arduino in place.jpg

Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model) - Perfect time to not

Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:38 pm
by JohnStack
This is a perfect time to note that if someone has built one and posted photos, you should take a better look!

This is the phase that I call "Bonding". My screwed up definition consists of me trying trying trying as the hairs on the back of my neck are standing up - when I really should be researching previous successes a bit more.

I reversed the projector platform to support the projector properly and started mounting the top extrusion holder. Also, I already am pulling my Arduino out and installing it in the proper SeeMeCNC- prescribed location.
11 - Beam Brackets installed.jpg

Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model)

Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:38 am
by mhackney
Build looks good John. Sometimes we just have to plow forward and discover things for ourselves! I like that green edging! I'm too impatient to wait for paint to dry.


Re: Stack's Droplit Build (Beta Model)

Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:01 pm
by JohnStack
I used a dremel to shift the Arduino about 3/4" towards the front. The Arduino + the Gray Bell + the power supply = no fit.
12-New Arduino Location.jpg
I got a 6-pin Video Card Cable from Frys and twisted the ends together so that more amperage could be drawn to the Arduino if needed. Note that I marked the power supply as a reminder for the correct placement of the servo cable.
13-Grbl Board setup.jpg
Everything is now neat and tidy. I cut off most of the cables. The similar colored ones were grouped together and then I used heat shrink to cover their ends. On single color wires, I just capped them.
14-Everything Neat and Tidy.jpg
I also used heat shrink on the servo motor cable and end stops. For the end stops, it makes pushing it down the extrusion hole easier. Note that there are little holes for cable ties on the sides of the Droplit. For some reason, they are only on one side. If you choose the wrong side, your power supply + arduino wiring + the cable holes might not be placed correctly. The easiest solution is for the guys to put the holes on both boards.
15-Extrusion Set and Wiring Cleaned Up.jpg
Bearings are paired with their plastic bearing mates. And then I found out (remember, I plow into things.....) that I don't have the spacers between the bearings and the melamine plates.
17-Bearings Set Up.jpg
So I went to the hardware store to see if I couldn't get some aluminum spacers to use instead. This is what I saw. (I live about a mile away from a beach.)
18-Welcome to California.jpg
In the end, the spacers would work but I'm a rep-rapper. John Oly laughed and sent me this link to print my own: Of course I have bright green filament! Stay tuned for the next installment. I have to order a petri dish today too. ... tion=100mm" onclick=";return false;

Last note: I have not attached the bottom screws to the sides nor have I installed the bottom yet. I want to get things powered up and running before I button this thing up. Since I painted the sides, the fittings are very tight. Also, pulling out the power supply to access the wiring is a bit sketchy.

In general, with this particular design, as you pull out the power supply (if you had to work on your board), you may be pulling wires off the Grey Bull or worse, catching wires and removing insulation. I would recommend a removable bottom - while still affixing the Arduino to the bottom of the projector base plate.