Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Got the v6 on Monday, the MAX has been running ever since. So far so good. The ABS prints are looking sharp. I have not attempted PLA just yet. I would like to get my ABS prints out of the way just in case.

got 2 yesterday, gotta wait for the weekend to put them together

aerouta wrote:Got the v6 on Monday, the MAX has been running ever since. So far so good. The ABS prints are looking sharp. I have not attempted PLA just yet. I would like to get my ABS prints out of the way just in case.

Is the E3D v6 a direct replacement on the Rostock Max v2?
Are then any modifications that have to be performed in order to replace the stock hot end with the E3D v6?

Do you have any pictures of the mounting?

Shizuma wrote:So I'm wondering, but is there any advantages to the V6 over the V5 for printing ABS?

I own a V4, V5, and V6, and they all have been fantastic for printing ABS. There are some design improvements in V6 like the screw in lock for the thermistor and the bowden tube extending further into the cold end which may lower extrusion force a bit, but I haven't seen an improvement over the already stellar ABS printing performance.

With regards to PLA, I couldn't print it at all with the V4, had some issues with the V5 until I performed mhackney's nozzle bore shortening, and so far the V6 has performed flawlessly out of the box.

Josshe wrote:

aerouta wrote:Got the v6 on Monday, the MAX has been running ever since. So far so good. The ABS prints are looking sharp. I have not attempted PLA just yet. I would like to get my ABS prints out of the way just in case.

Is the E3D v6 a direct replacement on the Rostock Max v2?
Are then any modifications that have to be performed in order to replace the stock hot end with the E3D v6?

Do you have any pictures of the mounting?

See these links for more info on the V6 E3D:
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5499" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 67&start=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=54&t=5444" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks again Eaglesoar,

I've ordered the E3D v6.
I'm going to print the mounts however I'm guessing I should use ABS rather than PLA... correct?

I found the .stl files on both Thingiverse and Repables /r/296.

There are many files on Thingiverse but not sure which ones to use for my Max v2.

So do i use the two on repables and are they the latest?

I'm looking for another print for the layer fan shroud.

Josshe wrote: I'm going to print the mounts however I'm guessing I should use ABS rather than PLA... correct?

Yes, absolutely. No PLA parts anywhere near the hotend - that's just asking for problems.

bdjohns1 wrote:

Josshe wrote: I'm going to print the mounts however I'm guessing I should use ABS rather than PLA... correct?

Yes, absolutely. No PLA parts anywhere near the hotend - that's just asking for problems.

Got it...

Now which set of files do i use, Thingiverse or Repables?

Josshe wrote:

bdjohns1 wrote:

Josshe wrote: I'm going to print the mounts however I'm guessing I should use ABS rather than PLA... correct?

Yes, absolutely. No PLA parts anywhere near the hotend - that's just asking for problems.

Got it...

Now which set of files do i use, Thingiverse or Repables?

The file on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:346200 isn't actually hosted there. I got miffed with Makerbutt and so the .stl only points to the Repables file you found, this one: http://repables.com/r/296/

If you want to keep the stock layer fan, choose the version called 'e3d v6 both parts for stock layer fan.stl'

McSlappy,

Thank you for clearing that up.
I saw that you were not liking Maker...

Thank you for the files!

Now I'm really excited about upgrading my R.M. v2

I dunno, perhaps it's too soon... Perhaps it's not worth being against them... I guess I'm miffed at where they started and where they've gone.

You were supposed to bring order to the force Makerbot, not join the dark side...

Anyone have tips for printing PLA on the v6?

I'm getting jamming/clogging issues at 200c and fan at 100%.

A little plug forms after a little while. It doesn't drip/leak like the stock hot end, but I'd rather have that instead of jamming.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/CKxg81u.jpg[/img]

bdjohns1 wrote:

Josshe wrote: I'm going to print the mounts however I'm guessing I should use ABS rather than PLA... correct?

Yes, absolutely. No PLA parts anywhere near the hotend - that's just asking for problems.

I only use PLA. My E3D mount and the fan duct I'm working on are printed in it. The only problem I've ever had is forgetting to turn on the fan, which has caused some of my mounts to get soft and wobbly, but I'd have the same issue with ABS.

jesse wrote:Anyone have tips for printing PLA on the v6?

What are your retraction settings?

Is the PTFE tube seated allllllll the way down, as far as it will go?

Have you done the "ideal heat test?" Set the temp to 180, wait for it to stabilize, then set the temp to 240 and feed the PLA through as the temperature climbs. Resistance should drop, and then begin to increase. The point where the resistance is lowest is the ideal heat. Keep in mind that E3Ds usually run hotter than other hot ends (due to the lower thermal mass) so it's common for PLA that prints at 180 on other hot ends to require anywhere from 210-250 on an E3D.

jesse wrote:Anyone have tips for printing PLA on the v6?

I'm getting jamming/clogging issues at 200c and fan at 100%.

A little plug forms after a little while. It doesn't drip/leak like the stock hot end, but I'd rather have that instead of jamming.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/CKxg81u.jpg[/img]

Last night, I was about to post something in this regard. It seems that you are having the same trouble I got.

Quick answer that worked for me: lowering retraction to 4mm (6mm should work as well). I am printing at 185C (verified by a thermocouple) with no problem.

Long answer: wait for my post

Something before the Long answer, it seems to me that the "interface" Bowden, metal, creates this bulge when the filament is removed fast from the nozzle.

The second problem I was having with this, is when changing the filament. It is almost impossible (at least for me) to take the filament out through the ez-extruder bore with this bulge.

I had to modify the EZ extruder to allow the Bowden tube to go all the way to the hobbed drive roller. I will try to post it tonight, if have time to put the pictures together

But, try reducing the retraction to 4mm and report back.

Cheers!

626Pilot wrote:

jesse wrote:Anyone have tips for printing PLA on the v6?

What are your retraction settings?

Is the PTFE tube seated allllllll the way down, as far as it will go?

Have you done the "ideal heat test?" Set the temp to 180, wait for it to stabilize, then set the temp to 240 and feed the PLA through as the temperature climbs. Resistance should drop, and then begin to increase. The point where the resistance is lowest is the ideal heat. Keep in mind that E3Ds usually run hotter than other hot ends (due to the lower thermal mass) so it's common for PLA that prints at 180 on other hot ends to require anywhere from 210-250 on an E3D.

Hey, thanks for the "ideal head test" thing. I wasn not aware of that!

I recommend not using the E3D v6 at this point with PLA. It jams extremely easily and it's difficult to unjam.

jesse wrote:I recommend not using the E3D v6 at this point with PLA. It jams extremely easily and it's difficult to unjam.

I think I fixed it. The hot end was taken apart and rebuilt. The threads were locked using thread locker for the heatblock and heatsink. The fan was at 100% the whole time while the hot end was turned on.

The 1/4 turn outwards for the nozzle was carefully followed. That should keep the liner directly connected to the nozzle without any gap. If the steel liner isn't directly and tightly against the nozzle, then plastic can pool/fill that space and get clogged.

It seems like PLA is the hardest filament to print with metal hotends because it thermally expands and greatly increases its coefficient of friction inside the heat break. That stuff gets rubbery and grippy as soon as it warms up. Maybe it would be better to increase the diameter of the heat break hole?

I had weird problems when I used thread locker on my v5. It's better to just assemble it according to the manual.

I'm finding the key to printing PLA is shorter retracts, like 3-4mm. Start at 3 and see how much further you can push it. I get spiderweb-thin strands at 3mm.

Well, as I mentioned in a previous post, I had being troubled switching filaments using E3D V6, as, for some reason, the filament bulges more than with V5. Then it is very difficult (if not impossible) to make it goes trough the little hole in the EZ-Extruder.

You can see that I got something similar to what Jesse got.
So, I decided to bore the EZ-Extruder (I remember mhackney mentioned this in other post) to make allow the bowden tube go through all the way up to the hobbed drive roller. See the pics
So far, it is working great

Cheers.

Sanjay has posted a new E3D troubleshooting guide on the E3D forum at http://e3d-online.com/E3D-Troubleshooting" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

artexmg wrote:Well, as I mentioned in a previous post, I had being troubled switching filaments using E3D V6, as, for some reason, the filament bulges more than with V5. Then it is very difficult (if not impossible) to make it goes trough the little hole in the EZ-Extruder.

You can see that I got something similar to what Jesse got.


So, I decided to bore the EZ-Extruder (I remember mhackney mentioned this in other post) to make allow the bowden tube go through all the way up to the hobbed drive roller. See the pics


So far, it is working great

Cheers.

How do you keep the bowden tube in the bored out EZ without the PTC piece that holds it up there? Do you use a pass through PTC fitting to keep it in the EZ?

Moeparker wrote:

artexmg wrote:Well, as I mentioned in a previous post, I had being troubled switching filaments using E3D V6, as, for some reason, the filament bulges more than with V5. Then it is very difficult (if not impossible) to make it goes trough the little hole in the EZ-Extruder.

You can see that I got something similar to what Jesse got.


So, I decided to bore the EZ-Extruder (I remember mhackney mentioned this in other post) to make allow the bowden tube go through all the way up to the hobbed drive roller. See the pics


So far, it is working great

Cheers.

How do you keep the bowden tube in the bored out EZ without the PTC piece that holds it up there? Do you use a pass through PTC fitting to keep it in the EZ?

The pictures I posted are not complete, tonight (I am at work at this moment) I will post the final process. But yes, I passed through PTC.

I actually made a new bowden adapter (the aluminum part) that is bored through and tapped so I could use the PTC that came with the E3D hot end. That PTC is specially made to pass the bowden tube straight through.

cheers,
Michael