SeeMeCNC H-1 Ultra

[kilroyo]

Well I don't have it quite done yet, but I thought I would put it out there. Started off with replacing my x-axis plastic parts because I had melted the side of one of the tri-bearing housings, well after that I just started replacing this and that until I pretty much replaced everything. Did upgrade the x and y axis with 5/16 linear rod and bronze bearings. Used 3/8 linear rod and linear bearings for the Z-axis as well as 1/4" Acme screw and nuts. Replaced all the pulleys with aluminum timing pulleys. Bout the only thing that didn't get replaced was the extruder and the threaded rod on the y-axis ends. I did purchase Ramps board and lcd, but havent quite figured where I'm going to mount it. I didnt want to change the overall design because I wanted it to stay a seemecnc 3d printer, and I if I changed it too much, it would cease to be one. Its probably gonna be alittle while longer until I am able to finish it, but I'm excited about finally seeing how it will print. Even everything being aluminum, its considerable heavier than the old one. Now it just needs one of those new black nylon extruder frames.

[tom10122]

Nice,nice move with the aluminum, when I was building mine I had to take the front off and ended up almost breaking my plastic pieces in half. As for the bearings I actually put them on the outside of the carriage and pla welded them to it, not pretty but its safe from the heat.

[kilroyo]

The one thing I really like about it now, is how rigid it is. Before, I had alot of play, and I didnt see a way to remove it without replacing the plastic parts because they gave to much. It was much easier getting everything together and working with the plastic, but with aluminum it all has to be all dead on. I had good prints before I switch over to aluminum, but I think alot of folks neverless start a quest to improve the quality and I'm one of them. I understand not everyone has a machine shop at their disposal, but I thought I would still share my experiences. I am interested to hear how the new h-1-1 upgrades have improved the machines and I probably would have bought one if I had not already started on this one. I still think I might have to change up the X-axis alittle. I rather not have linear rods as the support structure, but be more like the Y-axis, with its own frame. I think it might minimize any twist that could occur

[kilroyo]

Added the lcd for ramps ,, still got more work to do, waiting on the new extruder and still have to finish up with the limit switches. Don't ask about the screws on the lcd mount, nothing like spending time making something only to discover you measured wrong, and you sure don't feel like starting over

[kilroyo]

underneath view

[bvandiepenbos]

very nice.
I am curious how the extra weight will affect print speed.
Love the machined aluminum parts.
You probably could reduce the weight and still be strong by making pockets and lighting holes every place possible.
Done carefully I bet I would be nearly as light as the plastic parts.

[kilroyo]

Spent a week trying to get all the axis aligned perfect, but one side of my z-axis was giving me a heck of a time. And I just couldnt get it to work without jamming, , tore it apart only to find the acme screw was drilled and taped off-center , at $2.00 a pop think the quality would of been better, but they all were of low quality, picked them up from mcmaster-carr , replaced it and now im able to get the machine going just fine. Lesson learned to always check the quality of your parts and not assume because of the supplier its going to be good.

[kilroyo]

Yeah , I dont know how its gonna affect the print speed, but I'll take quality or speed. But I'm getting ready to run some test to see how it will sortly. I'll try and post a video if I can.

[kilroyo]

Here's a picture of it finished ... I did zip off a print the other day and it went pretty good, except for the new extruder, it jammed a couple of times, probably have the gears to tight or something. Everything is mounted to the printer,ie ramps, power supply so I dont have to lugg around anything extra, but I think Im going to have to add some sort of a handle. I do plan to add another extruder for dual extruders. The easiest would be to change it over to bowden cable, and move the steppers offline. But I want to keep the extruder design the same. So I'm looking at how to modify it for this case. Also investigating a different approach for the nozzle, currently the filament is extruded in a round tube layer by layer and you get the lincoln log effect when building your part up, currently pretty much all the reprap printers are like this. But this is what contributes to its weakness and ill looks of the finished part. Looking to design a nozzle that will extrude in more of a square fashion and adhere or pushed into the previous layer for better adhesion.

[kilroyo]

Well I have cooked two of my stepsticks. Apparently there is an issue I'm having between Marlin and slicer I think. For some reason if I put say 20mm or 30mm for speed I get some really high numbers in my Gcode for Feed, Like F11,700. And when the program runs on the printer, its crazy fast and jams. If I put in 10mm for speed in slicer, I'll get feeds in the F300 range, and I can do a print. I been wanting to test the speed, but if I put anything above 10, eventually it causes the stepstick to fail permanently. Took me alittle while to figure out what was going on. I dont know if its some kind of multipler math going on in marlin, or the feeds are normal for the gcode. or I have an issue with Slicer. Is the feed number in the gcode in steps or in mm? Gotta order more stepsticks. I can say I never had an issue with overcurrent with the TB6560. I really like the ramps board, but it does seem to be alittle on the weak side.

[kilroyo]

Thought I would post a small video of it running ,, blue led lights dont help much , might have to change them to white leds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VCJqlfGZDgo

[johnoly99]

Good god man! That is awesome!

[kilroyo]

I had to get rid of those blue led lights and go with the white ones, they just didn't work out so well. With the smell of burnt plastic running through out the house when I was printing, added a exhaust hood. Not my best work by far. But atleast its something. Used one of those computer muffin fans and exhaust thru the top of the hood. Picked up a small air filter replacement for one of those little air cleaner at walmart, has a filter material and activated charcoal in it, should work good. Just so happened to fit perfectly for where I needed it. I do have a carry handle now, but the thing is heavy, don't know if I'll be carrying it anywhere. I'm thinking of enclosing the whole thing.

[tom10122]

Damn that's nice wish I had a cnc to do that .

[kilroyo]

So I thought I would show what Ive been working on. Well since adding the hood, thought I might as well just enclose the whole thing. Started on building the doors, wanted something different, its a pretty far out there design. They slide out sideways, I have a dc motor and timing belt mounted up under the hood that move the doors out and in, re-purposed the motor from an old printer. I still need to add some limit switches. I'm thinking I would like to add one button to control opening and closing and also tied into ramps, so when it gets done printing ,the doors open up and the table comes to the front. Still tweaking it here and there, and need to start to work on enclosing everything. But I want to do something unique and different for the rest of the enclosure. I'll post a movie once everything is working good.

[stienman]

With the angled door like that what does your build volume look like now? Can you still get the full 6" of y axis movement with a 6" tall object?

[Fiero2M6]

Wow! This is incredible. Nice work.

[kilroyo]

Here's a pic from the inside looking at the door mechanics

I am having a few issues with the bronze rollers and its not quite as smooth as I would like it, might have to change or improve a few things

as far as the space I do get the full length available, but the doors are at a 70 degrees slant, so if I did print a box the full length of the table 6" tall it would hit the doors at the front, but then I could just open the doors for the print.

[PartDaddy]

Wow. Very nice work.