MuggsMAX

[Muggs]

Hello All,

Pretty new to the forum, this is my first post but I've been lurking for a while now. I bought a TAZ 5 and so I have, as you can imagine, been reading everything I can on 3D printing.
I was having a LOT of problems with my TAZ, but I have that all sorted out now, thanks in no small part the mhackney who of course is also a member here. Anyway, in reading all I can on 3D printing I came upon these things called Delta printer and I thought, I have a 3D printer I could make a Delta printer. I'm of the opinion that there's no better way to learn than to do.

I'm a designer and work for myself. I use SolidWorks everyday inn my job, so I thought I would draw something up and see what I could come up with.

And rather than reinventing the wheel as it were, I thought I would start with, in my mind, the best design so far, the RostockMAX.

So, without further ramblings...

Not finished by a long shot but it's a start.
I have bought and made a lot of what I need, but I have some questions on some other items, that I thought the nice people here could help me with. Please speak up if there are any obvious flaws in my design.
Mostly right now I not sure what to do about the bed so overall diameter is not set, nor could I get a definitive length of the rails (32"?).

[Eaglezsoar]

The length of the rails can be as long as you wish.
The diameter is limited by the size of the heat bed you can obtain.
I see no glaring issues with the basic drawing but you must be careful with the details such as rail placement, etc.

[Jimustanguitar]

Search for TrickLaser Metal Max... You'll like it.

[Eaglezsoar]

Search for TrickLaser Metal Max... You'll like it.

Excellent idea Jim.

[Muggs]

Cool, Thanks!

OK, questions 1 and 2:
1. 12V or 24V PS? 24V seems like a no-brainer, are there any drawbacks?
2. My NEMA 17 motor choices are many. Which one, and where is a good source?

[teoman]

24v vs 12v, it all depends what you have. If your heated bed heats up nicely with 12V then no need for 24V.

12V for the rest of the system is fine in my opinion.

[Nylocke]

24V has a lot of good things with it, the motors can move faster, bed heats faster, etc, but some electronics boards handle it better or worse. I know the RAMBo's large fuse needs to be changed if you plan to use it with 24V (at least with the Onyx). The other thing is you will have to buy specifically 24V heaters. IME, 12V fans run fine on 24V (Makerbutt Replicators use a 24V PSU, we had to replace the fans and all I had was 12V and they are still running alright).

[jmpreuss]

12V fans run fine on 24V (Makerbutt Replicators use a 24V PSU, we had to replace the fans and all I had was 12V and they are still running alright).

Not sure if that is good advice, several people have damaged their Makerbot boards by accidentally running 12v fans. Fans are cheap, boards are not.

[Nylocke]

I wasn't aware of that.

[DanHall]

Certainly not on the same plane as killing a board but I had a 12V fan die pretty quickly on a 24V power supply. It was the cooling fan on an E3D hot end so it caused a few other problems.

[Muggs]

OK, so 12V should Sofice. I'll order one up today. Any thoughts on the drive motors and a good source?

[teoman]

What heated bed shall you use?

[Muggs]

Well, that's actually another of my questions. Probably the Onyx bed.
I've been seeing what Werner Berry did with Ni-chrome wire, and think it is very cool, but I don't think I understand enough about it.

Any suggestions?

[teoman]

Then i would go with the 24V.

Or use very thick wires if going 12V.

They had some rev 3's that were good with a 24v suppluy

[Nylocke]

They are discounted too.

Looking around it is a bad idea to run 12V Fans on 24V, I wasn't really thinking about the I in the equation, it just seemed like the fan "just worked"

[KAS]

DC-DC converters are cheap. I'd go for the 24v and just run all the 12v stuff off the converter.

[Muggs]

The RAMPS/Arduino has no problem with the 24V?

[Nylocke]

Theres a regulator on the board that converts whatever input voltage (something like 12-36 volts (depending on the board)) to 5V for the arduino logic.

[teoman]

I would use the 24v only for the heated bed.

Or you need to fiddle with the fans and fuses etc...

[Muggs]

Hello Gents!

So I had some time to work on the MuggsMAX today. I've been printing parts (when my TAZ 5 is working, but that's another story) And I was able to do some assembling today.

Some details:

I decided to go with a 12V power supply. Also I upload my Repetier firmware to the arduino/RAMPS board and everything seems good to go.

More to come.

[TFMike]

Hello Gents!

So I had some time to work on the MuggsMAX today. I've been printing parts (when my TAZ 5 is working, but that's another story) And I was able to do some assembling today.

IMG_0056.JPG

IMG_0057.JPG

Some details:

IMG_0059.JPG

IMG_0060.JPG

IMG_0061.JPG

I decided to go with a 12V power supply. Also I upload my Repetier firmware to the arduino/RAMPS board and everything seems good to go.

More to come.

looks excellent

[bvandiepenbos]

looking good

[Eaglezsoar]

looking good

Brian, any estimate on when the TrickLaser Metal Max will be shipped?

[TFMike]

I am about to start a big build myself and was wondering if I could "borrow" (ahem) some of your solidworks files? If so could you be a dear and convert them to parasolids so I can more easily work with them in Inventor? If you want to keep it closed source I understand but if you wanted to share them that would be awesoem as well. Thanks

[Muggs]

TFMike,

Yeah I have no problem at all with sharing what I have. What is the best way to get these out to you or whom ever wants them? Gethub, Thingyverse, something else?

Just keep in mind that I am designing these parts "on the fly", but If I make them available in ParaSolid format then the user could make any changes that they feel are necessary.