Trick Laser MAX METAL Build

[626Pilot]

I got the motors and endstops hooked up to the controller last night and fired everything up. I used M119 to verify that the endstops were working. Then, I used Repetier Host's belt calculator to figure out the steps/mm for the new 0.9-degree motors and 20-tooth pulleys. I put that into config on the SD card (I'm using Smoothie). The settings didn't take, so I typed M503 and realized that the M-codes that tell the printer the steps/mm are saved in config-override. I sent the right M-codes and then typed M500 to save them.

I was expecting these motors to sound a little different than the stock 1.8-degree ones, but they sound about the same. Even standing on its rubber feet, the printer is kinda loud, enough to be heard behind a closed door. I wish I had installed the Astrosyn dampers I was using before, but the thread locker has already set on the grub screws, so that's out. I updated the instructions to recommend those dampers specifically. I tried some foam ones I got elsewhere, but they didn't do anything. Dampers that let the screws pass through from the frame to the motor don't help as much as they could, because vibration is just going to go straight through the screws and into the frame. With Astrosyns, you get two plates separated by rubber, and the motors are fastened to the dampers with different screws than the ones that fasten the dampers to the frame.

I notice the print height is slightly less than the old MAX. If you use shorter endstop adjustment screws, you can gain that height back, plus a little more. (The stock ones are super long!)

Now, I have to figure out how to drill the holes for the snowflake. I think it's possible to develop a 3D printed mounting solution that doesn't require drilling holes, but at the moment I have nothing to print it with.

[626Pilot]

First calibration attempt. This is with the glass sitting on top of the snowflake. PCB not installed, and nothing is screwed down, so it isn't in its final configuration and may not have the best repeatability. Nevertheless, the numbers are about 40-60 microns better than they were on my Rostock MAX v1. Commands sent were G32 (GeneB calibration), then G31 OPQRS T0.01 (simulated annealing calibration).

Code: Select all

[PK] Current kinematic settings:
[PK]           Arm length: 272.416
[PK]         Delta radius: 133.678
[PK]      Endstop offsets: {-0.144, 0.000, -1.266}
[PK] Radius offsets (ABC): {0.486, 0.000, 0.000}
[PK]  Angle offsets (DEF): {-1.630, -1.581, -1.276}
[PK]     Virtual shimming: {-1.729, -0.682, -0.875}, vector={-0.006, -0.002, 1.000}, d=1.123, Enabled
[PK] Depth (Z) correction: Disabled

[HC] Checking calibration. If it's worse than it was before, you may have to run this several times!
[DM] Depth to bed surface at center: 1300 steps (8.125 mm)

[PD]                                    0.056
[PD]
[PD] [  --  ]     0.131     -0.019      0.013      0.031      0.013    [  --  ]
[PD]
[PD] [  --  ]     0.025     -0.031      0.006      0.019     -0.031    [  --  ]
[PD]
[PD]   0.275     -0.081     -0.056      0.000      0.025     -0.062      0.044
[PD]
[PD] [  --  ]    -0.075     -0.112     -0.050     -0.031     -0.081    [  --  ]
[PD]
[PD] [  --  ]     0.056     -0.087     -0.006      0.013      0.013    [  --  ]
[PD]
[PD]                                    0.269
[PD]
[PD] Best=0.000, worst=0.275, min=-0.112, max=0.275, mu=0.005, sigma=0.068, energy=0.061

I didn't bother with G31 A (depth-mapped Z correction) because I only needed to see some rough accuracy numbers.

G29 (probe calibration) returned a repeatability of 0.0188 (19 microns). That's the same I got on the old printer.

Radius offsets are really low, which is good. Angle offsets are all over 1 degree, which is higher than expected. Virtual shimming numbers are also high. However, this should be taken as a grain of salt because the glass isn't being held down by anything at all. The upshot (for me) is that almost all of the print surface has a deflection of less than 100 microns, meaning that a 0.1mm-layer-height object could have its first layer put down without the G31 A calibration.

[626Pilot]

If you want to drill your snowflake without dealing with a compass and protractor, and if you happen to have a CNC machine, here are the hole positions (origin of CNC machine is at lower left):

G0 X2.8611 Y7.7008
(then drill)
G0 X7.9946
(then drill)
G0 X5.4279 Y3.2550
(then drill)

Bit size: 5/32"

Positions were worked out in Sketchup using SeeMe's STL of their snowflake, a simplified mockup of the assembled frame, and ccavanaugh's heated bed insulator bracket STL. I lined up the snowflake with the front (part that's notched for LED wiring, with the "tongue" sticking out) touching the CNC's X axis. The left side of the snowflake was touching the CNC's Y axis. My router's bit is too wide, so I just jogged it down until it barely touched the snowflake, enough to mark it. I did the actual drilling with a power drill. The holes will need to be countersunk on top, and you can use countersunk #6-32 screws and nylon locknuts.

Test fit was successful!

[Renha]

files up on repables.com http://repables.com/r/605" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

thank you!

[bvandiepenbos]

MAX METAL Frame "upside down build"

[ZakRabbit]

Somebody's been reading my mind! I was reading JFettig's build thread and it made me start to think... Plus, I'm using a separate power supply and a SSR for the bed which will make it somewhat simpler except for mains power to the psu. What is your plan to clear the belt tensioners?

[626Pilot]

The pulleys ride well below the tops of their risers, so you can run it upside down without any trouble. It occurs to me that it would make it easier to run a fleet of these, because you could have a row on the floor and another on shelving above it.

My build is pretty much done. It was REEEEEALLY easy compared to building the Max V1. You don't have to mess around with dozens of fiddly little spacers and support struts.

What's everyone's favorite wire crimps? I've been using butt connectors, which are cool because the name is funny, but also a pain to crimp. Is there something that just bites into the wire with metal jaws, or some other solution? I bought connectors that are the right size for my wire gauge, but I still have to use both hands to crimp them reliably.

[ZakRabbit]

The pulleys ride well below the tops of their risers, so you can run it upside down without any trouble.

My build is pretty much done. It was REEEEEALLY easy compared to building the Max V1. You don't have to mess around with dozens of fiddly little spacers and support struts.

What's everyone's favorite wire crimps? I've been using butt connectors, which are cool because the name is funny, but also a pain to crimp. Is there something that just bites into the wire with metal jaws, or some other solution? I bought connectors that are the right size for my wire gauge, but I still have to use both hands to crimp them reliably.

Good to know on the pulleys. I'm from a racing background so whenever feasible, I'm a solder/heat shrink guy. If I must use crimps, I prefer the plain metal ones from somewhere like West Marine then overlaid with... heat shrink, especially if it's got the glue on the inside which keeps air away from the bare metal as well as a small addition to the mechanical coupling.

[bvandiepenbos]

I case anybody is interested here are files for the electronics mounting plate for my "upside down" build.
Laser cut from 1/4" thick acrylic. Install after the frame is built by turning plate to "lock" it into slots of frame sides.
For Smoothie Board electronics.

MAX METAL Frame (Brians top smoothie electronics mounting plate).pdf

(22.83 KiB) Downloaded 362 times

MAX METAL Frame (Brians top smoothie electronics mounting plate).dxf

(457.61 KiB) Downloaded 272 times

Also file for Onyx HPB mounting plate. Made from 2 layers of laser cut 1/4" melamine wood sandwiched together with 4-40 flat head screws and t-nuts.
The lower plate fits snugly into the triangle of frame sides for location.
The whole assembly is held down with 6 magnets pressed into frame and 6 slugs of steel in the melamine.
Since it is held down by magnets I wonder if FSR's could be sandwiched between frame and HPB melamine plate?
You could also thread holes in frame and hold it down with screws.

MAX METAL Frame (Brians Onyx HPB mounting plate).pdf

(8.84 KiB) Downloaded 339 times

MAX METAL Frame (Brians Onyx HPB mounting plate).dxf

(121.78 KiB) Downloaded 258 times

[bvandiepenbos]

What's everyone's favorite wire crimps? I've been using butt connectors, which are cool because the name is funny, but also a pain to crimp. Is there something that just bites into the wire with metal jaws, or some other solution? I bought connectors that are the right size for my wire gauge, but I still have to use both hands to crimp them reliably.

You may want to try this nifty new wiring block http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
"YJ-PAD" Wiring distribution block...
-No crimping wires
-No soldering
-Simple, just press down tab, insert wire and your done.
-Easy to re-configure or add to
-RELIABLE spring cage connections, better than screw terminals that can loosen over time
-Spring cage connectors are used in the high vibration and stress RV environment

[ZakRabbit]

Thank you Brian! On the heated bed, I was thinking of something similar; milling pockets into the rails to seat the FSR's themselves and posts with a slip fit to those pockets to sit atop the FSR's. I'm just not sure how deep I can go vs. how deep such a pocket would need to be.
That circuit block is very intriguing, I have to change my thinking about wiring; too much time building/repairing auto wiring. I'm not 100% clear on the pins in the middle though, are they in parallel or in series with the wires they're inline with? (as in is it required to have a jumper in between for current to flow, or is it a handy place to tie different circuits together?)

[bvandiepenbos]

The jumpers do not connect spring cage terminals they are a place to pick up power, add led indicator, distribute power to other connections, etc.
Connection goes thru without jumper

[AEK]

Thank you very much ccavanaugh for your hard work and sharing of your files!

Greatly appreciated!

Andre

[626Pilot]

You may want to try this nifty new wiring block http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
"YJ-PAD" Wiring distribution block...
-No crimping wires
-No soldering
-Simple, just press down tab, insert wire and your done.
-Easy to re-configure or add to
-RELIABLE spring cage connections, better than screw terminals that can loosen over time
-Spring cage connectors are used in the high vibration and stress RV environment

I decided to get six of these for my three extruders: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8841t31/=ycudo5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Basically the same thing, four wires per box, $2.49 each. If the wire gauge is >20, I'll just fold the end of the wire back on itself to make it fat enough. I'll probably do some printable mounts to affix these to the rails, with strain relief for the wires. They're designed to be mounted on DIN rails.

I also ordered a Viki 2 for the panel. If it works well, I'll be using them on all 3 production machines. Not cheap at $75, but they're SO PRETTY!!!

[ZakRabbit]

I saw this and thought of you, 626Pilot as you were saying something about cable clips: https://pinshape.com/items/7138-3d-prin ... cable-clip

[ZakRabbit]

This seems to be the repository for the Metal Max kit, so with many thanks to Brian for posting his files earlier, I will add these for those who wish to use them as they may. I'm planning on machining it out of aluminum as I work in a CNC machine shop.

[bvandiepenbos]

You may want to try this nifty new wiring block http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=25" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
"YJ-PAD" Wiring distribution block...
-No crimping wires
-No soldering
-Simple, just press down tab, insert wire and your done.
-Easy to re-configure or add to
-RELIABLE spring cage connections, better than screw terminals that can loosen over time
-Spring cage connectors are used in the high vibration and stress RV environment

I decided to get six of these for my three extruders: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8841t31/=ycudo5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Basically the same thing, four wires per box, $2.49 each. If the wire gauge is >20, I'll just fold the end of the wire back on itself to make it fat enough. I'll probably do some printable mounts to affix these to the rails, with strain relief for the wires. They're designed to be mounted on DIN rails.

I also ordered a Viki 2 for the panel. If it works well, I'll be using them on all 3 production machines. Not cheap at $75, but they're SO PRETTY!!!

I have used those wiring blocks from McMaster, they work fine but are really bulky. Make sure you position it in location that has easy access to top... the spring terminal tabs press in REALLY hard, best to use a screwdriver blade.
By the way, they have though holes for mounting. I think I used M3 screws. you don't need any special bracket.
I don't like how big they are, plus it only has 4 connections.
And it does not have the row of jumper pins like the YJ board.

[626Pilot]

I have used those wiring blocks from McMaster, they work fine but are really bulky. Make sure you position it in location that has easy access to top... the spring terminal tabs press in REALLY hard, best to use a screwdriver blade.
By the way, they have though holes for mounting. I think I used M3 screws. you don't need any special bracket.
I don't like how big they are, plus it only has 4 connections.
And it does not have the row of jumper pins like the YJ board.

It's weird that they give you two holes per circuit. They could've done EIGHT circuits in the same footprint! Anyway, it's hella cheap compared to the other one. I don't need to pick off from the signal if I'm just wiring steppers, so no big deal. However, there are holes that go down through the crossbars, and it looks like you could put an M2.5 screw through the holes if you needed to tee in. (M3 is too big, M2 too small... don't have any M2.5...) The mounting holes are recessed, so they hold a standard M3 pan-head screw flush. All in all, pretty decent for under three bucks each!

Before, I was using either butt splices with heat shrink around them, or just ferrules that I would crimp and then flood with solder & then cover everything with heat shrink. I hate dealing with solder. Even though I have a solder fume fan with a carbon filter, it's still nasty toxic crap. I can't wait for decent 3D printed electronics so I can retire my solder station.

[Eaglezsoar]

I have used those wiring blocks from McMaster, they work fine but are really bulky. Make sure you position it in location that has easy access to top... the spring terminal tabs press in REALLY hard, best to use a screwdriver blade.
By the way, they have though holes for mounting. I think I used M3 screws. you don't need any special bracket.
I don't like how big they are, plus it only has 4 connections.
And it does not have the row of jumper pins like the YJ board.

It's weird that they give you two holes per circuit. They could've done EIGHT circuits in the same footprint! Anyway, it's hella cheap compared to the other one. I don't need to pick off from the signal if I'm just wiring steppers, so no big deal. However, there are holes that go down through the crossbars, and it looks like you could put an M2.5 screw through the holes if you needed to tee in. (M3 is too big, M2 too small... don't have any M2.5...) The mounting holes are recessed, so they hold a standard M3 pan-head screw flush. All in all, pretty decent for under three bucks each!

Before, I was using either butt splices with heat shrink around them, or just ferrules that I would crimp and then flood with solder & then cover everything with heat shrink. I hate dealing with solder. Even though I have a solder fume fan with a carbon filter, it's still nasty toxic crap. I can't wait for decent 3D printed electronics so I can retire my solder station.

+1

[Renha]

received package, it's awesome, thanks! Started build. It would be with enclosure, I'll post designed parts when progress would be made

[626Pilot]

I ordered the Trick Laser all-aluminum platform and carriage mounts, thinking that they might help improve my positional accuracy. Previously, when depth-mapping the print surface, I got an energy of ~0.06 with my MAX Metal. That means that the average difference in height between the center and all tested points was around 60 microns.

Here are the kinematics with the all-aluminum parts (zero injection molded stuff from the old Rostock MAX):

Code: Select all

[PK] Current kinematic settings:
[PK]           Arm length: 270.883
[PK]         Delta radius: 134.443
[PK]      Endstop offsets: {-0.082, 0.000, -0.148}
[PK] Radius offsets (ABC): {0.000, 0.040, 0.040}
[PK]  Angle offsets (DEF): {-0.087, 0.121, -0.041}
[PK]     Virtual shimming: {-0.090, -0.187, -0.075}, vector={0.001, -0.000, 1.000}, d=0.123, Enabled
[PK] Depth (Z) correction: Disabled

Some of these figures are telling:
Radius offsets - RMax v1: 0, 0.69084, 0.69084 / MAX Metal: 0, 0.04, 0.04
Angle offsets - RMax v1: 0.04096, -0.06179, -0.54572 / MAX Metal: -0.087, 0.121, -0.041

This represents a significant improvement! The angle offsets show a substantial average improvement, and the radius offsets are so tight that the 40 microns could be partially due to probe repeatability.

I also noticed that the energy measurement (average Z error of all points vs. center) went from 0.062 (or so) to 0.042 when I installed the all-metal platform kit:

Code: Select all

[PD]                                    0.100
[PD]
[PD] [ 0.039]     0.013     -0.013     -0.044     -0.087     -0.075    [-0.075]
[PD]
[PD] [-0.161]    -0.025      0.013     -0.006     -0.044     -0.075    [ 0.000]
[PD]
[PD]  -0.019     -0.100     -0.019      0.000     -0.025     -0.069      0.056
[PD]
[PD] [-0.008]     0.000      0.006     -0.019     -0.025     -0.056    [ 0.102]
[PD]
[PD] [ 0.207]     0.075      0.006     -0.050     -0.087     -0.038    [ 0.227]
[PD]
[PD]                                    0.019
[PD]
[PD] Best=0.000, worst=0.227, min=-0.161, max=0.227, mu=-0.005, sigma=0.066, energy=0.042

I never saw an energy this low (ideal energy is 0) before installing that kit. My guess is that it's down to the U-joint mounts. If you use TL arms with SeeMeCNC's injection-molded U-joint yokes and effector platform, you have to do all kinds of fiddly stuff with washers and nuts to get everything aligned just right (or close to it). The CNC-cut aluminum parts in Brian's kit require no such thing. Everything screws together directly and self-aligns, so there is no opportunity for the builder (me) to introduce additional error. I like that!!!

The improvement I see with Brian's kit (just the platform and U-joint yokes that go on the carriages) is about 20 microns on this particular machine. That might not seem like a lot, but positional accuracy is VERY important to me.

Another important thing: Time and effort. I will be using this kit with all of the MAX Metal printers I will build in the future (1 down, 2 to go). I like the idea of not having to fiddle with those axles, and having to figure out how to get the alignment just so. To my mind, this is "how things should be." To me, self-aligning construction is WAY better.

[bubbasnow]

I ordered the Trick Laser all-aluminum platform and carriage mounts, thinking that they might help improve my positional accuracy. Previously, when depth-mapping the print surface, I got an energy of ~0.06 with my MAX Metal. That means that the average difference in height between the center and all tested points was around 60 microns.

Here are the kinematics with the all-aluminum parts (zero injection molded stuff from the old Rostock MAX):

Code: Select all

[PK] Current kinematic settings:
[PK]           Arm length: 270.883
[PK]         Delta radius: 134.443
[PK]      Endstop offsets: {-0.082, 0.000, -0.148}
[PK] Radius offsets (ABC): {0.000, 0.040, 0.040}
[PK]  Angle offsets (DEF): {-0.087, 0.121, -0.041}
[PK]     Virtual shimming: {-0.090, -0.187, -0.075}, vector={0.001, -0.000, 1.000}, d=0.123, Enabled
[PK] Depth (Z) correction: Disabled

Some of these figures are telling:
Radius offsets - RMax v1: 0, 0.69084, 0.69084 / MAX Metal: 0, 0.04, 0.04
Angle offsets - RMax v1: 0.04096, -0.06179, -0.54572 / MAX Metal: -0.087, 0.121, -0.041

This represents a significant improvement! The angle offsets show a substantial average improvement, and the radius offsets are so tight that the 40 microns could be partially due to probe repeatability.

I also noticed that the energy measurement (average Z error of all points vs. center) went from 0.062 (or so) to 0.042 when I installed the all-metal platform kit:

Code: Select all

[PD]                                    0.100
[PD]
[PD] [ 0.039]     0.013     -0.013     -0.044     -0.087     -0.075    [-0.075]
[PD]
[PD] [-0.161]    -0.025      0.013     -0.006     -0.044     -0.075    [ 0.000]
[PD]
[PD]  -0.019     -0.100     -0.019      0.000     -0.025     -0.069      0.056
[PD]
[PD] [-0.008]     0.000      0.006     -0.019     -0.025     -0.056    [ 0.102]
[PD]
[PD] [ 0.207]     0.075      0.006     -0.050     -0.087     -0.038    [ 0.227]
[PD]
[PD]                                    0.019
[PD]
[PD] Best=0.000, worst=0.227, min=-0.161, max=0.227, mu=-0.005, sigma=0.066, energy=0.042

I never saw an energy this low (ideal energy is 0) before installing that kit. My guess is that it's down to the U-joint mounts. If you use TL arms with SeeMeCNC's injection-molded U-joint yokes and effector platform, you have to do all kinds of fiddly stuff with washers and nuts to get everything aligned just right (or close to it). The CNC-cut aluminum parts in Brian's kit require no such thing. Everything screws together directly and self-aligns, so there is no opportunity for the builder (me) to introduce additional error. I like that!!!

The improvement I see with Brian's kit (just the platform and U-joint yokes that go on the carriages) is about 20 microns on this particular machine. That might not seem like a lot, but positional accuracy is VERY important to me.

Another important thing: Time and effort. I will be using this kit with all of the MAX Metal printers I will build in the future (1 down, 2 to go). I like the idea of not having to fiddle with those axles, and having to figure out how to get the alignment just so. To my mind, this is "how things should be." To me, self-aligning construction is WAY better.

did you upgrade the arms to 300 or 325 instead of the stock 269?

[forrie]

did you upgrade the arms to 300 or 325 instead of the stock 269?

All these toys from tricklaser are going to send me to the poor house....lol

[626Pilot]

did you upgrade the arms to 300 or 325 instead of the stock 269?

Nah, I just bought a new 269mm set recently. I'll give the 300mm ones a shot when I build my next MAX Metal.

Brian should put his web server on a VPS or something. It's slow sometimes.

[bubbasnow]

so what is every ones lead time been for this?