lordbinky wrote:From what I understood, and it ended up being similar for me, was the tensioner at the top wasn't directly centered over the extrusion. So you're not taking a measurement to either belt, but the midpoint between them. Which would be the equivalent to the center of a rod setup.
.lordbinky wrote:Off the top of my head, I would think it'd something with aligning the belt to the back of the carriage plate. That would keep you from having the belt's angle to the carriage change as it's height is changed. Could be complete nonsense too though.
Around 6:40 when you talk about tower rotation and high/low spots. Are you saying subtract for clockwise and add for counter-clockwise rotation?MSURunner wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qrrO0elG ... e=youtu.be
Here's the quick first draft video of the calibration process I went through. I forgot to mention that when using the calibration tool, you want to leave it still attached to the printer bed, do not simply toss it up there as I do in the video for demonstration sake only. Anyhow, it should get someone pretty close without having to do a ton of guess and check, but there is still some print, examine, adjust, print again involved, particularly once you get to the bed level guide.
Wait. What? Where?cassetti wrote:I'm even more motivated to get my rostock calibrated now that the Rostock Max2 was just announced!
I was going to do something similar with aluminum and I'm glad I don't have to. Will they offer a wood-only upgrade kit for us? I'll be the FIRST to buy it!geneb wrote:The new base plate uses square holes instead of notches for the towers. The fit is extremely snug and does a very good job of constraining the towers. I seriously doubt there's going to be any rotation issues with the new design.
I'm not kidding about the "snug" part either - they actually squeak from the friction as you set them down in the holes. They've added a #4 screw to the tower supports so the tower will stop when it hits that screw. There's a mate to that on the top as well which virtually guarantees the correct depth of each tower and the correct height of the top of the machine.
Hi Guys!626Pilot wrote:I dug up some notes I took while I was adjusting the tower rotations. This may help you to figure out my thought process. It's pretty in-depth. The idea is to examine not only the towers, but the arc BETWEEN the towers, because problems often manifest right there.
- For each iteration, I printed out this Onyx bed leveling aid to see where the lines were too fat or too thin: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50505" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
- The object was printed without adhesive each time. I wanted the bed totally clean.
- You will notice some tower re-leveling. Ideally this should be done each time you think you're done with a tower, and then you should confirm it with another test print. If only Repetier's Z probe logic wasn't horribly broken
- There is an option for radius delta in the firmware, one for each tower. Leave these at 0 unless you want your parts to climb to one side like a 1980s surfer hairdo. I wasn't able to fix anything at all by adjusting these settings.
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Legend --------------- High: ^ Level: = Low: v Example: "X to Y: = ^ =" Meaning: "Level around X tower, then high between X and Y, then level around Y tower." Problems --------------- - Lifts between X and Y towers - Dips between Y and Z towers - Lifts between Z and X towers Base calibration - towers centered, towers at stock angles and radius deltas. X: = Y: = Z: = X to Y: = ^ = Y to Z: = v = Z to X: = ^ = Focusing on fixing Y-Z arc first, Z-X arc less significant but will watch. --------------- Changing Y rotation from 330 to 330.5: X: _ Y: = Z: ^ X to Y: = ^ = Y to Z: = v ^ Z to X: ^ v Looks like the X and Z towers need to be releveled - did that. --------------- Testing again: X: = Y: = Z: = X to Y: = Y to Z: = v = Z to X: = ^ = Y-Z and Z-X (both of which are next to Z) are off. However, X to Y (opposite Z) is fine. Therefore, the Z tower probably needs some adjustment. --------------- Changing Z rotation from 90 to 89.5: X: = Y: = Z: = X to Y: = Y to Z: = Z to X: = ^ = (better than last time though) --------------- Let's try releveling the towers and changing Z from 89.5 to 89.25: (note: this was lazy... don't change two variables at once) X: = Y: = Z: = X to Y: = ^ = Y to Z: = ^ = Z to X: = --------------- That made Z-X better at the expense of X-Y and Y-Z, so let's backtrack and try going the other direction to 89.6: X: = Y: = Z: = X to Y: = ^ = Y to Z: = Z to X: = ^ = This produces the least vertical deflection of anything tried so far and is "Good Enough." In other words, close enough to stick and far enough not to block the nozzle.
Easier said than done. I'd rather not open that can of worms. I've already gotten this far.bubbasnow wrote:update to .91
I probably will after I fix these belts try 0.91. But you're saying there is a way to fix this in the old firmware? Where is it?If you value your long-term sanity, just bite the bullet and upgrade to 0.91. That way, you can put the values directly into the EEPROM screen. Otherwise, you will have to recompile/reflash the firmware dozens and dozens of times, which is probably what people in Hell have to do these days.
626Pilot wrote:The tower rotations are in the firmware somewhere. I don't know if they're in Configuration.h. Either Repetier or Marlin keeps them somewhere else but I don't recall which one.
